See page 284 of the TM for more instructions, but it says to use a feeler gauge of .010 inch thickness to check for clearance between the stator and rotor. Honestly, I'm pretty sure the clearance will be OK on it's own. I'm not certain you'll be able to recover a steel feeler gauge.
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MEP 831 FAQ for owners or potential buyers
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Dewie38
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Just trying to give you the benefit of my experience with these sets.
What I have explained would make it easier to install the rotor onto the engine.
This is how I've done it hundreds of times.
I do believe the TM is correct if you don't have a piece of plastic, if you have one it will be easier.
I don't believe the clearance will be ok on it's own, remember these are very strong magnets that will slam into the stator when trying to install it. The plastic keeps it from sticking to one side or the other.
What I have explained would make it easier to install the rotor onto the engine.
This is how I've done it hundreds of times.
I do believe the TM is correct if you don't have a piece of plastic, if you have one it will be easier.
I don't believe the clearance will be ok on it's own, remember these are very strong magnets that will slam into the stator when trying to install it. The plastic keeps it from sticking to one side or the other.
Maybe my post wasn't clear, I was trying to answer the question regarding the acceptable plastic thickness. Per the manual, it could be as thick as .010". I then expanded the answer as I can't see using a steel feeler because I don't know if one can withdraw it. Maybe if the feeler was brass it would be OK. I like your idea (beause I have seen how the stator will try to cock it's self) and have already "borrowed" some sheet protectors from work.
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I was looking for the fuel filter info and figured out that the fuel filter setup on the 831 is a Racor 120A with a R12T element.
If you have a unit missing the main fuel filter you can see what you need in the attached brochure.
Edit - This is an alternate for the WIX 33583 filter.
If you have a unit missing the main fuel filter you can see what you need in the attached brochure.
Edit - This is an alternate for the WIX 33583 filter.
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I stumbled upon the TM for the engine. Nice resource.
http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-9-2815-257-24.pdf
http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-9-2815-257-24.pdf
Landbarger
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Thanks for that TM, cdre.
Has anyone had trouble with a leaking oil pressure switch? I have a dripping leak from the plastic sensor part (not the metal adapter that threads into the block) and haven't had any luck finding it based on either the part number (SM-2B-15F) or NSN (5930-01-478-0122). The one I'm looking at can be seen on pages C-94 and C-95 of TM 9-6115-639-13P.
I'm hoping someone has cleared this hurdle before...
Has anyone had trouble with a leaking oil pressure switch? I have a dripping leak from the plastic sensor part (not the metal adapter that threads into the block) and haven't had any luck finding it based on either the part number (SM-2B-15F) or NSN (5930-01-478-0122). The one I'm looking at can be seen on pages C-94 and C-95 of TM 9-6115-639-13P.
I'm hoping someone has cleared this hurdle before...
robson1015
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I am assuming that the battery is needed to run this unit since it has an electric fuel pump. I am also assuming that the unit can be powered by the military slave cable. I don't think the unit will start and run without a power supply of some type. I have the mep 531a that will run without a battery or power source but I don't believe the mep 831a will run without a battery or power source because of the electric fuel pump, the fuel tank is below the engine and the warning lights etc. Some one mentioned a battery charger will run the unit but that is defeating the purpose of having a generator.
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A battery isn't required if the fuel system is otherwise primed. You can pull start the engine and as soon as it kicks off it will power up the fuel pumps. Just don't forget to turn on the main switch before starting the engine or you will run the fuel line dry and will have to refill it manually. Been there done that.
Also make sure you put the positive battery terminal on the insulating terminal that should be mounted to the front next to where the battery goes. That will keep you from grounding out the control voltage.
Also make sure you put the positive battery terminal on the insulating terminal that should be mounted to the front next to where the battery goes. That will keep you from grounding out the control voltage.
robson1015
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Thanx DieselAddict. How do you prime the fuel system ?? Do you just fill the tank and fill the fuel pump/seperater ?? Thanx for the response.
robson1015
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I saw a couple batteries on e-bay (RG-24-15A1), $155 + shipping was the best price. What is the advantage of the battery besides the crank start and glow plugs??
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The easy way is to connect batteries but if that isn't an option. 
You can start the engine by plumbing in a gravity feed tank to the mechanical fuel pump on the side of the engine. What I did was take a large syringe (sans needle) and stick it into the fuel line. I disconnected the line at the "T" fitting where the fuel return from the injector plumbs in. Pour some fuel in the syringe and let it drain down to the pump. It helps if someone holds everything so it doesn't make such a mess.
You may have to crack the fuel line at the injector if the high pressure side has air in it.
Once the engine is running the generator will power the pump to fill the lines and the fuel filter.
Under normal conditions there is plenty of fuel left in the line to start the engine for the next use.
You can start the engine by plumbing in a gravity feed tank to the mechanical fuel pump on the side of the engine. What I did was take a large syringe (sans needle) and stick it into the fuel line. I disconnected the line at the "T" fitting where the fuel return from the injector plumbs in. Pour some fuel in the syringe and let it drain down to the pump. It helps if someone holds everything so it doesn't make such a mess.
You may have to crack the fuel line at the injector if the high pressure side has air in it.
Once the engine is running the generator will power the pump to fill the lines and the fuel filter.
Under normal conditions there is plenty of fuel left in the line to start the engine for the next use.
robson1015
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Sorry about all the questions - just got my MEP-831A with 4 hours on it and I'm trying to educate myself a little.
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Reading through some of the threads here in this section on the 831 will give you a good start.
Download the manual and read the starting instructions. Put some fluids in it and give it a try. It should start up pretty easily.
Download the manual and read the starting instructions. Put some fluids in it and give it a try. It should start up pretty easily.
Landbarger
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Don't apologize robson, every question you ask is one someone else doesn't have to. IMO it's part of what makes this forum so helpful.
...on the other hand, it is always better to read first and then try to expand the envelope of information rather if at all possible.
...on the other hand, it is always better to read first and then try to expand the envelope of information rather if at all possible.
robson1015
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Thanx guys, I'm waitin on the fuel filter/separator(Racor) to get here in the mail and then I'll give it a go..
robson1015
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I've read the manual and everything I could find on here before I posted...thanx for the help
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You should be in pretty good shape when your parts arrive. Let us know how it goes.
Alternatively you can use a pair of motorcycle batteries in there.
I've also used a set of jumper cables from the batteries on my MEP003a to prime up the fuel system.
The Yanmar engines start pretty easily in moderately cold conditions. If its below freezing batteries are nice because you'll need to pull by hand it several times to get enough heat to kick it off. The intake heater shouldn't be needed unless the temps are below zero.
paraclete comes
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a battery heater would be nice lol, but that means you have power and thus no need for the generator lol.
robson1015
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Update on my mep-831a....2008
I got the fuel filter/water separator installed after filling with fuel. Bought two batteries and unit started right away. Starts very easily with pull start also. Everything functions as it should EXCEPT the fault indicator lights don't work. test/reset button does nothing. I suspect it needs a new fault indicator part # 29390. It is a brown box that has a wiring plug in the rear with all the fault indicator lights on the front. Any input on where I can find this unit?? I'm very happy with the MEP unit but the fault indicator is needed. Any help appreciated.
I got the fuel filter/water separator installed after filling with fuel. Bought two batteries and unit started right away. Starts very easily with pull start also. Everything functions as it should EXCEPT the fault indicator lights don't work. test/reset button does nothing. I suspect it needs a new fault indicator part # 29390. It is a brown box that has a wiring plug in the rear with all the fault indicator lights on the front. Any input on where I can find this unit?? I'm very happy with the MEP unit but the fault indicator is needed. Any help appreciated.