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Painting the M813

jeeplvr247

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Once the weather warms up I am going to have a crack at painting the M813. I already have the patterns and I think I will free hand the CARC 3 color. There is quite a bit of surface rust on the truck and I am going to use an industrial strength power washer to take off all the loose paint and loose rust. I was thinking about buying the wand that will allow me to feed aggregate into the stream to take it down to bare, shiny metal. Is that necessary? I do not want to make extra work for myself if I do not have to.
Also if I simply power wash it to knock off the loose stuff should I do a layer of primer?
In the TMs I noticed that they say 1.5 gallons of paint for a five ton. I have not done much painting but that does not seem like a large amount. If a buy 1 gallon of primer, 1 gallon of CARC green, 1 quart of brown, 1 quart of black, and a gallon of thinner will that cover me for two coats of everything?
Below is a picture of the back of the truck where the rust is the worse so you can get an idea of what I am working with.

Thanks, If this goes well then I will start sand blasting my m38a1 and get her ready for fresh paint. I have counted 7 layers on that one already so my gas mileage will probably go way up after I take all that weight off :)
 

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Scarecrow1

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Well it seems like you have a lot of work ahead of you . You may want to use a rust converter on it just to be sure you don't spend all your time and money only to have it flake off again. . Oh and about the fuel mileage increase :) If you wax it I'm sure you should get another 2 or 3 MPG out of her too..............:)
 

clinto

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I'd blast that. A pressure washer just won't be sufficient.

Also, ignoring the rust, the base has to be prepared in some way in order for paint or primer to stick. The surface has to have some "tooth" for the coating to stick to. Washing it won't prepare the base sufficiently.
 
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jeeplvr247

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Will washing it with the aggregate give it enough tooth for the primer to bind to the surface? Should I go with a rustoleum primer rather than the Rapco?
 

Heath_h49008

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Are you blasting it, going grinder and twisted wire cup brush, or trying a needle gun...? (I'm guessing chemical strippers are out of the question.)

Blasting would leave a fine surface, grinder/needlegun should as well. What is the surface concern?

I was planning on using Rustoleum Rusty metal primer myself, just because of the guys on here and because it's the old standby for the farm equipment. But then again, I'm using Behr and not Rapco.

Subscribed.
 

swbradley1

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I pressure wash, scrub a little with a wire brush on the really bad spots and use Rustoleum Red Primer and spray it with Rapco 383. I'm building or driving a watch and the trucks still look better than when they came out of service. I even leave the runs from the soldiers painting them with a rag or paper towels. The rust patches on the cab are MIG welded on, not some fancy, spent days on patch that is blended in to look new. I want my truck to look like it is used and driven.

But that's just me.

Yours has a little more rust on it and will probably require a little more work.
 

jeeplvr247

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Thanks for the input. Am I pretty close on the quantity of paint that I will need for the job? Also, how long do you leave between coats of the CARC before you apply another layer?
 

ryan77

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I would just get a da sander with some 40 grit and a angle grinder with a wire wheel $5 bucks from Menards and go to town!!
 

jeeplvr247

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I would figure 2 gals of green carc 1/2 gal black and 1/2 gal brown!!
I thought my numbers sounded a little low. I think they were for people painting over a faded coat. If I took the old paint off with an angle grinder, the side I started on would be rusted away by the time I finished the other side. I had a lot of rust on the inside of my jeeps wheels so I wire brushed them with a bench grinder, it took over a half hour per rim.
 

ryan77

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I thought my numbers sounded a little low. I think they were for people painting over a faded coat. If I took the old paint off with an angle grinder, the side I started on would be rusted away by the time I finished the other side. I had a lot of rust on the inside of my jeeps wheels so I wire brushed them with a bench grinder, it took over a half hour per rim.
Thats the amount i used when i did my deuce! I also used a self etching primer as a base about 20 cans! I use sherwin williams carc on all my junk projects! Always comes out good! Once it dries its tough as nails!! Heres a before snd after!!
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1358130230.825072.jpgImageUploadedByTapatalk1358130275.668427.jpg
 

Heath_h49008

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Heath_h49008

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Nope. It's a GP from PWMall.com.

I'm pushing 4 gpm though, pressure doesn't matter nearly as much as volume when estimating the work ability of a pressure washer.

If I recall it was $105. But these allow for adjust-ability in sand flow rates and it will take replaceable water and sand nozzles, so it can be fine tuned. I'm planning on trying soda (Armex) myself when I do my Fairlane.http://pwmall.com/s-20734-wet-sand-blaster.aspx
 
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Carlo

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Well it seems like you have a lot of work ahead of you . You may want to use a rust converter on it just to be sure you don't spend all your time and money only to have it flake off again. . Oh and about the fuel mileage increase :) If you wax it I'm sure you should get another 2 or 3 MPG out of her too..............:)
3 words...Rust Converter First
 
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