Ouverson Lock outs HEAVY DUTY SEALED 575 bucks!!

[hot rod deuce]

Alright so i got a deal worked out and i can get a quantity of overson lock out hubs (O.E.M. brand). They are the cast ones, he stoped making the billet ones because the cast hold up just as good. He told me he would waranty them, provided you dont bang them on a rock or somehting. They sell for 600 all day but i can offer them to S.S. Members ONLY for a lower price of 575 bucks a pair+shipping. I can also use them for trading stock if any one has any 1600's or most anything they think i can use (gun mounts, guns, bombs(?), tools). If your interested post or pm. if no one is willing i wont go through with it but if i can get a few sets sold ill drive up and grab a bunch(just a short drive away so i can save shipping to me).

Thanks
-Tony

 

[spicergear]

I have had these lockouts and Selectros both apart side by side on a bench. These ARE a heavy duty hub. They have better sealing. They have a LOT more axle spline engagement. More rigid construction. NO plastic parts.

Okay...so in fairness- the Selectro is a little bit lower profile, and I have beaten a set on my rockwelled and big blocked M715 for a couple years with 46" XML's and through Top Truck Challenge. They are by no means a slouch- but the Ouverson units are better bang for the buck.

 

[rizzo]

I wonder how much your fuel mileage changes with lockouts on and disengaged?????

 

[rdixiemiller]

Mine went up almost 1mpg when I installed de-splined hubs. Putting in a double splined rear axle and a lockout on one rear wheel will gain some mpg, and greatly reduce tire scrub when turning. I believe Bjorn and Kenny have tighter turning radii with that setup.

 

[cranetruck]

For highway driving, I would highly recommend that the rear interaxle drive shaft is removed. It reduces the turning radius and tire scrubbing (=wear) in the front. Single rear tires will reduce the turning radius even more.
With my current set-up, the curb-curb turning circle is reduced by about ten feet compared to the original duals configuration.

The front freewheeling hubs are also nice, BUT with only one driving axle in the rear, you may often have to engage the front wheel drive for help (gravel road, pulling back out on the road after a stop in wet grass and even making it over a speed bump in a parking lot!). I keep my fronts standard.
The drawback with only one driving axle is that those tires wear a lot faster than the other tires.

 

[hot rod deuce]

My plan is to put one set on the front and the other on the first rear with a pair of double spline axles. I usualy run down the road with the front axle lifted up anyway so i will only be turning the diff and synthetic oil. As soon as i get my center steer axle in ill just put the hubs on it and swap the new axles back one axle with plain drive hubs. Hopfuly this will make the axle i use the most a little more reliable. Seeing i put ALL the tourqe AND all the weight back there all by itsself . SO in doing this i hope to get almost the same efficeny as a bob-ed truck but with all six wheels. Now all i need is a power divider of some sort and im set.

Remco makes a drive shaft disconcet that is cable operated from the cab that will disconect a shaft via a spline coupler. It is used in the towing department. I thought this would be a neat gizmo to have between the tandems,but at around 850+ im not sure how soon i will be getting one.

One other plan was a gear box just like the old GMC transfer case. then disconect the lower gear to my front tandem. Kinda like an air shift transfercase in backwards.


Hey spicer thanks for hte sales pitch!

 

[rdixiemiller]

Remco makes a drive shaft disconcet that is cable operated from the cab that will disconect a shaft via a spline coupler. It is used in the towing department. I thought this would be a neat gizmo to have between the tandems,but at around 850+ im not sure how soon i will be getting one.

A link to Remco?

 

[1ton]

If i wasn't a nice person i would just say Google it
http://www.remcotowing.com/drive.asp

 

[readyman]

HRD,
So I can use the Ouverson Lock out on my rear tandem axle then?

 

[spicergear]

HRD, no problem. Randy O' is a good guy. I've been running his double spline rear alloy axle shafts and allow drive flanges on the back of that big M715 for a while now. VERY nice parts from fit to finish.

Readyman, you need to put in at least one of the double spline rear axle shafts to be able to unlock the rear or two and two lockouts to completely unlock it.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Tom, you need to scrap those pesky non sealing beat up Selectros and step up to the Ouversons. You can send the scrap Selectros to my house at ............

 

[rdixiemiller]

I looked at the Remco driveshaft disconnect. Funny, I was designing the same setup myself, although with a different shifting mechanism.
Just goes to show there's nothing new under the Sun.
At least it validates my concept. The Remco product uses sealed roller or ball brgs. because the driveshaft is turning and the tranny is in park. That means a lot of constant turning. The unit I have designed uses a modified deuce interaxle driveshaft, with bronze bushings. I can get away with bushings as there will be very little relative motion between the sections of driveshaft. I am also planning on using an air cylinder to engage the rear axle. This way I can use a standard military airshift t-case shift switch and light. I think that will look better than a cable, and be easier to hook up.
Flip the switch, engage the rear driving axle.

 

[hot rod deuce]

Yup thats what ive been playin with. Dont forget the guy that dosent lock it in but decided to spin the heck out of it. NOW you need ball bearings. As usual i gota take it one step further, i want to be able to select front or rear tandem. the biggest thing is i need my rear to drive and not he front if i want to run with one up.

 

[wallew]

Has ANYONE tried using double roller bearings? I found they made a HUGE difference on my Harley. I was told they didn't exist for my bike.

WRONG!

So, I think it's time for a little research. These are SEALED double roller bearings. They last forever, IF properly maintained. Checked and cleaned off every 25000 miles so that 'bad things' can't get into the seals and then contaminate the double rollers.

 

[rdixiemiller]

Actually, a bronze oilite bushing is good for years of service. The reason I am using bushings is because it allows me to modify stock deuce driveshaft parts, not to have to build new ones.
I am mainly building something for those of us who spend most of their time on the road, and only need to engage the rear tandem for speed bumps, etc. I am not building something up for hard core mudders, too much maintenance for them. They would be better off with double splined axles and lockouts.

 

[hot rod deuce]

yes sealed doubles would be perfect! Look for a Fan Hub bearing in a 5.9 cummins. thats about the right size and easy to find. about 50 bucks at the local bearing supply house. Like he said i wouldnt be scared of broze plus they could be much smaller. Stick a greese zerk on it and go. probably more reliable. Besides the pilot bearing in your flywheel only gets lubed once then its "self lubercating"

 

[readyman]

HRD, rdixiemiller,

Started working a little on my intershaft disconnect, which 'in concept' was the same as yours.(Us genius's think alike) What were you gonna do with the spline key? Were you going to go a full rotation until the key meets the groove, to engage?

Looks like if the 6 inch inner splined part is a perfect engage length for the 2 3inch splined shafts. And what are you allowing for the normal travel during axle movement? An inch or two?

 

[hot rod deuce]

Just like the splined coupler in your transmisinon.

http://www.remcotowing.com/PDF INST...S/DSC Instructions.cover.warranty2004vers.pdf

check that link out...i think im going to buy one of them and put an air shifter on it. Then as soon as randy gets my lock outs done they will go on the front and rear axles. the whole rear will get disconected (hubs and all) for long distance and just the drive shaft for short runs

 

[rdixiemiller]

I keep seeing the Remco units on E-Bay, sometimes around $100. I may just keep an eye out for one of them. At that price, it is hard to beat.
I was planning on using the splined section off a couple of deuce driveshafts along with a slip yoke to couple them together. Take a die grinder and taper the edges of the splines so they would easily slip into the yoke section when engaging. Using this spline setup means you should be able to engage without having to turn the driveshaft, there should be enough slack in the pinion to allow the small amount of rotation.
I was planning on having the stock slip yoke assembly on one end for driveshaft length changes while the suspension articulated. The coupling would be at the other end of the shaft.
Remember, on a deuce you are talking very little relative movement while driving. Going down a normal stretch of road, you are probably looking at 1-2 rpm differential motion at the most. This is why the Remco unit is really overkill for us, as it is designed for 2000 rpm for extremely long periods of time.
Not that overkill is a bad thing.....
I also wonder what the torque limit is on the Remco.

 

[readyman]

rdixiemiller,

I gotta get some pics to you guys.
Yup, I got the splined section apart and there's one double wide spline and one double wide groove in the assm! That means there will be only one way for the shaft to engage, every 360 degrees. Hobbing out the doublewide spline would allow immediate engagement, otherwise it's every 360 degrees.

Using two driveshafts all the dimensions look pretty good for the design. Cut and weld the splined shaft to the u-joint yoke where the splined socket was, at a glance dimensions look good. Air actuator and a guide tube, hmmm.

Do you think the spline moves in and out very much?

HRD don't you think the Remco looks too civilian for this HD application.