NTC 400 Mo Power

[eldgenb]

Here is a pic of the two different Turbos. The big one is on my M920 and the smaler was on the M916

I still think a rail pressure gage would be nice. If you had put a T where you hooked up the new fuel line you test and gage there.

yep, I have the big one on my 920 as well

 

[Flat Black]

any questions you have about an NTC motor can be answered by calling Pittsburgh Power Pittsburgh Power - High performance diesel engine systems

 

[eldgenb]

well just an update, I have put a little over 1k miles on sheila and the power is awesome, mileage went up to 6mpg (from 4.5) and she shifts sooo much better. The two best things that I have done are by far the dual fuel line mod (better response off the line, idle's smoother, happier engine), and shimming the gov.(when you run up against the gov between shifts and then upshift it hits the sweet spot every time ). One problem I ran into was that I developed a coolant leak between the deck and the head. After talking with Soni for a little bit (he is always reassuring) turns out that it is a very common problem with all of the Big Cam 1's out there. My temps are in line with it 6 turns out on the fuel but I backed it down to 3 turns to see if I can find the point in which the coolant stops leaking, if it will stop leaking. The next step would be to put some "Bar Stop" coolant system leak blocker in the block to stop the leak.

 

[Floridianson]

Mo fuel more pressure. The block needs to be cut for different liners maybe? LPF or something like that.
Glad you happy.

 

[eldgenb]

yeah that is possible, I was thinking about fire ringing the heads like they do on the dodge trucks to handle the pressure as well, can the cut the block for liners in frame or do I have to find a way to lug this big bastard into the shop myself? Like I said before, I don't really need any more power than it has but I also do not use my truck anywhere near its potential so I would be happy if the stupid thing would just stop leaking. Another thing, I am pretty anal when it comes to things like leaks so in all reality i would only have to add some water once ever six months or so to keep up with the leak but I just hate leaks.

 

[oldMan99]

well just an update, I have put a little over 1k miles on sheila and the power is awesome, mileage went up to 6mpg (from 4.5) and she shifts sooo much better. The two best things that I have done are by far the dual fuel line mod (better response off the line, idle's smoother, happier engine), and shimming the gov.(when you run up against the gov between shifts and then upshift it hits the sweet spot every time ). One problem I ran into was that I developed a coolant leak between the deck and the head. After talking with Soni for a little bit (he is always reassuring) turns out that it is a very common problem with all of the Big Cam 1's out there. My temps are in line with it 6 turns out on the fuel but I backed it down to 3 turns to see if I can find the point in which the coolant stops leaking, if it will stop leaking. The next step would be to put some "Bar Stop" coolant system leak blocker in the block to stop the leak.

If it is not asking to much... Could you please summarize, in one post, all the mods you did to get the increased MPG? Also, in that same post, any issues (like the leak) what you did to resolve the issue and how that ultimately affected your MPG?

Also, did you notice any MPG increase from just the dual fuel line or only a smoother running engine?

THANKS!!!

 

[Floridianson]

I know it's a little late but when you change out or have to remove the clutch fan leave the belts on the fan cluch and wind up a wrench in the belts till its tight up to the fan pulley. Then since you have allready taken out the two bolts on both sides and the top bolt is loose but not out then after removing the last bolt you have hold of the clutch fan.

 

[eldgenb]

I know it's a little late but when you change out or have to remove the clutch fan leave the belts on the fan cluch and wind up a wrench in the belts till its tight up to the fan. Then since you have allready taken out the two bolts on both sides and the top bolt is loose but not out then after removing the last bolt you have hold of the clutch fan.

yeah that would have been some useful information to have but I figured that one out the hard way! I am about done under the hood, the next phase is a E/F 15 spd 16R20's and paint. I am glad this thread is helping out others with their cummins mills.

 

[R Racing]

Any more updates ??

 

[eldgenb]

Any more updates ??

Not really, I put some BAR LEAK (2 bottles of heavy duty) in the cooling system and turned off the filter for a while and that fixed my leak, I turned the fuel back up to it hit the "fun-o-meter" and it purrrrs right along, Overall I have not seen an increase or decrease in mileage, she does not get hot really but I have only had about 20k behind it is all. She does run a lot better with the fuel, dual fuel lines, and aneroid tweaked a bit, pretty effortless driving compared to before. I am pretty happy with where she is at. I am working on some bobbers for clients right now and then I will transition to finishing my shop and then I will work on the sleeper and tranny swap on the 920 hopefully before winter or at least in my shop this winter if I need to.

 

[cornrichard]

Has anyone ever covered how to adjust the aneroid. I need to just man up and send my pt pump in for a tune up.

 

[R Racing]

Has anyone ever covered how to adjust the aneroid. I need to just man up and send my pt pump in for a tune up.

I was wonderng the same ??

 

[eldgenb]

I have pics of the aneroid location in the thread, you loosen the locknut and turn the center screw counterclockwise quarter turn at a time (I am pretty sure its counterclockwise you will know after the first adjustment) and drive it, if it produces a light amount of smoke then you can go a little further, if it smokes too much you can make that adjustment, it simply controls the amount of fuel fed to the engine pre boost, takes care of those sluggish takeoff's. The aneroid has nothing to do with how much fuel the engine gets once it is in full boost, that is what the fuel adjustment is for in the throttle shaft.

 

[R Racing]

Thank you !!!

 

[eldgenb]

Thank you !!!

your welcome!

 

[eldgenb]

Turbo Air Compressor Mod

So this is an engine mod that does not have any engine performance gain but is a must for any owner of a 915-920 truck, for those of us who suffer with mediocre to pathetic air pressure recovery this is a great way to fix that. This used forced induction from your trucks turbo charger to force feed or "preload" the air compressor prior to it compressing the air further. I did not however come up with this mod, a good friend Jim ( R Racing ) told me about this mod and I did it to my own truck, only took about 15 min and 3 trips to home depot but I will share on here to save you the two trips. I used black iron pipe to do this which is preferred over galvanized etc. You are only holding back 20 lbs of boost maybe so don't feel like you have to go too crazy. I purchased one 1"x4" straight pipe, a 1" to 3/4 90* elbow, and a 3/4x2" straight pipe. Now you also have to get two new hose clamps and you need to plug the air cleaner side which I used a 3/4 x 2" pipe with a 3/4" cap to fix it. You cut and re use the intake hose that goes from the air cleaner elbow to the air compressor, pull out the 1" pipe plug in the furthest bottom part of the intake aftercooler and do it like we did. I will also include some pics Jim sent me. (thanks again Jim) mod works great, air tanks fill so fast(under boost) that it makes me double check to make sure I am not seeing things. A must have in my opinion. First three are mine, last three are Jims.

 

[R Racing]

I'm Glad this helped Eldgen !! I have noticed alot of trucks don't have this Mod , And with filling 3 air tanks and having air brakes and air shift I see it as a must have. Its unreal how fast the truck will build air going down the road under boost when it has a little help from the turbo

 

[eldgenb]

Air Dryer

Well after doing the turbo compressor mod I developed a fluttering air loss problem coming from my air dryer, this prompted me to rebuild it since I had no idea how long it had been since it had been done. It is relatively simple, the dryer is a Bendix AD-2 and all of the parts were available at my local class 8 parts store for around $40. I did a new purge valve kit, dryer canister and bendix emergency bypass valve which is located on the back of the dryer. After rebuilding everything the flutter was still there so I determined that with the increase in fuel and boost that I was on the verge of hitting 150 psi while under boost, the fix, plug the port that the emergency purge is located on the back. The main tank has an additional bypass valve so it was redundant in my opinion. Enjoy

 

[flametamer]

Well, I may very well the first person in the world to actually post a picture of where these items are and how to do it... What this thread is about it how to drill and adjust the fuel screw on the NTC 400 found in the m915 series trucks...

We have a M915A1 but the fuel pump is different(newer?) on ours. It looks like the one in the last pic in post 96. Any ideas?


Dt

 

[R Racing]

There the same pump, The picture of the last you talk about is mine. Just mine looks cleaner . LOL