No electrical power at all to M925A2

[Steelreaper80]

I did an oil change today and my semi sized oil filter wrench ever so slightly cut through the insulation on the wires underneath the oil filter causing a spark storm. I taped up the cut in the insulation with electrical tape and went on to deal with a spring brake bladder replacement and wheel bearing inspection on the passenger side center axle. Hours later I went back to start the truck to make sure I did not have any oil or air leaks and no power at all to the truck. No lights either. What did I fry? I just ran the truck two day ago so I know the batteries are charged up. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Karl kostman]

I am going to guess you either tripped or fried something in the protective box under the hood on the firewall in front of the driver. Time to get some info on that box pull the cover and start looking for where the electric current ends and then figure out why? If it needs replacing I know Wes Simpson had some that he rebuilt. I can not honestly think of anything else it could be?
Karl

 

[simp5782]

Diodes blew to protect the wiring circuits. Open the box up and take a look

 

[Steelreaper80]

Diodes blew to protect the wiring circuits. Open the box up and take a look

Any suggestions on how to rig it to work on an A2 truck? I am under a HUGE time crunch. I am supposed to leave at 4 am for Evansville IN to go mow down there. I can order a new box but it will put me back a few days and don't have a second to spare. I watched your video 3 times and I am still confused. Sorry for not understanding. I pulled the connector. Do I need to bridge the two large holes? Do I have to take off the shutoff solenoid? Things have to be Marine proof the first time then I got it. Thank you.

 

[Jbulach]

Any suggestions on how to rig it to work on an A2 truck? I am under a HUGE time crunch. I am supposed to leave at 4 am for Evansville IN to go mow down there. I can order a new box but it will put me back a few days and don't have a second to spare. I watched your video 3 times and I am still confused. Sorry for not understanding. I pulled the connector. Do I need to bridge the two large holes? Do I have to take off the shutoff solenoid? Things have to be Marine proof the first time then I got it. Thank you.

Sorry, still cant figure out how to post links in Tapatalk...

 

[simp5782]

Remove your fuel shut off valve. Jump the starter post on the starter to start the truck.

Leave your gauges turned off

Take 2 extra batteries and a battery charger. Leave the truck running whenever possible to not have dead batteries. Recharge them at the end of the day. Truck doesn't require any power to stay running. Only logical way to get around it

Even jumping the 2 large wires at the pcb connector won't allow the alternator to charge if the diodes inside the box are blown

Any suggestions on how to rig it to work on an A2 truck? I am under a HUGE time crunch. I am supposed to leave at 4 am for Evansville IN to go mow down there. I can order a new box but it will put me back a few days and don't have a second to spare. I watched your video 3 times and I am still confused. Sorry for not understanding. I pulled the connector. Do I need to bridge the two large holes? Do I have to take off the shutoff solenoid? Things have to be Marine proof the first time then I got it. Thank you.

 

[simp5782]

Do you still have the stock alternator? Or upgraded? Upgraded hooked to the Starter post will charge the batteries whenever running

 

[Steelreaper80]

Do you still have the stock alternator? Or upgraded? Upgraded hooked to the Starter post will charge the batteries whenever running

Upgraded 21SI clone. 70 Amp

 

[simp5782]

Upgraded 21SI clone. 70 Amp

Then it will charge on its own if it's going directly to the starter

Just run without gauges. Jump the starter

 

[Steelreaper80]

Then it will charge on its own if it's going directly to the starter

Just run without gauges. Jump the starter

Positive alternator post to positive starter post? Would jumper cables work for that?

 

[simp5782]

Positive alternator post to positive starter post? Would jumper cables work for that?

Not with the chance of popping off

Go into your battery box. Remove the positive lead from the slave port the battery. Its long enough to be used to hook the starter to the alternator

 

[FullSpecial]

With out a cut off switch that's like leaving the battery switch on all the time, just remember what you did.

 

[simp5782]

With out a cut off switch that's like leaving the battery switch on all the time, just remember what you did.

With the dash switches off it doesn't do anything. The power at the starter is always sending 24v power switch. With the pcb blown it does nothing


On upgraded brushless alternators we always tend to.run the wire from the alternator to tbe battery or starter post. It hurts nothing and leaves no power draw and bypasses the pcb that allows charging

 

[Steelreaper80]

With the dash switches off it doesn't do anything. The power at the starter is always sending 24v power switch. With the pcb blown it does nothing


On upgraded brushless alternators we always tend to.run the wire from the alternator to tbe battery or starter post. It hurts nothing and leaves no power draw and bypasses the pcb that allows charging

Wiring up everything now. Will the lights on the truck work?

 

[simp5782]

Wiring up everything now. Will the lights on the truck work?

Yes. Lights are on their own circuit seperate from the pcb

 

[Steelreaper80]

Yes. Lights are on their own circuit seperate from the pcb

So we wired up the wire from the alternator to the starter, removed the shutoff solenoid, bridged the plug, and jumped the starter with the screwdriver. Truck fired right up. No lights. The low air light and the parking brake indicator lights work but no others. I shut off the truck with the shut-off switch just to test it. I then tried the starter switch and it fired up without like normal.

The current situation is that I can start as normal, batteries are charging but no lights anywhere on the truck other than the two dash indicator lights. I did order a new control box. Is there anything I can check in regards to the lights if the circuit is separate from the PCB?

 

[Steelreaper80]

I checked the TM. It looks like all lights get power from the PCB according to the diagram.

 

[Steelreaper80]

So the dilemma continues.......disconnected the batteries, uninstalled the modifications to start the truck, and put it back to stock. Installed the new PCB. Re-connected the batteries and zilch. Nothing at all. No lights, no gauges, no abs, and absolutely no juice to starter......grrrrrr

 

[Steelreaper80]

So the dilemma continues.......disconnected the batteries, uninstalled the modifications to start the truck, and put it back to stock. Installed the new PCB. Re-connected the batteries and zilch. Nothing at all. No lights, no gauges, no abs, and absolutely no juice to starter......grrrrrr

I am starting to think it may be the battery "top" switch on the dash. If it was in the off position when I had the spark storm could it still have been damaged? According to the diagram in the TM the current goes from the batteries, to the starter, then to the switch. It seems like the problem is that the battery switch is in the off position even though I flip it up.

 

[Steelreaper80]

I found an O ring wire connector under the nut at the bottom right of the picture with the wire end melted off. This picture shows a wire going somewhere. I believe this is my problem. I just don't know where this wire would go. Everything else in this picture is connected on my truck. I have inspected all terminals and all look good. I am just missing the wire at the bottom right near the engine block. Does anyone have a picture of their starter or know what this wire ties into?