My CUCV spin on fuel filter mod

[Milkman357]

actually.....

If you move the mount higher.. there is plenty of room...

I used the stock filter mount.. and added a 6" lenght of metal.. to move the assembly up.. It's as close to the hood as I can get it..

PLENTY of room under the filter..

The vent Idea is a good idea! if I don't have a problem with my closed system.. I'm gonna leave mine as is..

It's worked PERFECTLY so far.. M-1009 starts like a CHAMP.. and doesn't die.. THAT means.... NO AIR leaking into the system!

 

[Sam27]

Getting from 1/2" NPT to 1/4" or 3/8" barb is tough. Any suggestions where to buy? I found adapters at McMaster, but I have to buy a box of 5...

 

[ryan77]

Home depot get a brass 1/2" to 3/8 barb fitting in the plumbing isle!!!

 

[Sam27]

Home depot get a brass 1/2" to 3/8 barb fitting in the plumbing isle!!!

Sometimes they come through. How about the 1/4" though?

By the way, anyone know how a person would go about replacing the 1/4" hose from the filter to the injector pump (I think that's what it is). The connection is totally buried under the intake. I can see it with a flashlight, but have no idea how I'd reach in there.

 

[engineman2]

Hose Replacement

If you can reach behind the intake between the manifold and the vacuum pump there is a surprising amount of room. I used this room to fit my hand and some tools in to replace that bit of hose when I did my spin-on mod. Of course removal of the air filter is required and something to plug the intake openings to prevent garbage falling in.

 

[ralbelt]

When replacing hose in restricted areas use an old throttle wire casing from a lawnmower, the older metal ones will flex around tight bends. Disconnect the hose being replaced but do not remove, slide the casing thru it until it exits the other end as much as possible, then insert the new hose onto the casing and pull the old hose slowly out while feeding the new hose in.

 

[Sam27]

When replacing hose in restricted areas use an old throttle wire casing from a lawnmower, the older metal ones will flex around tight bends. Disconnect the hose being replaced but do not remove, slide the casing thru it until it exits the other end as much as possible, then insert the new hose onto the casing and pull the old hose slowly out while feeding the new hose in.

I'm having a hard time picturing this. How does the new hose get past the old hose?

 

[Sam27]

If you can reach behind the intake between the manifold and the vacuum pump there is a surprising amount of room. I used this room to fit my hand and some tools in to replace that bit of hose when I did my spin-on mod. Of course removal of the air filter is required and something to plug the intake openings to prevent garbage falling in.

Yup, my arm could fit in there as long as I laid almost completely prone across the engine bay to get my elbow far enough back. Still a PITA to tighten the new hose clamp with only one hand. Not sure how a big guy would accomplish this. Either way, job done.

 

[engineman2]

Glad it worked!! And yeah it is a pain to do, but easier and less time consuming than removing the intake.

 

[paraclete comes]

got a Racor 245 spin on model today from West Marine, they had it for sale at $148.00 but will price match anyone that has it in stock. So I googled some boat shop that had it for $100.00, they price matched it sure enough. Money! So this model doesnt come with the heater, but I can add it at a later time if i need to. Heres a link if anyones interested.
Racor 245R2 FUEL FILTER/WATER SEPARATOR ASSEMBLY

This was a great fit for me as I wanted more than the Napa 4770 but less than a Racor 400 series. the one i got has the priming pump in the head, clear sight bowl, 2 micron filter, high flow rate at 45gph more than needed and will take a heater.

I plan on making my own heater attempt using a glow plug. The specs on Racors heater is 200 wat 12 or 24 volt I believe and it simply sits in the base of the sight bowl. So maybe I can figure out something to achieve the same results with less money.

 

[Sam27]

Well, here's my new setup. Still haven't gotten it to start though, ran down the batteries filling up the filter since I don't have any diesel laying around. I don't foresee any problems outside of possibly chasing down a leak from the fittings.

This is a Wix 33005 filter/water separator on a Wix 24770 base, with fittings to get from 1/2" NPT to 1/4" barb and 3/8" barb, plus the petcock. Still need some tubing for the petcock.

 

[Sam27]

Bigger pics.

 

[engineman2]

Lookin' good Sam27! I like the petcock idea. That's what's nice about that base, has extra inputs/outputs for extra neat stuff. Also, as stated before, multiple filters will fit on that base. I tried a few of the ones in the shop just to see if they fit. I might run down the numbers of them in case anyone wants to use another one.

 

[bftrain]

That looks real nice I will be doing something similar with my 6.2.

 

[hatzie]

That looks good.
Some filter heads like the Racor 400 series have a built in primer pump. I agree they cost $$$.
Other than cost... is there any reason not to run a Racor 490?

 

[bftrain]

No

 

[paraclete comes]

not that im aware of, however I went with the Racor 200 series. can be had for $100.00 and you can add at a later time the heater if you want. It also has the priming pump built in. with that head you can run multiple filters down to 2 microns and up to 45 gph. For me it was a great blend of price and performance with potential for upgrades in the future.

 

[camp9]

What kind of fuel line is that with the color blue?

 

[Sam27]

What kind of fuel line is that with the color blue?

Some Summit EFI hose I had laying around. Overkill for the application, but I already had it.

 

[max1008]

My base is starting to leak, so I am most likely going to NAPA tomorrow.

Only question is that just recently I noticed fuel slowly dripping from the large black overflow? hose down the firewall. It comes out behind the pass side wheel well. It looks like it goes up to the filter base. What is that overflow for?