Nebulous, M1009

[cucvrus]

You need to get a cordless impact at Harbor Freight. I have Snap on's but a home owner and do it yourselfer needs a Harbor Freight cordless impact. I changed all 4 shocks on Terminus laying in the dirt in no more then 30 minutes. The drivers side rear upper bolt is the worst one. I will give extra time if you have trouble with that. But this is not my first time so you done good.Todaay I stretched my Terminus M1009 a bit after a hard work out. Aw that feels good after sitting in a junk yard.

 

[kkcshipp]

I have a Dewalt cordless impact cordless but those bolts were solid. I'm glad I have a 17-year old with a strong back. I almost thought two of them were welded on, but slowly we turned them with the breaker until I could ratchet them off. I thought it would take an hour but the rust wasn't giving me anything. Terminus looks good for a junkyard dog.

 

[kkcshipp]

We finished both inner fender wells and had to replace the heater core. Right when we we're finishing up I had a leaky hose but it was a bad hose clamp.

 

[cucvrus]

I am glad to see that you were able to get that task completed. Looks good and you cleaned everything as you went. great keep up the good work. did you do the front inner wheel aprons yet? Good Luck.

 

[kkcshipp]

Yes sir, thanks to your write ups we finished both. That dang clamp cost me 30 minutes of my time today.

 

[cucvrus]

Better 30 minutes at home in the driveway then 15 minutes along the road in the rain.

 

[kkcshipp]

Yep, just didn't have one so had to make a run to get a few. Onto the next project, fixing the cracks in the floor.

 

[kkcshipp]

Sorry folks it was a long winter. Since my last post my son has been driving the truck to school everyday. First snow he had no issues getting it into 4WD etc. had to replace both batteries at autozone, but I was glad they lasted that long. We now have been searching for some rattling and metallic clanking while driving. Put it up on jack stands and it seems to come from the rear drive shaft. All the U joints look solid and I tried to drop the shaft but can't get any budge. Any recommendations are always welcome. We plan on painting this summer.

 

[Al Harvey]

Did you check for any play in the rear driveshaft at the diff? If there is a lot of play it could be the rear pinion.

 

[kkcshipp]

Seemed okay when I shook it side to side. Was going to drop the rear shaft then place it in 4wd to see if it was maybe the transfer etc. I'm pretty sure the noise is at the rear shaft.

 

[kkcshipp]

Nasty out there today so we will check it out tomorrow, and look for play at the rear diff.

 

[PeeWeeQ]

I'd double-check those u-joints too. If they're in the early stages of going out a glance or quick hand wiggle might not tell you much. Get a good flashlight and look close. You might want to take the d-shaft off and give them a look. They can deteriorate quickly once they start.

If it were me, they aren't that expensive and it's good experience--I'd just replace them. I may be weird like that, but, when I suspect something, if it's not too expensive, that's just what I do. Those beasts were run hard and put away wet for as few miles as they have on them...(Especially when us grunts only had them for the weekend ).

 

[cucvrus]

I am guessing on the rear u joint being bad. It can be tight but have burled dry marks on the trunions of the u joint. Jack up the rear wheels support the frame and let the axle hang. Take the 7/16" strap bolts out and gently pry forward on the drive shaft thru the rear yoke opening. Put a pan under the tail of the transfer case to keep the driveway happy and free of oil. Pull the drive shaft out. An M1009 has snap rings on the U joint caps to center it in the rear yoke.Also while you have the shaft off it is good to replace the output seal on the transfer case. National seal # 9449. It keeps everything nice and dry under the M1009. Good Luck. I hope all goes well.

 

[kkcshipp]

We are going to get to it next weekend. Tomorrow and Tuesday we have commitments for college as my son received a ROTC and an academic scholarship to the University of Kentucky. He wants to take the CUCV with him so we have some work to do. I will let you know how it goes.

 

[kkcshipp]

I am guessing on the rear u joint being bad. It can be tight but have burled dry marks on the trunions of the u joint. Jack up the rear wheels support the frame and let the axle hang. Take the 7/16" strap bolts out and gently pry forward on the drive shaft thru the rear yoke opening. Put a pan under the tail of the transfer case to keep the driveway happy and free of oil. Pull the drive shaft out. An M1009 has snap rings on the U joint caps to center it in the rear yoke.View attachment 616871View attachment 616872Also while you have the shaft off it is good to replace the output seal on the transfer case. National seal # 9449. It keeps everything nice and dry under the M1009. Good Luck. I hope all goes well.

There is no C clip on the other side; I've wrestled with this thing for an hour. Somewhere on the net they talk about a nylon pin we have to heat out?

 

[PJL]

Ahhh, those are a bear to remove. There is a groove in the yoke and a matching groove in the cap. They squirt in the plastic to lock it in place. Heat it with a torch until the nylon is done oozing out of both sides.

A press is the best way to push them out. I did a set with a hammer and some sockets. Took me 2 days. First day nothing moved. I sprayed it down with WD40 and the next day they came right out. There are a number of Youtube videos that show how to do it. Your new U Joints will have clips on the inside of the yoke to hold it in place.

 

[joshuak]

After you torch the pins outs, Auto Zone has a tool in the loan program that has helped me, might help you.

http://m.autozone.com/loan-a-tools/ball-joint-press/oem-ball-joint-u-joint-press-set/557231_0_0/

 

[kkcshipp]

Had to go buy a small torch and they came a oozing out. Took a drill and removed the remains in the hole. While it was hot I put some PB Blaster on it and then hit the tar out of it using a socket and a hammer. With the parts run it took me and my son about 4 hours. First photo is the old u joint that had fallen apart; second is the new look,with zerk nuts used moot heavy duty joint from autozone. Squealing is gone.

 

[PeeWeeQ]

Glad you got it taken care of...

I hate unsolved issues and phantom noises... I'll spend all day trying to find the source of the slightest "thunk" or "squeak"....

" 'Cuz knowing is half the battle.... "

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[kkcshipp]

Yeah in this case I knew what it was but 30 years of crud and being stuck with rust made it difficult. I think we were fortunate it took only 4 hours.