MEP002a questions

[2deuce]

Reading that some people fill the last filter with acetone and turn over the engine listening for the return flow to the tank, what if a thin lubricating oil was used in place of the acetone, or mixed with it? With the fuel pump pressurizing the IP, and pushing the oil into the IP, could I rock the engine back and forth slowly a small amount, then slowly turn it a full rotation?

Since I already turned over the engine a small amount would lube be better than only a solvent? It would have been better if I didn't turn the engine in the 1st place, but that is history.
I have a picture in my mind how this pump works, that could easily be wrong, but if the plunger has moved without breaking so far, working it in lube oil, (if oil can get to it as it moves) would be similar to having the pump in hand and moving, or tapping on the plunger?
Originally I moved the engine clockwise only, so if the plunger is not broken it should move back counterclockwise without damage. At least that is my logic.
What do you guys think?

I'm back from camping and looking for a good shortcut. It appears to me that taking the pump off at this point, has much less benefit than if I did it in the 1st place. Messing up the timing is possible, and will leave me questions not knowing if it is the pump, or the timing if it won't run. If it won't run after this, I would know it's the pump for sure.

Thanks

 

[Ray70]

I would not worry about lube. My experience has been that solvent is much better at dissolving any gum than oil is.
The clearances inside the pump are so tight that oil won't get into the needed areas anyway.
Once free, new diesel will provide the needed lubrication.
Because you rotated the motor clockwise does not mean it will rotate counterclockwise without damage, that's not how old diesel gum works.

Get some acetone or Berryman's B12 carb cleaner into the pump and let is sit several days.
After several days has passed, Remove the big nut in the center of the pump, remove the 5/8" 12 point cap below that and remove the delivery valve and holder.
You should have cleaner leaking out through the center of the pump if you had it filled good.
This will now expose the end of the plunger. take a brass punch or wooden dowel and a hammer and tap on the plunger to see if it moves inward at all.
Now get a good flashlight and look very closely at the tip of the plunger while you rotate the motor slowly by hand.

The plunger should rotate at 1/2 the speed you are turning the motor and it should slowly move in and out about 1/4" once every revolution of the engine.
If it moves outward but not back in, tap it lightly with the brass punch / dowel again and see if it moves back.
Repeat until it plunges in and out freely.
If the plunger is not rotating as you turn the engine you're done with this step and the IP has to come out for inspection.

 

[2deuce]

I filled the last filter with Seafoam(I think that is comparable to Berrymans), bled the air from the line to the pump, and turned on the pump to build pressure. I turn the pump on occasionally to try keep pressure on the IP. This is the only way I can see to get product into the pump. I had Seafoam on hand, so that is what I used. I will check the plunger for movement next Monday.
Thanks

 

[Ray70]

I wouldn't worry too much about cycling the pump occasionally because the IP has an open return line back to the tank so you can't really put any pressure on the cleaner, but if you run the pumps too much you will cycle all your seafoam through the IP and into the tank and then fill the IP with Diesel instead.
Just get it in there and let it sit and do it's magic.

 

[Tinstar]

SeaFoam is what I used successfully on mine to flood the IP and soak the internals.
I continue to use it in the fuel and also add two-cycle oil to keep it happy

Ray70’s method of bringing the IP back to life worked for me perfectly.

His advice (and others!) helped me save my 002A.

 

[2deuce]

Ray,
I took off the 1" cap, and it had liquid dripping out, but the 5/8 bolt is very tight. What is that torqued to? I will need a breaker bar with a cheater to remove it and I'm reluctant to put that much force on it.

I'm spraying it with penetrant hoping it might help. Can I cause damage by forcing it out, besides the obvious thread stripping/bolt breaking possibility?

Thanks

 

[Ray70]

Well, they can sometimes be very tight, but penetrating oil won't help at all because you'll never have rust in there.... if you do you have bigger problems!
usually a 1/2" drive breaker bar is plenty, no need for an additional cheater bar. As for torque, the TM is your best friend, it's all right there

 

[2deuce]

I finally got back to this and removed the delivery valve holder. It was tight, but I saw where it should be at 70-80 ft-lbs so I wasn't worried too much at how tight it was. All of the parts, and delivery valve stayed in the holder. There is a small button in front of the delivery valve when the holder is installed. That button moves in and out when I push on it. I didn't turn the engine, I only pushed on it with my finger nail. It would push in and come back out on it's own. Does this signify that everything is ok with the pump, and after putting things back together it is safe to attempt a start?

Thanks

 

[2deuce]

Upon looking at those parts again the delivery valve stayed in the pump, and the button was protruding through the delivery valve. The spring was what stayed in the holder. I put the holder and spring back in the pump only hand tight waiting for your advice.
Thanks

 

[Chainbreaker]

Upon looking at those parts again the delivery valve stayed in the pump, and the button was protruding through the delivery valve. The spring was what stayed in the holder. I put the holder and spring back in the pump only hand tight waiting for your advice.
Thanks

Sounds encouraging...however, I haven't ever had to perform this test on any of my gensets IJ Pumps... yet that is, knock-on-wood! So, I can't really comment on what you are seeing or experiencing.

Though Ray's suggestion up above was to: "This will now expose the end of the plunger. take a brass punch or wooden dowel and a hammer and tap on the plunger to see if it moves inward at all. Now get a good flashlight and look very closely at the tip of the plunger while you rotate the motor slowly by hand."

If you need further guidance or have questions perhaps @Ray70 or others with experience doing this procedure can provide additional comment/direction on how to proceed.