- 737
- 14
- 18
- Location
- Bothell, WA
And that pump... Pulled it, and had the pump all but come apart in my hand. The top of the pump was barely hand tight.
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MEP-803a Crankcase full of fuel...
- Thread starter rhurey
- Start date
- 737
- 14
- 18
- Location
- Bothell, WA
So, the naive question...
This as simple as tightening everything up? I'm likely the yahoo who loosened it back in March when I first got it and was trying to bleed the fuel lines. Cause I have this memory of thinking "That was the wrong thing to wrench on."
Or did I manage to mess up the pump?
This as simple as tightening everything up? I'm likely the yahoo who loosened it back in March when I first got it and was trying to bleed the fuel lines. Cause I have this memory of thinking "That was the wrong thing to wrench on."
Or did I manage to mess up the pump?
You may be lucky and be able to tighten everything back together. I would imagine, that the plunger seal is damaged since diesel leaked into the crankcase. If it were me, I would go ahead and replace it because you don't want a slow leak of diesel in the crankcase, to thin the oil again. You'll be kicking yourself when you really need the generator but can't use it because of that pump has completely failed or you find out it's leaking again. Make sure you check your other pumps to make sure everything is tight.
- 737
- 14
- 18
- Location
- Bothell, WA
Ok, now I'm confused...
From the TM:
If original shim thickness is not known or if fuel pump is being replaced, fuel pump must be timed.
Ok, so I'd need to time the pump...
But later in the TM:
3-14. FUEL INJECTION PUMP TIMING.
Each fuel injection pump is timed individually during assembly at factory and when an existing or new fuel injection pump is installed, it is only necessary to reinstall existing shim pack or a new pack of same thickness as original.
So which is it? Looking at the timing instructions, I'd say just throw the old shim pack back in and be done.
From the TM:
If original shim thickness is not known or if fuel pump is being replaced, fuel pump must be timed.
Ok, so I'd need to time the pump...
But later in the TM:
3-14. FUEL INJECTION PUMP TIMING.
Each fuel injection pump is timed individually during assembly at factory and when an existing or new fuel injection pump is installed, it is only necessary to reinstall existing shim pack or a new pack of same thickness as original.
So which is it? Looking at the timing instructions, I'd say just throw the old shim pack back in and be done.
Last edited:
rustystud
Well-known member
- 9,259
- 2,945
- 113
- Location
- Woodinville, Washington
Your pretty safe just using the original shims from the old pump. If you really wanted to get technical then you would re-measure everything with this new pump. If it doesn't run right after you reinstall the pump then that's the time to go back and re-measure everything.
- 16,668
- 23,815
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
If you used a compression checker with a rubber end, just trying to hold it into the injector hole, it would blow your tester and hand up a few inches. diesels have a much higher level of compression. So yeah, you need a screw in tester.
- 16,668
- 23,815
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
We never did anything else other then reinstall the old shims. Don't worry about it.
Yes, use the old shims and move on.
- 737
- 14
- 18
- Location
- Bothell, WA
This, that may slow things down a bit.
New pump... Grumble.
New pump... Grumble.
- 16,668
- 23,815
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
You didnt get the right pump. What part number/NSN did you use to order the new one?
- 737
- 14
- 18
- Location
- Bothell, WA
Onan 186-6151
The vendor lists this as a MEP-803a fuel metering pump. Picture is of the right one.
The vendor lists this as a MEP-803a fuel metering pump. Picture is of the right one.
- 16,668
- 23,815
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
Maybe you can change the nipple, for the fitting. But the bottom pump is not what I know from my 8+years of working on the 802 and 803 engine.
- 737
- 14
- 18
- Location
- Bothell, WA
Nope. And that worries me about the rest of the specs.
I reached out to the vendor, we'll see what the response is.
I reached out to the vendor, we'll see what the response is.
Korgoth1
New member
- 191
- 5
- 0
- Location
- radford, va
Some of those pumps are for the turbo model lpw4.
- 737
- 14
- 18
- Location
- Bothell, WA
Looks like that's injector pump is for the marine version of the engine...
While I work on getting that all straight, I figured I'd put everything back together and make sure I didn't screw anything else up.
Well, sure enough...
There some trick to getting the pump to slide into the fuel rack? I wound up pulling 2 pumps out, and putting one of them back end seems to always catch on the rack in some bad manner and put enough friction on it that it won't move. I've looked at the TM, and other than be gentle, I came away stumped.
While I work on getting that all straight, I figured I'd put everything back together and make sure I didn't screw anything else up.
Well, sure enough...
There some trick to getting the pump to slide into the fuel rack? I wound up pulling 2 pumps out, and putting one of them back end seems to always catch on the rack in some bad manner and put enough friction on it that it won't move. I've looked at the TM, and other than be gentle, I came away stumped.
Try a small mirror and look down into the hole where the injector pump goes so you can see how the rack moves. You have to move the shut off solenoid by hand to the right place so that the rack will be in the right position for the removal or install of the pumps. After I saw how the rack moved and how it looked with a mirror, it really helped with the install of pumps.
- 16,668
- 23,815
- 113
- Location
- Burgkunstadt, Germany
When you slide the injector pump in, without tightening it down, move the solenoid linkage back and forth a bit. If the injector pump moves back and forth with the motion from the linkage, its in the slot properly. If it only moves in one direction, its not in right. Have patience. Take your time. Sometimes this procedure went easy, and sometimes not. There is a tool, that gets hooked to the linkage, that centers the fuel rack and makes this whole deal easier.
- 737
- 14
- 18
- Location
- Bothell, WA
It's not a matter of getting the pin in the hole, or the slat in the rack. Once the pin is in the rack, something is binding the rack up and it's not moving anymore.
I got frustrated and went exploring with an inspection camera.
Here's a view of the back of the rack (governor end) where the stop solenoid hits it. At this point the rack is free and can move, see how far over the wear spot on the rack is.
And a view of that last pump sitting in the rack. Seems pretty low compared to the front two cylinders.
The back of the rack from another angle.
Just not sure what it's getting hung up on with either of the two pumps I pulled installed.
Oh, and pro tip: When you loose your balance getting up and are holding your wife's laptop... Don't reach for a radiator hose. Came close to pulling it right off.
I got frustrated and went exploring with an inspection camera.
Here's a view of the back of the rack (governor end) where the stop solenoid hits it. At this point the rack is free and can move, see how far over the wear spot on the rack is.
And a view of that last pump sitting in the rack. Seems pretty low compared to the front two cylinders.
The back of the rack from another angle.
Just not sure what it's getting hung up on with either of the two pumps I pulled installed.
Oh, and pro tip: When you loose your balance getting up and are holding your wife's laptop... Don't reach for a radiator hose. Came close to pulling it right off.
Attachments
It looks like you understand how everything works now so your getting the pumps into the rack. When you put the pumps in, do they fall all the way in, where they are flush with the block? Or do you have to put the hold downs on, to push them down? If the cam lube is at the highest point, it will not let the fuel pumps fall flush with the block without the hold downs in place and this will cause pin on the pump to rub the top of the block housing, making the friction you feel.