- 4,763
- 1,164
- 113
- Location
- Gaithersburg, MD
Jason, the trucks look great! I am very happy that a friend got my truck! Good luck with it.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
My new M936A2 project (update)
- Thread starter halftrack
- Start date
- 5,265
- 4,014
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
Jason,
Congrats on getting the other wrecker home! The only thing better than one M936A2 is two M936A2's!
I think Ed was referring the the field modification where the M809 or M939 fuel filter/separator is fitted to the A2 trucks. I started gathering pieces for my install today. I am tired of clogging up that dinky little inline filter! I should get it put on next week. I'll take lots of pics.
APN-59
New member
- 5
- 0
- 0
- Location
- Saugus, Massachusetts
Halftrack,
I've been following the work you've been doing on your wrecker. Wow.
I saw a pinched copper line in image 26 of 28, in post #90. It runs past the rubber shock mount. Though you'd like to know.
Keep the faith.
APN-59
I've been following the work you've been doing on your wrecker. Wow.
I saw a pinched copper line in image 26 of 28, in post #90. It runs past the rubber shock mount. Though you'd like to know.
Keep the faith.
APN-59
halftrack
Active member
- 1,018
- 11
- 38
- Location
- New Orleans, LA
Thanks, Its just a line that supplies air to the horn. Good eye though!
halftrack
Active member
- 1,018
- 11
- 38
- Location
- New Orleans, LA
Thanks Chris and the same to you! I will wait for the pics to see the setup and to see how it is mounted.
halftrack
Active member
- 1,018
- 11
- 38
- Location
- New Orleans, LA
Thanks Ed
Got some NSN's for some of the MWO's out there if anyone needs em
Accelerator Linkage kit 2590-01-424-1705
Fuel tank vent kit for M939 and M939A1's 2910-01-291-9596
FRONT BRAKE VALVE KIT 2530-01420-4221
Spring brake valve guard kit 2530-01-286-7754
Front lifting pin and shackle kit 4030-01-372-9833
Automatic Throttle Kit 2910-01-290-0738 for M936 and M936A1
when i find more ill tell ya.Everytime i am doing an inspection on a certain model ill try and toss up all the MWO's for it.Incase some of you need em
Accelerator Linkage kit 2590-01-424-1705
Fuel tank vent kit for M939 and M939A1's 2910-01-291-9596
FRONT BRAKE VALVE KIT 2530-01420-4221
Spring brake valve guard kit 2530-01-286-7754
Front lifting pin and shackle kit 4030-01-372-9833
Automatic Throttle Kit 2910-01-290-0738 for M936 and M936A1
when i find more ill tell ya.Everytime i am doing an inspection on a certain model ill try and toss up all the MWO's for it.Incase some of you need em
- 5,265
- 4,014
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
Thanks Ed. Winslow has some of the throttle linkage kits BTW.
jwaller
Active member
- 3,724
- 19
- 38
- Location
- Columbia, SC
mine doesn't have it done. maybe I should call and get one. might help me get the hand throttle issue worked out.
halftrack
Active member
- 1,018
- 11
- 38
- Location
- New Orleans, LA
Well, after a filter change and a little persuasion from starter fluid (barely any), I cleared the injection pump of any water and she started right up! Boy she sounds good.
I was able to get a few more work sessions in and I was FINALLY able to test the rear PTO and use the crane. A true milestone in my project. The cable was loose on the drum so I spooled out all the cable and spooled it back in, this time with some weight on it. The rear winch was a bundle of a mess so I did the same to it. Luckily neither cables were pinched or smashed. A little rusty but all looked serviceable. I did not however use the tensioner on the rear winch. I simply hooked it on my pick-up truck and had someone apply a little brake pressure to keep tension on the rear winch cable. The main fairlead rollers worked fine but the little roller wheels on the cable winding guide did not move (a problem I had on the M816 due to lack of use until I took them apart and re-packed them with grease.) BTW, the relocation of the winch controls from the top to the side of the wrecker from the M816 model is a big plus. I found these controls and operation was much simpler and convenient to use then the M816. The PTO on the M936 is less noisy also. I re-greased the cable drum too.
Also, the fan FINALLY kicked on when doing the winch operations. Whenever the rear PTO is engaged, the truck needs to be running at approx. 1400 rpms. Like when Chris says, when it kicks on you will know it. It does not however stay on long maybe for 30 seconds the most and it turns right back off. At least I know it works now. The next step is the front winch. After that then to the blasting yard.
I have not touched the other truck except to get some rim CTIS stuff. I look at it all the time for reference though. It helps have another truck to look at. I will post pics later today.
BTW, does any have just the front CTIS wheel setup they want to sell, mainly just the cover for it?
P.S. I spent over $300 in hydraulic fluid (40 gals )and it could use another 30 gals!
I was able to get a few more work sessions in and I was FINALLY able to test the rear PTO and use the crane. A true milestone in my project. The cable was loose on the drum so I spooled out all the cable and spooled it back in, this time with some weight on it. The rear winch was a bundle of a mess so I did the same to it. Luckily neither cables were pinched or smashed. A little rusty but all looked serviceable. I did not however use the tensioner on the rear winch. I simply hooked it on my pick-up truck and had someone apply a little brake pressure to keep tension on the rear winch cable. The main fairlead rollers worked fine but the little roller wheels on the cable winding guide did not move (a problem I had on the M816 due to lack of use until I took them apart and re-packed them with grease.) BTW, the relocation of the winch controls from the top to the side of the wrecker from the M816 model is a big plus. I found these controls and operation was much simpler and convenient to use then the M816. The PTO on the M936 is less noisy also. I re-greased the cable drum too.
Also, the fan FINALLY kicked on when doing the winch operations. Whenever the rear PTO is engaged, the truck needs to be running at approx. 1400 rpms. Like when Chris says, when it kicks on you will know it. It does not however stay on long maybe for 30 seconds the most and it turns right back off. At least I know it works now. The next step is the front winch. After that then to the blasting yard.
I have not touched the other truck except to get some rim CTIS stuff. I look at it all the time for reference though. It helps have another truck to look at. I will post pics later today.
BTW, does any have just the front CTIS wheel setup they want to sell, mainly just the cover for it?
P.S. I spent over $300 in hydraulic fluid (40 gals )and it could use another 30 gals!
Attachments
Last edited:
halftrack
Active member
- 1,018
- 11
- 38
- Location
- New Orleans, LA
Ed, what is the proper way to engage and disengage the rear PTO? Transfer case first then PTO, then tranny, then higher rpms??? I have a little trouble putting the transfer back to high when I am done. If I wait too long after disengaging the rear PTO, then the transfercase lever does not want to move back to high unless I pressure down. Any suggestions? What's the right way?
The way i used to to it was toss the transfer into N..make sure the tranny is in N...start up the struck..put it into gear to varify the transfer is in N....put the tranny back into N.Ull your PTO handle beside the seat on..Put the tranny into D bring RPMS up to your desired amount.wait for the PTO to engage(sometimes the RPMS might drop a tad) adjust.pull out the throttle cable to match ur RPMS(makes the cable last a littlew longer when ur not manually pulling the injector pump,rather use the floor pedal).Make sure the cable is clicked in and ur ready to go.....
taking it off i woulddrop the RPMS while putting into N,then disengage the PTO push the transfer back down and put it back into D.i used to have issues with the transfer going back into high,i would hold it down while shifting into D.it would clunk in. We didnt have time really to adjust everything properly so i never got around to it.The truck got turned in after we brought it back from IRaq..lol..i killed it (warped the intrm axle housing) blew out both rear leafs( cracked em in half) and killed the torque converter..lol..poor truck was abused but it was the wrong sized wrecker for what i had to use it for..had to tow some full M818 with M967 tankers,Wayyyyyyyyyy to much weight,but back in 03 we had no other options..lol
Hope this helps ya
taking it off i woulddrop the RPMS while putting into N,then disengage the PTO push the transfer back down and put it back into D.i used to have issues with the transfer going back into high,i would hold it down while shifting into D.it would clunk in. We didnt have time really to adjust everything properly so i never got around to it.The truck got turned in after we brought it back from IRaq..lol..i killed it (warped the intrm axle housing) blew out both rear leafs( cracked em in half) and killed the torque converter..lol..poor truck was abused but it was the wrong sized wrecker for what i had to use it for..had to tow some full M818 with M967 tankers,Wayyyyyyyyyy to much weight,but back in 03 we had no other options..lol
Hope this helps ya
- 5,265
- 4,014
- 113
- Location
- Charleston, WV
I'm glad you are making some progress, Jason. I enjoy reading your regular updates and seeing your pictures.
I have seen new and used CTIS wheel shields on eBay.
I have seen new and used CTIS wheel shields on eBay.
halftrack
Active member
- 1,018
- 11
- 38
- Location
- New Orleans, LA
Thanks Chris, like I said before, I would still be dragging my butt if it wasn't for your thread motivating me to finish it. If the weather holds out this weekend, i will be sand-blasting the truck. I will be using the rustoleum rusty metal primer for my base coat and plan on putting it on thick! I HATE rust and corrosion1
halftrack
Active member
- 1,018
- 11
- 38
- Location
- New Orleans, LA
Now I remembe why I love wreckers!
Got around to inspecting the Motor in a can while back for parts. Took the oil pan off to inspect under neath. Looked PRETTY! Also, checked the oil cooler. Looked good too! The motor is looking better and better as a substitute motor for the new wrecker I got.
I also got around to pressure washing the running M936A2 and knocked most of the flakes off to prep it for sand-blasting this weekend. I knew she was clean underneath before, but after pressure washing under by the frame rails, I realize how unused and clean this truck really was.
BTW, does anyone know who sells the cheapest complete gasket kit for the 6cta 8.3 Cummins??
Here are some pics naturally.
Got around to inspecting the Motor in a can while back for parts. Took the oil pan off to inspect under neath. Looked PRETTY! Also, checked the oil cooler. Looked good too! The motor is looking better and better as a substitute motor for the new wrecker I got.
I also got around to pressure washing the running M936A2 and knocked most of the flakes off to prep it for sand-blasting this weekend. I knew she was clean underneath before, but after pressure washing under by the frame rails, I realize how unused and clean this truck really was.
BTW, does anyone know who sells the cheapest complete gasket kit for the 6cta 8.3 Cummins??
Here are some pics naturally.
Attachments
halftrack
Active member
- 1,018
- 11
- 38
- Location
- New Orleans, LA
Sandblasted finally! And I will never, never, never sandblast a wrecker again!
I blasted trucks before, but nothing with so many hidden spots and hard to reach areas. You can never get it all. It took just about forever to get all the sand off to paint the truck and lets just say that some of the paint is a little grity in some areas. Oh well, it's textured now.
All in all the truck came out awesome. I decided to just go ahead and get new marker lights and reflectors so I just blasted and painted over them. Painting actually went the fastest. I truly under estimated the task at hand. I will just pay someone next time.
It took 20 - 100lb bags of sand and 2 gallons of primer. I thought it would of taken more primer. I put it on thick too. I am sure there are some holidays that I will catch with the second coat of primer in a few weeks. Believe it or not it kick my butt and wore me out. It came out nice though. Of course here is some pics.
BTW, The jack legs will put you in the hospital. THEY ARE HEAVY!! Thanks to some forced labor from my two cousins I was able to pull the legs out and do a good blasting job. Thanks Pete and Anthony!
I blasted trucks before, but nothing with so many hidden spots and hard to reach areas. You can never get it all. It took just about forever to get all the sand off to paint the truck and lets just say that some of the paint is a little grity in some areas. Oh well, it's textured now.
All in all the truck came out awesome. I decided to just go ahead and get new marker lights and reflectors so I just blasted and painted over them. Painting actually went the fastest. I truly under estimated the task at hand. I will just pay someone next time.
It took 20 - 100lb bags of sand and 2 gallons of primer. I thought it would of taken more primer. I put it on thick too. I am sure there are some holidays that I will catch with the second coat of primer in a few weeks. Believe it or not it kick my butt and wore me out. It came out nice though. Of course here is some pics.
BTW, The jack legs will put you in the hospital. THEY ARE HEAVY!! Thanks to some forced labor from my two cousins I was able to pull the legs out and do a good blasting job. Thanks Pete and Anthony!
