Next Step for a "No Start"?

[OD Heavy Hauler]

It happened to me today. Turned the key but no start. Jumped wires to relay (purple & red ) under the dash but still no start. Next culprit to look at would be what?

 

[Warthog]

Read the troubleshooting section of the TM 9-2320-289-20

Make sure the batteries are charged.

Check electrical connections/grounds

 

[OD Heavy Hauler]

I'll check it out. Batteries have good charge ( tested while sitting @ Autozone with the no start) and all connections seem tight. Do I remember correctly or not that the CUCV's have 2 starter relays. one with a 12v coil and the other with 24v coil. Not sure of that. Thanks Warthog and all others. Warthog did you find that picture of Gen1 spacer for sheave alignment?

 

[blackhueys]

I had a fusible link on the 24 volt dist block under the hood blow on me replaced it with an inline fuse holder been fine ever since. Not sure if it helps but maybe check there as well.

 

[Crash_AF]

Start with the simple checks:
1) Check the 24V fuse in the fuse box
2) Check the red wire at the starter relay for 24V

Later,
Joe

 

[OD Heavy Hauler]

Which fuse in the block carries the 24v? I jumped the under dash starter relay red & purple wire with same results as if I tried the key. The one under dash also has 12v when I turn the ignition to start. I thought I'd seen on this site that the cucv's have 2 starter relays (one under dash that triggers a 24v relay for starter) am I wrong on that? If I'm not, is the 2nd relay located on or near the starter? I can't get the TM's to open up on my 'puter. Don't know whats up with that right now.

 

[ABN173]

This has the info on the under dash relay:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/32943-doghead-starter-relay-modifcation.html

 

[Warthog]

There is one 12v starter relay under the dash. When the key is turned it energizes and completes the circuit for the 24v starter solenoid on the starter..

The 24v fuse is the bottom one in the fuse box. It live at all times. It is feed from the Positive Terminal Block behind the rear battery and is spliced with the red wire to the under dash relay.

Pull the relay and check for 24v on the red wire (always hot) and 12v on the purple/white wire when the key is turned. Also check the resistance on the black ground wire. It should be 0 ohms.

Let us know.

You may want to go ahead and do Dogheads modification.

 

[Warthog]

I can't get the TM's to open up on my 'puter. Don't know whats up with that right now.

When you click on the link, the PDF file will download and then open. It depends on how you have your computer setup. it may take awhile.

You can right click on the link and choose "Save Target As". This should give you the option to Save the file.

 

[OD Heavy Hauler]

Weather permitting I'll do more checking after work today and will post what I find or don't find. Thanks for the help!!

 

[OL AG '89]

Don't want to hijack this thread, but I am experiencing the same situation, but I get an intermittent "wait light" on occasion.... have to crank a couple of time and then she lights up and fires right up..... I have also noticed while driving along that the wait light will flicker on and off over bumps???? starts fine when warm..... always cranks, but ???

 

[Warthog]

Don't want to hijack this thread, but I am experiencing the same situation, but I get an intermittent "wait light" on occasion.... have to crank a couple of time and then she lights up and fires right up..... I have also noticed while driving along that the wait light will flicker on and off over bumps???? starts fine when warm..... always cranks, but ???

Sounds like you have a totally different situation. He has a no crank/start sistuation. Pleas start a new post so this tread will stay on track.

 

[OD Heavy Hauler]

Did some more tests when I got home from work. I have reason to believe it's my starter solenoid. Have full 25v on one side of solenoid but not on starter motor side when ignition turned on. Got power to solenoid and I can feel it & hear it clicking in and out. Next issue: Autozone or other car parts places here in this town has no such device. They suggested a agriculture parts place ( Tractor Supply ). I don't know if tractors use any 24v systems??? Suggestions for finding a solenoid. Thanks

 

[Crash_AF]

I believe that there's a John Deere 24V starter solenoid that matches. I'll do a little searching and edit my post if I find it.

ETA: Found this list of part numbers, see if JD can cross them.

Delco 1114373 is the original solenoid number used, the others can be substituted.
Delco #1114260, 1114338, 1114373, 1114390, 1114560, 1114561, 1114574

Later,
Joe

 

[OD Heavy Hauler]

Thanks Crash, I'll see what I can find with these #'s

 

[OD Heavy Hauler]

Checked with local Chevy dealer on those part #'s and none of them came up. A couple of other places can get one but they are a bit pricey ($200). A local starter/alternator shop said he can get one for less than $100. When I find out that brand & part # I'll post to help others who may have a starter solenoid issue. A NAPA # for a $200 one is ST335 if you have no choice and Borg-Warner makes one #S35000 thats just as pricey though. Later

 

[Warthog]

That raises the quetion of what type of starter. Gear Reduction or Direct Drive.

The solenoids are not the same.

The Direct Drive starter (older version) is a Delco Remy 27MT 24v, part# 1113591, the solenoid is GM #1114373 rated for 24v.

The Gear Reduction starter (newer version) is a Delco Remy 28MT 24v, part#10479611, the solenoid is GM #10456116

Here is a link to a related tread

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/50599-starter-soilonode.html

If you do have a gear reduction starter, there is a Service Bulitin that says it is cheaper to repplace the whole starter than it is to replace the solenoid.

I have found one place that sells the soledoid for $116 and you can buy the whole starter for $100 on fleabay.

 

[OD Heavy Hauler]

Interesting question Warthog. I'm not sure which type of starter is on the truck. I'm going to (weather permitting with this rainy spell we're having) pull it down after work tonight. Looked like some kind of arm bolted up on one end near starter and free on other. Is that supposed to be bolted up to something under there ( I'm guessing it should be). I'll make sure of this tonight whether it is or not bolted up. I'll post again tonight. Later

 

[Warthog]

A NAPA # for a $200 one is ST335

This solenoid is for the direct drive starter. You can take it apart and clean the contacts. If it is the coil, you will have to replace it.

Here are a couple of treads that will help you identify the starter tuype. The bracket must be attached to the starter and the block.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/49893-dumb-newbie-starter-question.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/52374-starter.html

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/51593-starter-starter-relay.html

 

[OD Heavy Hauler]

Pulled the starter off this evening and did not see "No Shim" stamped on the starter and saw no shims under it either. Is it possible a starter could come without that stamped on it? Starter has never dragged or anything like it wasn't lined up correctly. Are there any pictures here on this site of the direct and gear reduction type starters? It don't look like a gear reduction like I've seen in say a Summit cat. where motor is offset from flywheel drive gear. It has very little offset. I'm thinking someone put a direct one on truck instead of the reduction type due to the fact its a '86 model which was said used a reduction type. Also the bracket was not attached to starter and the bolt in hole on back of starter was way smaller than hole in the bracket. Looks like some "jerry rigging" may have been at play here on this as two main bolts were of different type of bolt heads and support bracket for starter end doesn't have only a hole its been slotted out.