My 4l80E install in my 1009, current progress

[richingalveston]

The 4l80e bolts right in with no problems, I installed it like the tm says for the th400. I put the torgue converter on the trans, bolted in the trans then bolted the torque converter to the flywheel. Of course thats the easy part.

The 4l80e core does not come with the lower cover (dust cover)on the torque converter. it is a dealer part $45 but the cover for the 6.5 and 7.4 have been discontinued so you have to buy the one for the 5.7 which needs a little grinding on at the starter and around the crank. Not difficult to do, the new cover is thin sheetmetal and not aluminum cast. The new cover does not have the bolt location on the bottom like the th400 so you have to find a different way to tie down the lines at the trans. I made a bracket that bolts to the trans and has couplers on it so I can tie the two different size coolant lines togather.
Yes, the coolant lines are not the same size nor do they have the same connector. The 4l80e has 3/8 pop in line fittings where the th400 has 5/16 flare. I have welded couplers to the bracket and the pop in lines fit one side with a compresion fitting and the flares fittings screw to the outher side.

The dip stick tube has to be bent some and is difficult to install without two people, but the th400 dipstick works however the bracket that bolts to the trans to keep it steady does not reach the bolt hole so i have it loose at this time and due to close clearance it does not move much (hopefully it will be ok). I plan to make an extension bracket to fix this issue

I also had to make an add on bracket where the shifter is, to move the pivet hole of the shifter so that it does not bind, you also have to extend the shift rod that comes from the steering column, I cut it sliped each end into a pipe the size of the rod and welded it to make it about 3 inches longer. the lower shifter piece also has to be bent a little and worked so that when you shift to low, the rod and lower shifter piece do not hit the exhaust pipe. The 4l80e does not need the vacume line, I currently just pluged it and may remove it later. The 4l80e does not need the orange kick down wire either. I have just tie rapped it out of the way for now until I decide to remove it.

you also have to move the crossmember back because the 4l80e is about 1.5 inches longer than the th400 also the foot of the spacer between the 4l80e and the transfer case is 4 inches shorter than the th400 spacer. I moved the front bolt of the cross member to the back hole and drilled another hole for the back. I then made a custom bracket that goes between the crossmember and the foot of the trans. my bracket was a little short and I had to install some washers and spacers because the front drive shaft was hitting the cross member.

The transfer case bolts directly to the 4l80e 4x4 tail housing, no additional spacers are needed. The only thing that needs to be done to the transfer case is to extend the shift rod two inches. I did this the same as the column shift rod buy cutting it and putting a piece of pipe in the middle. you need the threads at the end so the rod must be extended in the middle.

I installed a 4 inch ORD lift with zero rates front and back for a total of 5 inches of lift. I also have a d60 front with e-locker and a 14 bolt rear. The axle change may have added another half inch. With the zero rates, I moved the front axle forward and inch and the back axle back an inch. The U joints are not the same on the rear of 1009 and 1008 (my parts truck is a 100. I am having the 1008 rear axle cut down to fit the 1009 and I have to have the front axle extended 3.5 inches.

I bought the TCI fast TCU controler it did the same things as the other controlers and it was cheaper. I like the digital display better than the one that has dials only. The TCI controler lets you input the axle ratio and the tire size so that it can display your actual speed instead of guessing with the speedometer.

I have purchased a dsl-1 module from dakota digital to convert the alternator tach post signal to a digital tach signal for the TCI Controler. It should be here on wednesday.

I also purchased a BWD EC3003 throttle possition sensor to work with the controler. It is an electonic TPS that replaces the vacume TPS that is currently on the 6.2. Apparently they had a 6.2 in 1991 that used this electronic TPS instead of the Vacuum TPS. It was expensive at $115 (oriely auto parts). I thought I got ripped off until I got home and checked fleebay and they listed for $145.

I installed the TPS and controler today to find my Contoler to be no good. I have to call Monday to figure out what needs to be done to fix it. I was able to drive the truck today in low to find out my rear axle u-joint is binding at the t-case so I am going to have to get rid of the slip yoke.

My current review of the FAST TCI transmission control unit is not good. Maybe Monday my opinion will change. My biggest problem is the box appears to be no good, and the second problem is the handheld is poorly made. The box is flimsy and the display has some glue or other crap on the inside that blocks part of the screen. The contoler is curently in flash mode and will not reset. Flash mode is used when loading the program into the box.

My rear driveshaft is going to need a fix. I was only going to use the 208 t-case for a few months until I could get my 205 rebuilt with new input shaft and a planetary doubler. But the t-case with slip yoke and cut down driveshaft will not work in a 1009 with 5 inch lift. With no lift it would not be a problem. The rear driveshaft will have to have a CV joint like the front driveshaft to work on the 1009. A 1008 would not have a problem due to the longer drive train.

What I have left is to fix the controler, get the DSL-1 tach module installed when it gets here and fix the rear driveshaft/t-case issue. I am probably going to have to speed up the 205 build instead of putting more money into the 208 that I plan to get rid of in a few months. May have to put off the tires and wheels for a few months and live with the stock 1008 tires until my wallet recovers from the 205 build.

enjoy the pics and feel free to ask questions.

 

[richingalveston]

More pics on 4l80E install

some of the pics didnt make it in the last post

 

[NDT]

Whatcha gonna do with the residue M1008?

 

[richingalveston]

It will be for sale, It ran and drove great before removing axles, driveshafts and t-case. I have the 10 bolts that could be put on it along with the 208 tcase from the 09, and maybe the tcase from the 08 if i get my 205 built.
I also have the th400 with torque converter which was a good tranny before removal that I will be getting rid of.

the 1008 is currently on blocks out back where we park the trailers.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Please do not start a new thread just to add pics. Post another post in the existing thread. Both threads merged.

 

[NDT]

I wonder why the TCI controller needs the engine rpm signal and the us shift quick1 controller does not. That Dakota Digital DSL2 makes the whole install too complex IMO.

 

[richingalveston]

the dakota digital part is $75 with shipping, hopefully the install is not to difficult, I will post the install of it when it arrives. I went with the TCI because it also has a tach output for a digital tach, it has real time display of speed, trans temp, gear, tc lockup status and a bunch of other goodies that will keep me from spending more money getting the sending units for these devices I would like to add to the truck at a later date.



I found the opti shift to be just a controler for more money.

because I got a bad tci out of the box and the Handheld had some quality issues, I am holding out on recomending the tci. IF they fix the issues and it performs as it is supposed to then I will possibly give it my recomendation. AT this time, I am just trying to give everyone all the info I can about my install.

Sorry about the double thread, my bad

 

[FMJ]

I installed a 4 inch ORD lift with zero rates front and back for a total of 5 inches of lift. I also have a d60 front with e-locker and a 14 bolt rear. The axle change may have added another half inch. With the zero rates, I moved the front axle forward and inch and the back axle back an inch. The U joints are not the same on the rear of 1009 and 1008 (my parts truck is a 100. I am having the 1008 rear axle cut down to fit the 1009 and I have to have the front axle extended 3.5 inches.

Curious why you are going to cut the rear axle down?
Why not just relocate the spring pads on the rear axle?
Also, the front axle, is there a reason to retube and extend? axle shafts are pricey?

The 1009 stuff is 1310 u joints, the 1008 stuff is 1350

If I'm wrong, someone else chime in.

Ed

 

[richingalveston]

sorry, i ment drive shafts. the front yoke on my 1008 had the smaller yoke. the rear was larger. you do
have to move the spring perches on the rear axle to put the 14 bolt on a 1009

 

[FMJ]

When I put the 14 bolt in my 1009 I found a 3/4 ton suburban in a junk yard and used that 14 bolt housing, instead of hacking and welding the spring perches.

 

[Recovry4x4]

In a pinch there are combination joints but with the lift and axle movement, retubing the front and shortening the M1008 rear is the right choice. The spring perches are narrower on your 14B vs the 10 bolt and I'm thinking the shock mounts are on the opposite sides. The steel perches are much easier to remove than the cast ones used in the 70's.

 

[FMJ]

In a pinch there are combination joints but with the lift and axle movement, retubing the front and shortening the M1008 rear is the right choice. The spring perches are narrower on your 14B vs the 10 bolt and I'm thinking the shock mounts are on the opposite sides. The steel perches are much easier to remove than the cast ones used in the 70's.

Shock mounts different, perches narrower on the 14 bolt 1008 vs the 10 bolt 1009
here are some pics of the joint I'm using on my 1009, it's a precision part number 447 and is a 1350 cap and a saginaw cap, I swapped the output 1310 yoke on the 1009 TH400 with the 1350 yoke from the 1008 TH400 when I put the 14 bolt in my truck, so I'm running the stock 1009 saginaw drive shaft with these adapter joints.

 

[FMJ]

The reason they use the saginaw joint on the 1009 is because the stock 1008 driveshaft doesn't have the clearance between the yokes at the angles involved and will bind. The clips are on the inside on the saginaw joint. I have to grease my joints (lol) every 1500-2000 miles to make them live. Thats why I'm considering going to this: http://www.highangledriveline.com/images/1350cv/208-1350cv1.jpg

 

[FMJ]

And with the 4L80E the DS angle is going to be even steeper because the transfer case is going to be closer to the rear end

 

[Speddmon]

This is a very interesting read. I'm in the process of swapping out my turbo 400 for a 700R4 in the M1028/1031.

I am however going to move this thread into the CUCV Hot rodding and Modifications section of the forum. This is what I thought would happen when people bugged and bugged to have the new forum created. Members don't know about it and still post everything in the normal CUCV forum.

 

[richingalveston]

I am going to go ahead and get my 205 tcase finished and installed before reworking the drive shaft. I compared the origional 1009 drive shaft with the re-worked 1008 drive shaft and they have almost the same max angle. With the lift and moving the tcase back neither slip joint style shaft will work. The only option would be to go to a fixed yoke and put the slip in the drive shaft.
I am not going to continue with the 208 tcase, I was only going to use it for about 6 months or until I could get the 205 built, I through away $100 on the driveshaft, do not want to throw another $300 away getting a fixed yoke on the 208 that was only going to be temporary.
What I plan to do to the 205 is add a planetary doubler to the front and have the cv style joint in the rear just like the front, with this change, the front and rear driveshafts will be the same length allowing for a spare to be carried like '1toncucv's' rig.

My 205 already has the larger front output shaft, I will have to bore the case for the larger input bearing, mine currently has the small bearing with 27 spline male input shaft. I have looked at other planetary doublers and there are some cheaper units if you can get it. From what I have read about the diablo box is that they are not really in production nor are they perfected and some people have been waiting four months or more for theirs. Apparently ORD does not have these problems that is probably why theirs cost so much. however when I break down the cost of the other planetary doublers and the cost I would spend on making the 208 work until I could get the other built (if I could get the parts) I will only be spendimg $300 to $400 more and I will be on the road a lot faster.
Other doubler cost would be:
get 205 input shaft changed to 32 spline female input - $250
get empty planetary doubler (the diablo box) -$650
get 241 planetary gears and guts - $250 plus a lot of time searching junk yards/internet for a good gear set.
spend $300 on my 208 to make it work for 6 months.

thus I am at an approx. $1500 and 6-8 months, I can buy the ORD magnum for $1900 and it comes with everything I need

I will have to delay my tires and wheels for 6 months to let my wallet recover. I can live with the small tires for 6 months or until I get my jeep sold.

 

[richingalveston]

The details on my 14 bolt axle install are:
I cut the perches off and moved them to fit the 1009. I also cut off the shock mounts and rewelded new tabs on the tops of the tubes. My upper shock mount is still outboard, some day this may change but it is not necessary (mufflers have to be moved slightly to inboard shocks). I installed the bilsteen 5100 serries shocks front and rear with new extended shock mounts in the front.

I did all of this with ORD hardware including crossover high steer in the front with 2 wheel drive steering box and a bourgeson steering shaft, The steering is incredible now, not one bit of slop. no hydro steer yet but plan to add hydro assist at a later date.

As far as getting another axle tube instead of cutting mine up, It was very easy to cut up, I spent half day on the rear axle. I would have spent more time just driving to pick up another unkown condition axle and then I would have had to pull everything out of one and put in the other. I put the rear axle on without rebuild, I had the front axle rebuilt because I installed an Eaton E-locker.
I bought the parts truck for the axles. I searched all over the southern US for a good dana 60 and the few that were found must have been gold plated. They wanted 1200 to 1500 for them. I bought the truck from GL for $2100 (+$300 in fuel to get it) and got both axles and a good dash pad (that was a bonus) I plan to sell what remains of the truck with the 10 bolts, an extra tranny and t-case. I hated to pull the axles off of a perfectly good working 1008 but I really wanted them for my 1009.

My 1008 has the H in the serial number and has the shelter tie downs in the bed but did not have a track lock in the front, maybe while it was in the military's hands they changed the front axle or maybe not all serial numbers with the H in it got a track lock in the front.

 

[ODdave]

The reason they use the saginaw joint on the 1009 is because the stock 1008 driveshaft doesn't have the clearance between the yokes at the angles involved and will bind. The clips are on the inside on the saginaw joint. I have to grease my joints (lol) every 1500-2000 miles to make them live. Thats why I'm considering going to this: http://www.highangledriveline.com/images/1350cv/208-1350cv1.jpg

Im gonna go with the reason they used the 3R joint insted of the 1350 is not because of angle but because of price. The 3R is the most common joint GM used in both cars and trucks, they also used 10 bolts in both cars and trucks. It would cost more money to re-tool and make yokes to fit various u-joints so they only used one. You wont find any othere yoke for a 10 bolt but a 3r.

 

[1ton cucv k5 turbo]

I had basicly the same delimna... I reused my exisiting Front driveshaft, sourced another front Driveshaft ( both are CV Style ) from junkyard, and switched to fixed flange on the rear of my 205... had both shafts reworked with an 8" slip spline shaft.. and after 2 was made, I went back and had a 3rd one made as a spare, to be swapped out on the trail, in the event i broke something more than a ujoint. But because im also running a doubler, it works out that all 3 will fit F/R... I reused the fixed flange on front of 205 and just bought one for rear, $70 ( i think... ) the 8" slip shaft with 1350 8" yoke was about 150 each. and got a deal on labor it was i think about 180 for both... But the 3rd one cost me a straight $250

 

[richingalveston]

My 205 currently has the front shaft upgraded to the 32 spline large output with 1350 yokes. I am looking for the fixed flanges for it now (if you know of a good source let me know) I am going to keep the front drive shaft from the 1008 parts truck that I have to get rebuilt for the rear. I have two 208 t-case's, not sure what the front output is, I may be able to rob the two fronts if they are 32 spline, I will look at this option today.

I asked my driveshaft people if they could put a cv style joint in the existing rear drive shaft to make it similar to the High angle shaft that 'FMJ' posted and they would not do this, they say it can be done but not recomended with slip yoke. The CV type joint they say will cause the rear seal of the t-case to leak and wear very quickly because the tail shaft is to short on the splines to not keep it from having a slight vibration. They are not a 4x4 driveshaft shop and do not want to be thus their answer may be biased.
I hope to get my controler issue resolved today and possibly get the doubler ordered.