need hemtt Detroit Diesel 8v92ta mechanic near Sacramento

[8madjack]

Here it is

 

[Valor]

I used a socket just big enough to seat the wrist pin retainers. The TM did not specify a special tool to install or to use for leak tesing. They all went in good with the detent facing in. One was a bit problematic and it got buggered up just a bit At the edge. I ended up with an extra retainer so I may pull Out the buggered up one and replace. Will Wagner lent me a ring compressor for installing the pistons in the Liners. I’ll post a pic of the buggered one this weekend.

The Kent- Moore tool part number shown in one of the service manual pics is for a 53 series. A 92 series would have a bigger wrist pin and a different tool and number. it would be a good idea to check those retainers for leaks cuz oil can leak there if not sealed good and then you burn oil. I used a socket one time with a 53 series and the engine used a lot of oil. A tapered sleeve piston installer would be a lot easier than a ring compressor. There are 5 rings on each piston and you don't want to break any. If I had a tapered installer for a 92 series I would loan it to you but I don't. Your gonna need an injector timing tool also later on. I have one but not sure if it's what you need. I'll see which one I have. Carry on!

 

[Tracer]

I used a socket just big enough to seat the wrist pin retainers. The TM did not specify a special tool to install or to use for leak tesing. They all went in good with the detent facing in. One was a bit problematic and it got buggered up just a bit At the edge. I ended up with an extra retainer so I may pull Out the buggered up one and replace. Will Wagner lent me a ring compressor for installing the pistons in the Liners. I’ll post a pic of the buggered one this weekend.

Mike, DO REPLACE that buggered up retainer. I've seen them come unseated and tear up a piston and liner. Other wise, carry on.

 

[bigmike]

Update 5/4/2020
assembled the pistons And reassembled the heads. Regarding the buggered up piston pin cap, here is the picture.

 

[bigmike]

You can see the buggering is superficial. I can still replace before assembly. Your thoughts?

 

[Valor]

You can see the buggering is superficial. I can still replace before assembly. Your thoughts?

Sorry Mike, I can't really tell from the pic. Just make sure it doesn't leak when you apply suction with a vacuum hand pump.

 

[MrMikey4026]

You can see the buggering is superficial. I can still replace before assembly. Your thoughts?

Replace it, too hard to get to later. When I worked for Detroit Diesel, we tested them with a suction cup attachment on a mighty vac.

 

[bigmike]

Update 5/10/2020
opened up the gasket set. found several gaskets damaged. PC industries was good about replacing. Ready to install pistons into liners. Also, here is a closeup of the buggered up piston pin cap. Minor at worst.

 

[bigmike]

Update 6/6/2020:
finally installed the liners and pistons. What a chore. Used hose to guide the rod past the crank so no damage to the crank. Made my own liner hold down brackets. Found that the left bank went in easier than the right bank...a bit of block warpage is my guess. None the less, we are ready to reinstall heads.

 

[Tracer]

Looking good Mike. If you need a Soldier B for anything let me know.

 

[bigmike]

update 6/14/2020
Question on head alignment.
when I had the heads resurfaced, they gave me these 4 split rings. They were in the head. Head alignment?

also, I bought these alignment pins. Do I need both or just use one or the other?

 

[WillWagner]

I think they go in the head or block to locate he gasket...keeps it in place. Most likely the block, it would be hard to keep the gasket on the head while installing it

 

[bigmike]

the gaskets all have counterbores and machined grooves to sit in. The Split sleeves were in the head. I’m pretty sure for aligning the head onto the block. Just not sure if I need both the sleeves and the pins I bought.

 

[MrMikey4026]

the gaskets all have counterbores and machined grooves to sit in. The Split sleeves were in the head. I’m pretty sure for aligning the head onto the block. Just not sure if I need both the sleeves and the pins I bought.

The sleeves go in the top outside bolt holes in the heads.
I have always used old head bolts for guide studs, do not use the in the holes with the guide sleeves!
If they are threaded, just urn them in a thread or so, makes them much easier to remove.
don forget the shims on ther deck surface.

 

[bigmike]

The sleeves go in the top outside bolt holes in the heads.
I have always used old head bolts for guide studs, do not use the in the holes with the guide sleeves!
If they are threaded, just urn them in a thread or so, makes them much easier to remove.
don forget the shims on ther deck surface.

Just to be clear. I use the split rings in the top outer head bolt holes between the head and block. I use the alignment pins but not in the same holes as the split rings. This way I’ll have more help aligning the head correctly.
yes, I wont forget the shims on the deck surface.

 

[bigmike]

Update 6/22
put the split rings in the head and the alignment pins take up the slack perfectly. TM says to put alignment pins in bottom outer head bolt holes. I’m going to install the split rings in the associated Bottom outer bolt holes of the head and the alignment pins in the block Bottom outer head bolt holes.
head gasket has a green side, I thought I read somewhere about a color facing a certain way?

 

[Tracer]

Good job Mike. A step at a time.

 

[WillWagner]

Smoke yet?

 

[bigmike]

Smoke yet?

Not yet...close but no cigar

 

[bigmike]

Update 7/5/2020:
installed the heads today. Wow, what a chore. Needed soldier B for sure. Got them aligned and dropped them in place. Thank goodness for the alignment pins. Needed two people to get the torque and the additional 90 degrees on the head bolts.