• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Operation: Ethel. Kendelrios M37 (re)build thread

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,719
19,767
113
Location
Charlotte NC
That's what the assistant driver was for. To manually operate the windshield wiper! Yes sir. I know allllllllll about that!
.
Absolutely! It is so neat when you are expecting it AND if you have an assistant driver.

Accelerate (no wiper), let off & clutch in (wiper!) and repeat through the gears. Then do it again every time you start off - even on flat ground. :cool:
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,719
19,767
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Originally they had a vacuum booster built into the fuel pump to lessen the effect.

DDG
.
And controlling the vacuum on more modern vehicles was done with a plastic "ball" shaped device under the hood in the late 70's and early 80's so there was a place to store extra vac. Didn't work as well as it could have because of the overheated engine bay with all the smog crap on vehicles at that time. Plastic and thin rubber hoses that should have been reinforced with fiber in the hoses.
 

kendelrio

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,677
8,648
113
Location
Alexandria, La
And so it continues...

I found a solid cab, fenders and bed and headlights to replace the ones I have that have a touch (or more) of cancer and will be picking them up when I get in from offshore.

To prepare for swapping the bed out, I started removing the sides today. I know it's "easier" to remove it as one piece then disassemble, but as I am a one man operation, sometimes you have to improvise.....

I removed the diamond plate from the bed and realized the entire floor was gone.

20220125_122308.jpg

The diamond plate had been tack welded in place, so I cut access to the side wall bolts. In doing this, I realized the Phillips head screws were rusted 70 years in and to save them, the juice wasn't worth the squeeze, so out came the drill.....

20220125_144655.jpg

20220125_144703.jpg

I also learned how the tool box and covers are separate, so that rocks.....

I also realized the tire on the right back is going soft again. That will be something to investigate later.

One other lesson I was reminded of..... bolts that have been in place are stinking HOT when you take them off!!!!

Right now I have more bolts than batteries in my drill, so I'm letting them charge overnight and will finish the bed tomorrow and possibly start on removing the cab.

If anyone has any hints or suggestions, please feel free to share!
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,784
24,126
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
And so it continues...

I found a solid cab, fenders and bed and headlights to replace the ones I have that have a touch (or more) of cancer and will be picking them up when I get in from offshore.

To prepare for swapping the bed out, I started removing the sides today. I know it's "easier" to remove it as one piece then disassemble, but as I am a one man operation, sometimes you have to improvise.....

I removed the diamond plate from the bed and realized the entire floor was gone.

View attachment 856953

The diamond plate had been tack welded in place, so I cut access to the side wall bolts. In doing this, I realized the Phillips head screws were rusted 70 years in and to save them, the juice wasn't worth the squeeze, so out came the drill.....

View attachment 856954

View attachment 856955

I also learned how the tool box and covers are separate, so that rocks.....

I also realized the tire on the right back is going soft again. That will be something to investigate later.

One other lesson I was reminded of..... bolts that have been in place are stinking HOT when you take them off!!!!

Right now I have more bolts than batteries in my drill, so I'm letting them charge overnight and will finish the bed tomorrow and possibly start on removing the cab.

If anyone has any hints or suggestions, please feel free to share!
Beer. You may need a beer. It cools off the hand, quickly.

Looks good ken!
 

juanprado

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,614
2,923
113
Location
Metairie/La (N'awlins)
And so it continues...

I found a solid cab, fenders and bed and headlights to replace the ones I have that have a touch (or more) of cancer and will be picking them up when I get in from offshore.

To prepare for swapping the bed out, I started removing the sides today. I know it's "easier" to remove it as one piece then disassemble, but as I am a one man operation, sometimes you have to improvise.....

I removed the diamond plate from the bed and realized the entire floor was gone.

View attachment 856953

The diamond plate had been tack welded in place, so I cut access to the side wall bolts. In doing this, I realized the Phillips head screws were rusted 70 years in and to save them, the juice wasn't worth the squeeze, so out came the drill.....

View attachment 856954

View attachment 856955



I also realized the tire on the right back is going soft again. That will be something to investigate later.


If anyone has any hints or suggestions, please feel free to share!
Probably tube is leaking. I would not even try to patch as that old, they will just fall apart or give you headaches down the road. I would spend the extra few dollars and replace the flap at the same time. Probably the hardest challenge will be to find old school hd truck shop that will work on them. Not sure if you have a southern tire close by but they will work on them.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
16,784
24,126
113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
Buy the right tools and learn to do your own lock-ring wheels.

Not rocket science, just good aim with the duckbill and know where to hit it. Then pry it apart.

Be ready to sweat and grunt a lot, but it is SO satisfying to get it done.

DG
This was one of the Things I had my problem soldiers do, when we had a difference of opinion. Sometimes I had to go as far as all 10 tires on the 5 ton. But that was rare. It was a hard learned lesson for me in the 70's, and still worked in the 80-90's for my soldiers.
 

kendelrio

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,677
8,648
113
Location
Alexandria, La
Buy the right tools and learn to do your own lock-ring wheels.

Not rocket science, just good aim with the duckbill and know where to hit it. Then pry it apart.

Be ready to sweat and grunt a lot, but it is SO satisfying to get it done.

DG
Ok... I know all of those words were English... but I have no idea what you're talking about! 😂
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,719
19,767
113
Location
Charlotte NC
This was one of the Things I had my problem soldiers do, when we had a difference of opinion. Sometimes I had to go as far as all 10 tires on the 5 ton. But that was rare. It was a hard learned lesson for me in the 70's, and still worked in the 80-90's for my soldiers.
.
What is amazing is the guys who know how to use a duckbill hammer make it look so easy.
Those soldiers who needed remedial learning - not as much - and they worked much harder!
 

CGarbee

Well-known member
2,473
562
113
Location
Raleigh, NC
Probably tube is leaking. I would not even try to patch as that old, they will just fall apart or give you headaches down the road. I would spend the extra few dollars and replace the flap at the same time. ...
The tire appears to be a Michelin, so hopefully, the previous owner replaced the stock tube with a new radial tube when the tire was installed and used a fresh flap when doing so... If so, Ken might get lucky and be able to patch his and move on...

I have a few good Michelin tubes/flaps in my stash since I run 900r16 Michelin XZL on my Cummins powered M37...
Sadly, my "go to supplier" closed their doors a few years ago, so my stock is low...
Does anyone have a line on quality radial tubes and flaps for use with 900r16 and 1100r16 tires?
 

G744

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,716
3,849
113
Location
Hidden Valley, Az
My tire guy Steve sells for Southern Tire Mart at attractive rates.

He has supplied me with 20" tubes & flaps for everything up to 14.00-20's.

They also supply tire tools for doing lockring (split-rim, the wrong name anyway) wheels.

Can ship those items needed anywhere in the USA.

520-840-7316

DG
 
Last edited:

kendelrio

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,677
8,648
113
Location
Alexandria, La
My tire guy Steve sells for Southern Tire Mart at attractive rates.

He has supplied me with 20" tubes & flaps for everything up to 14.00-20's.

They also supply tire tools for doing lockring (split-rim, the wrong name anyway) wheels.

Can ship those items needed anywhere in the USA.

520-840-7316

DG
Thanks for the heads up!
 

cucvmule

collector of stuff
1,155
591
113
Location
Crystal City Mo
Starting the recovery process...

First gotta get stuff outta the way!

View attachment 855650

View attachment 855651

Hooking up...
View attachment 855652



View attachment 855654

Out and ready... to bring home...

View attachment 855655

View attachment 855656

View attachment 855658

Here's the power plant...

View attachment 855659

And of course the girls needed a glamor shot...

View attachment 855660

I am way behind on this thread, no more will that happen.

What a score! I need to look into more brushpiles.
 

cucvmule

collector of stuff
1,155
591
113
Location
Crystal City Mo
The weather cooperated and I was able to get some things done.

Removed the rearview mirrors, windshield, doors, rear fenders, troop seats and hood.

In the process of getting under the dash to take off the windshield/vacuum tube for the wipers, I found the cowl vent has been bondoed over! 😳

Probably gonna need a new cab.... 🤷‍♂️

Probably Wednesday I'll be pulling the bed....

View attachment 856775

View attachment 856776
View attachment 856776

View attachment 856777

View attachment 856778

View attachment 856779

View attachment 856780

The parts pile...

View attachment 856781

And weather covering

View attachment 856782
Great progress!

I have always used hand tools when working on old rusted fasteners. Usually I will pre soak a day or two before loosening. And depending on my experience with that fastener maybe several times.

Galling the threads ruins more useable fasteners, and if you can not replace then a substitute has to be used. I will attempt to break free a small amount and reapply lubricant. I will try again and wrench a small amount more and retighten. Continuing more revolutions without creating to much seizing. Breaking off welded nuts, shearing bolts off on blind access areas is not fun for removal but now to fix the area damaged, if you have enough metal to weld the new nut on.

Working the threads back and forth, lubricating as you go will save most if not all fasteners. Applied heat works also to break the bond, seizing, either on fastener or the metal surrounding the bolt to gain more tolerance, clearance, depending on the situation.

Electrical material suppliers will have star washer's, serrated types, round, clipped also. I still use them on every ground cable, with anti seize. My local farm general store has different kinds for farm implements also.

I am rambling....everyone has their own way of saving time or headaches. But airtools and impacts I only use for certain things.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks