MEP-802a fuel rail

[Guyfang]

I 100% agree.The 800 series are awesome but for reliability I would chose a 000 series. The only thing I wish the 002 or 003 had was an overvoltage fault, because when the regulators fail it sends 140+ into the house.

Refer to my statement, "there are a lot of smart cats in this forum". Start a new thread, ask if anyone has done that, and if not, ask if anyone here might be able to gin one up. I could here, but it would work on 220 Volt, 50 Hertz/400 Volt, 50 Hertz. I know for a fact, that such things as an over voltage relay exist. I have installed them in any number of applications here in Germany.

 

[jamawieb]

Today, I carefully made sure everything moved correctly with the fuel rail, without taking the front cover off. Then I carefully put the injector pumps in, making sure the pins were in the fuel rail, like Perry mentioned earlier. After everything was in place, I hit the starter and after a couple of tries she started right up. I had to rotate the pumps clockwise about a .15 of an inch so the motor would start faster but after that everything is good.

 

[fastbackperry]

Super! Super! Super! I received my new on/off shaft lever today and am headed out to the shop soon to hopefully have the same success you had! Take care!

 

[Guyfang]

You both are sounding like things are looking good! Keep it up.

 

[fastbackperry]

OK. Not as good of luck as Jamawieb. Put start stop lever shaft assembly in properly. Put front cover on, radiator in, added coolant, etc. to the point of starting it. Still no go. Injector pumps are squirting at injectors. Pulled exhaust and then injectors. Injectors came right out. Cleaned them. Hooked them up to their fuel line and they had great spray out of the three holes in their tips. The engine nearly started when I had each injector out to test this. Stuffed a towel in intake to keep it from running. Great I'm thinking. It will run when back together. Put injectors back in with the heated copper washer technique and it almost starts but doesn't quite catch no mater where I have the throttle set. It seems to have good compression but maybe it doesn't have enough as it's getting fuel. Cracked the injector lines for good measure as well to get any air out. I pulled off valve covers and it looks great in there but when the piston is at TDC the valves are really tight. I can loosen up on the rocker retainer nut and feel the valve retain go up telling me the valve is not fully seated. Checked this on multiple valves when they were suppose to be closed. Seems strange and valves are not adjustable. They are hydraulic so maybe when turning over they leak down enough to allow the valve to close. I've read that a person should wait an hour before turning engine over after loosening rocker nut as lifter will extend and force valve into piston. Anyway, that didn't happen. Just strange that it wouldn't start at first then started and stopped half a dozen times then nothing leading to all the above. I could take a compression check but I've never done that on a diesel. Seemed to have a bunch when injector was out but that doesn't mean anything without a gauge as we all know diesels have way more compression than gas engines. Any thoughts and help is much appreciated. Thank you.

 

[fastbackperry]

I went out and turned engine over by hand with fan. There just isn't much compression if at all and it's the darn rockers being tight not allowing the valve up so that it can seat and seal for cylinder compression.

 

[Guyfang]

Fastback,

First, if you want to turn the engine over without starting, use S-10, the Dead Crank Switch. No need to stuff rags into the intake. That's what the S-10 is for. Well, that and when you place it in the OFF position, you can not turn the engine over at the S-1, start switch. Its a safety feature. Keeps someone from starting the thing when you have your head or arm stuck in the works.

Second, did you adjust the start/stop lever? Dont forget that. Is a step needed to adjust each fuel rail and start/stop lever. Its in the book. There is also a procedure in the file I put in SS for all the manuals you need to work on generators. Take a look at that. You should be able to disconnect the start/stop lever and control it by hand. But be very careful about that. Chew on that a while, and see if there is something you can use.

Guy

 

[fastbackperry]

Yes. I know of the S-10 switch but the fuel stop start lever needed to be on in order to let fuel to the IP's and injectors to see what kind of spray pattern I was getting which is great.

On the start stop lever. When solenoid is left off it rotates to fuel on CW. Turning CCW will turn fuel off. I will look at the adjustment procedure in the manuals. I did see the one at the very end of one of the manuals talking about how if turned to far CCW the fuel rail would stick keeping the IP's off. I definitely don't have that as I observed that when the front cover was off and rotated the lever CCW till just before this binding, made a mark on the block/case for later adjustment of screws to.

More and more this is a compression issue to me. The observed easily rotated engine by hand using the fan and the valves not fully closing are resulting in low compression. We all know with a diesel all that's needed is fuel and compression. I have the fuel but low compression and I don't think it's a worn out engine. I can hear at exhaust and intake air squeezing by either valve when I rotate the engine over with fan. I have a feeling if I loosened the valve rocker nuts a bit I'd suddenly not be able to rotate the engine over past a compression stroke at all. Something is up. Perhaps Jamawieb would try turning his engine over by hand and give his observation??? Anyway. Strange. Geometry at rockers is out. Feel like finding some thin washers or shimstock to put under the rocker fulcrums where they tighten down on head bolt to raise the rocker up till I have where the push rod can turn by fingers/hand when tight. That's normally how hydraulic lifters are adjusted. Anyway. It's a compression/head/all the valves issue. Thanks for any feedback. Perry

 

[jamawieb]

Yes. I know of the S-10 switch but the fuel stop start lever needed to be on in order to let fuel to the IP's and injectors to see what kind of spray pattern I was getting which is great.

On the start stop lever. When solenoid is left off it rotates to fuel on CW. Turning CCW will turn fuel off. I will look at the adjustment procedure in the manuals. I did see the one at the very end of one of the manuals talking about how if turned to far CCW the fuel rail would stick keeping the IP's off. I definitely don't have that as I observed that when the front cover was off and rotated the lever CCW till just before this binding, made a mark on the block/case for later adjustment of screws to.

More and more this is a compression issue to me. The observed easily rotated engine by hand using the fan and the valves not fully closing are resulting in low compression. We all know with a diesel all that's needed is fuel and compression. I have the fuel but low compression and I don't think it's a worn out engine. I can hear at exhaust and intake air squeezing by either valve when I rotate the engine over with fan. I have a feeling if I loosened the valve rocker nuts a bit I'd suddenly not be able to rotate the engine over past a compression stroke at all. Something is up. Perhaps Jamawieb would try turning his engine over by hand and give his observation??? Anyway. Strange. Geometry at rockers is out. Feel like finding some thin washers or shimstock to put under the rocker fulcrums where they tighten down on head bolt to raise the rocker up till I have where the push rod can turn by fingers/hand when tight. That's normally how hydraulic lifters are adjusted. Anyway. It's a compression/head/all the valves issue. Thanks for any feedback. Perry

Perry, I actually tried rotating my engine over by the fan but it would only move about 10 degrees before it had to much compression to move. So I took a socket and rotated it 1 full revolution and it was pretty difficult.

 

[fastbackperry]

Thanks. It is what I suspected as mentioned. Compression. Those valves. I read in a TM that the push rods are to turn by hand when down of cam lobe. Not ever. Waiting for someone that knows about these engines to maybe point out what's going on. Thanks.

 

[fastbackperry]

You have any ideas Guyfang? The valves can close but only when the rocker nut is loosened. It's like there should be shim washers under the fulcrum that tightens against the head stud that that is the rocker stud. Nothing like that in the TM's. I'm stumped and not many if any people on this site know much about these Lister Petter powered generators. Thanks for any help.

 

[Guyfang]

Take a compression tester and hook it up. Could this set have bad rings? Stuck rings? Have been reassembled incorrectly? If you can turn it over by hand, somethings wrong. Valves or rings. can not be anything else. I wish I could be standing there with you. You said you had positive pressure on the crank case. Do you know what a water manometer is? Easy to make, hook it up to the oil dip stick tube. That tells you how much pressure there is.