Beat me too it....There the same pump, The picture of the last you talk about is mine. Just mine looks cleaner . LOL
I was just going to post, that you keep your's cleaner.
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Beat me too it....There the same pump, The picture of the last you talk about is mine. Just mine looks cleaner . LOL
Mine engine is also black and filthy...I wasn't insinuating anything...Yeah, mine is also painted black, it all looks the same.... and a little dirt never killed anyone
that's interesting since air does not pass through the pump, and as far as I know it had nothing do do with the amount of air that goes into the cylinders, I always thought that was what the turbo was for.... What is also interesting is that pump mechanic at my local Cummins northwest repair center is the one who provided me with the shims and the step by step for turning up the fuel and shimming the Gov springs. Fuel button sizes down the hole on the return line to slow the flow of returning fuel which increases line pressure for the injectors. I appreciate your .02 but wrong information on an open forum can mess people and their equipment up pretty bad, I am not careless enough to make a thread like this without doing all of my research up front.The screw that you are adjusting is not for fuel it is the air ratio adjustment if you want to do the fuel you have to put a different size button in the pump
from what I have gathered 14's are the most common in the stock application, you can go down 5 from stock and be pretty safe. The fuel adjustment through the shaft is easily adjustable and free, if you turn it up too much and are getting excessive smoke just use a small screw driver and turn it down, if you change the button you are taking the entire governor assembly apart and carrying a variety of fuel buttons to accommodate your different driving habits.I'd like to know what button #'s are being used in various engines.
ex-NHC 250 -#27
Nevermind. I wasn't looking hard enough. The air compressor already draws air from the turbo too.We have a M915A1 but the fuel pump is different(newer?) on ours. It looks like the one in the last pic in post 96. Any ideas?
Dt
What's rated power for "stock"? I have a NHC250 w/turbo and no intercooler. I won't able to make the boost 400 does due to high charge temp. I'm looking for 290-300hp, that's assuming the EGT is ok. I may try a #20.from what I have gathered 14's are the most common in the stock application, you can go down 5 from stock and be pretty safe...
the jake brakeNevermind. I wasn't looking hard enough. The air compressor already draws air from the turbo too.
And what is the switch on the linkage for?
Dt
The thread is relative to the NTC400 not the NHC250 so stock refers to the 400hp cummins. Fuel and boost are directly related, the more fuel you put in the more boost the truck builds until it either maxes out the turbo's flow and most likely the egt's before that. I have no idea what it will do to and NHC250, my guess is send the temps through the roof unless you turbo it like yours and with no intercooler... be careful. I took mine out 4.5 turns, perfect!!What's rated power for "stock"? I have a NHC250 w/turbo and no intercooler. I won't able to make the boost 400 does due to high charge temp. I'm looking for 290-300hp, that's assuming the EGT is ok. I may try a #20.
I turned the throttle shaft screw 1-1/4 turns. Not much change.
This is how it works, the floor foot pedal switch on the mil. trucks is a dash switch on standard shift civi trucksDoes anyone know if the Jake is suppose to automatically dissengage after slowing to a low enough speed. I know on mine if you hold the pedal it will stall the engine out. just wasn't sure if this is how it is suppose to be or if something had been disconnected.
full turns still minimal smoke, excellent increase in power.Are those full turns Eldgen ? or 4 1/2 1/2 turns ?? Sorry but everyone seems to screw differently. LOL
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