MEP-803A Pegs fuel gage all the way down past empty.

[jqc99]

I like the idea of using a spacer ring at the bottom to prevent it from touching the sides. I want to use the longer one so I'll have to make something similar so it doesn't hang up. Or I need to find one without the external float like the one the AMMPS uses as shown in post 5. Thank you for the help!

 

[maniatopoulosg]

Wema - 151323
That is 5.5 inches. Six is pushing it the way the top sags.
Google around for best deal.

Are there any differences between the 802 and the 803 fuel tanks? Will the 5.5 inch work on an 803?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Ray70]

Yes, tanks are different. Read posts 20 and 21.
You need an 8" for a 803 but you may need to put a little "spacer" on the bottom to prevent the float from touching the step in the tank.

 

[csheath]

I removed the strainer basket because it was corroding. I open the fuel cap and look inside. Problem solved.

 

[Ray70]

No picture.... what did you find inside??

 

[snider]

Yes, tanks are different. Read posts 20 and 21.
You need an 8" for a 803 but you may need to put a little "spacer" on the bottom to prevent the float from touching the step in the tank.

for the 803 instead of getting the 8" and making a spacer couldn't you get get a 7.5"? the link to the sending units list all different lengths. im having the same issue with my 803..

 

[dav5]

for the 803 instead of getting the 8" and making a spacer couldn't you get get a 7.5"? the link to the sending units list all different lengths. im having the same issue with my 803..

The spacer isn't to reduce the depth it is to prevent binding on the tank "step"you can see the step on the right hand side of the photo

 

[bosko]

The spacer isn't to reduce the depth it is to prevent binding on the tank "step"View attachment 820594you can see the step on the right hand side of the photo

Is the spacer so the float cannot go to the bottom of the rod?
I need to replace a couple of mine. As well.

 

[dav5]

Is the spacer so the float cannot go to the bottom of the rod?
I need to replace a couple of mine. As well.

The spacer is to prevent the float from binding on the step as it goes up and down with the fuel level

 

[Ray70]

Wow, what a great picture and what a clean tank!
Now everyone can see exactly what the ledge looks like and why you need a spacer on an 803!
Nice job.

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

I have used 3 or 4 of the 8.5" senders on the 803's. The float is very close to rubbing on the side of the step down portion of the tank, so I made a plastic ring slightly larger than the float diameter to press onto the very bottom of the rod to prevent the float from touching the side of the tank.
If you use the 5.5" you won't have any interference issues, but your gage reading will be off by probably 1/4 tank.
The SAE bolt pattern is such that you put the wires pointing to the right ( oil filter side of machine ) when looking at the tank to make the hole pattern line up.

Do you have a picture of this plastic ring or a item number of something that you use as the spacer

 

[Ray70]

Unfortunately it was home made. I cut a ring out of 1/8" rigid plastic just slightly larger diameter than the float.
Then drilled the a hole in the center tight enough to press the disc onto the end of the sender, then a little JB weld quick epoxy to secure it to the sender.
Initially I was going to use a rubber disc, but was worried the diesel would deteriorate the rubber over time, so I went with plastic.

 

[CimmonsGuy]

I just got done fixing one of my MEP-803A's that was randomly pegging the fuel gauge all the way to the left.
It was pegged down when I bought it, so I swapped in a known good gage out of another 803' and it seemed fine.
I load tested the machine for about an hour, then shut it down. Next time I looked at it the gage was stuck down again.
Turns out that what is happening is that if you have 24V+ on the power wire and 24V- on the wire going to the mounting bracket stud and you suddenly loose all resistance to ground on the sensor lead ( open circuit ) the gage will peg itself hard to the left and the needle will get stuck against the side of the gage body.
If you remove the gage and whack it against the palm of your hand , or something else... you can shake the needle loose and the gage should be fine.
In my case the sending unit inside the tank is dirty and seems to have multiple dead spots in it. It is currently soaking in cleaner and is about 90% functional now. Just 2 last dead spots that need more attention. Getting it out of the tank was a joy! Couldn't get it through the hole but found that removing the top half of the bracket and the top screw from the sensor body made it able to pull right out, no need to gut your arm wedged inside the tank!
If for some reason I can't get if to work 100% I know I saw a thread on here somewhere with a sender PN that is available on Amazon... if it comes to that.

Any idea what's causing the open circuit on the sensor lead. Mine is pegged to the left as we speak. It was reading half a tank. I filled it and next time I looked it was pegged.

 

[Ray70]

The rheostat on the sending unit inside the tank usually gets dead spots in it and once you loose continuity to ground, the gage goes haywire.