Mraps on the front

[m-35tom]

you need a new axle with splines on both ends. i have 'thought' about making a viscous coupling for the rear driveshaft.

 

[peashooter]

i think you may find that each truck has it's own issues. the way the old springs has settled has something to do with the change is caster over a new truck. i had to simply swap the perches side to side which reversed them. (with new holes for the locating pin i think) it took that much change to get the steering to return to center.

I think you might be right. Gringletaube and I just recently learned that there are a couple different spring seats out there. It appears most are about a 4 degree shim.... but some are 8-9 degree. So the generic method of removing 5/32 (the gringletaube method) is intended for the 4 degree shim.

 

[bones1]

Tom is correct. Overson will sell a double splined axle and one hub, install on the front rear, drivers side. I am still looking for some Milemarker hubs at a decent price, called the factory they have 72 sets in stock # 11167-01. I just think the Milemarkers look like they belong on the truck.
Now i am wondering what angle my caster is after that post, what's a good way you would check it?.

 

[gringeltaube]

..................Now i am wondering what angle my caster is after that post, what's a good way you would check it?.

.... probably the same as before that post.......? And since you said 80% better - after mods., I may guess that you are somewhere in between +3º and +4º.

You'll need an accurate protractor and maybe a straightedge - possibly a third hand, too, to measure that angle yourself. For the instrument I prefer the classic Starrett w/rule and bubble; but a good digital one will do as well.....
Find a nice horizontal spot to park your (empty) truck, with the front wheels straight ahead. Then, on the pass. side steering knuckle, scrape/clean to bare metal the top sleeve cover plate and place the instrument (eventually on top of straight edge) - as exactly as possible, in longitudinal direction, referred to vehicle. Take average from several measurements.

On the drivers side knuckle, the machined mating surface of the steering arm slightly extends over the king pin sleeve-plate - enough to hold a straightedge against it and place the protractor on top; again, oriented longitudinally.
Measure, read, note... more than once; then compare both side's results: difference should be 0º to 1/2 degree, maximum. Average between both sides is your CASTER ANGLE...!


G.

 

[peashooter]

Now that winter appears over, I took yesterday off work to finish painting all the wheels and adjusting the brakes. Here are some pics of my 109A3. The only unique things I did due to the wheels were modify the spring shims (Gringletaube mod) from a 4 degree to a 1 degree angle (cant remember what that puts the caster at) steering is actually better than with the NDTs (tight turns are certainly easier), and no wondering. Also put some wheels on my 105a2 trailer. I have material to make new fenders but for now I just cut part of the fenders off so the lip wont dig into the wheels on a small to med bump. Finally I think the Rear mud flaps on 109's are closer to the tires, so I put some spacers between the mudflap angle supports and the body crossmembers they mount to which pulls the mudflaps back from the tire a bit. Also added 3 lockouts, front wheels and front driver's side tandem to help make easier turns and prolong tire life. Originally I had just pulled the rear drive shaft off, but another member and I split a set of Selectro Lockouts so we could each get one for the front tandem.
So far I'm running 45psi Front, and 35psi rear tire pressure. The truck has Air-o-Matic steering and I was concerned about rubbing on the drag link but there is plenty of space, no rubbing at all. Speedometer will show 40mph when gps shows about 48-49mph, and when speedo shows 20mph, GPS shows about 25mph. Finally, one of the nicest improvements is that when I pull the truck onto the driveway to work on it, I no longer have to park on squares of plywood since the 395s have more footprint and the old NDT tires would sink into my blacktop.

 

[bones1]

Thanks G for the info. Funny, I know I replied to this thread a couple days ago.....................

 

[scrapman1971]

I read this whole thread so excuse me if i missed it. Does this mrap wheel conversion require a hub flip on the rear axles?

 

[DaneGer21]

I read this whole thread so excuse me if i missed it. Does this mrap wheel conversion require a hub flip on the rear axles?

Simple answer; Yes

 

[gringeltaube]

Price on the rims and adapters please....

Post an ad in the Parts-Wanted section, please....