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Papabear said "I'm getting worried about you"

patracy

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I am intimately acquainted and highly skilled with placing my foot in my mouth. I do it on a routine basis.
 

Speddmon

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Peg legging! Everybody makes fun of the amputee! Even the admin. I can't get a break!



You know I'm kidding right? Just couldn't pass on that one. Too funny!:p
I always thought you looked a bit like Rodney Dangerfield. I can't get no respect!!!!!
 

patracy

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Back to the topic at hand...

Lighting is working once more correctly. But the clutch is still unhappy. Better, but still not happy. It grabs in low gears, but I can slip it 3-5 with WOT. Guess the cleaning only got half the disc. I guess I'm going to start pulling it down to see what I'm working with. :?

Brakes are good though.
 

Danger Ranger

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Better to be able to stop than be able to start right? Just remember we want pictures...otherwise keep it up. I am sure that truck will look good in no time. :driver:
 

patracy

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Got the transmission pulled tonight. Flywheel and pressure plate cleaned up. I'm not going to risk the disc. I've hit it with brake cleaner, but it's really soaked. There's still black oily residue coming out of it. And the pucks look a little flaked up.

I pulled the flywheel out as well. No oil on the backside of it. There appears to have been some oil leaking into the housing from the studs inside. The rear main doesn't look that bad. I'm going to silicone up the studs inside when I put it back together. I'll probably replace the rear main as well.

I think the input of the transmission is leaking as well. I turned the trans with the output pointing upwards. I let it sit for ~5 mins. I noticed a little gear oil dripping down the input. The throw out bearing is also pretty oily as well.
 

Tow4

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Put the clutch disc in some gasoline. That will float all the oil out. After you let it sit for a day or two, spray it down with brake cleaner. Then hit it with a DA (sander) to scuff it up and see if it looks OK. If you are not sure, replace the disc.
 

patracy

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Ok Tossed it in a pan of gasoline. I see it's already started to clean up. I need to mic it. I believe min. thickness is .350"

I also got to looking, I think it "should" have leaked a little oil from the input shaft when I had it straight up. There's a vent hole on the housing. Behind the retainer. Oil naturally should have came out then. I think if I would have had oil all over the input shaft when I stood it up, the input bearing seal would have been bad.

View attachment 196466 View attachment 196467

I'm thinking about just trying to throw it all back together once it's cleaned up. If the disc measures out in spec. It was holding, and given the amount of oil, I'm surprised it was able to hold as much as it did.
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

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Drew,
I don't recall where I read it, or who might have "educated" me, but I understand that an overfilled tranny can "drain" it's excess into the bell housing and be mis-read as a rear seal problem on the engine.
How full was your tranny?
...and...
Is my knowledge-base correct or flawwed?

Thanks.
John
 

Speddmon

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Drew,
I don't recall where I read it, or who might have "educated" me, but I understand that an overfilled tranny can "drain" it's excess into the bell housing and be mis-read as a rear seal problem on the engine.
How full was your tranny?
...and...
Is my knowledge-base correct or flawwed?

Thanks.
John

No, I don't think you're thinking is flawed. There are several of us who had that problem. But as I understand it, they used 2 types of input bearings in the transmissions. A "shielded" cage kind as can be seen in Drews Pics and an "open" cage. The open cage ones are supposed to be the ones notorious for leaking gear lube past the screwback and bearing.
 

patracy

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Actually those pics were robbed from another post. I'll have to pull mine apart tomorrow to see what I have. But I supsect I have the shielded ones given what little leaked out. The transmission oil level wasn't that high. But then again I was checking it on the ground with me holding it upright. So I might be off.
 

patracy

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Ok left the clutch in gas overnight. It cleaned up better than it did yesterday. I'll let ya'll judge if I should run it. I think it's ok though. I also checked the rear main. No leaking from there. I'm starting to think the oil is from all the valve cover leaks (it's bad!). I can see where there's a path coming down in from the starter. (As well as the studs before I cleaned them) I guess having the plug in finally allowed enough to collect causing the issue. I guess the long drive at speed is what did it in. The pressure plate and flywheel are ready to go.
 

Attachments

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

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Ok left the clutch in gas overnight. It cleaned up better than it did yesterday. I'll let ya'll judge if I should run it. I think it's ok though. I also checked the rear main. No leaking from there. I'm starting to think the oil is from all the valve cover leaks (it's bad!). I can see where there's a path coming down in from the starter. (As well as the studs before I cleaned them) I guess having the plug in finally allowed enough to collect causing the issue. I guess the long drive at speed is what did it in. The pressure plate and flywheel are ready to go.
IMHO:
You now know "the condition of your ship."

If it's worth it to you to slap it back together and run it - then go for it. On the other hand, if you're going to be racking up lots of clutch wear in a short while, and don't want to have to repeat your labors, then I'd be shopping for some new parts.

However, in my case, I don't torture the clutch, and don't often put heavy loads on it, so I would do a quick reassembly and run it with "routine" inspections through the inspection plates to monitor wear.... I'd squeeze every bit of wear out of those parts that they could afford me. Yet I'd also invest in a standby parts inventory as the wear gets more critical - Ready for an expedient clutch replacement when the need becomes imperative. (I'm basically CHEAP and don't want to "waste" any life that may be left in "consumable" parts.)

It seems you're able and willing to drop a tranny quickly - the labor, and repeating that labor, may be "no big deal" for you.
 

Speddmon

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The pucks look good, I would run it.

Don't leave out the possibility that the transmission input shaft could be your leaking oil. Mine never did it until after a few hours running almost WOT.
 

patracy

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There's still some life left to the clutch. I'm not rough on clutches by any means. (I had a Toyota truck once that I bought with ~30K miles. I sold it with 180K miles with the same clutch, which I assume was the factory one)

Having a wrecker makes heavy lifting easy...:drool:
 

patracy

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The pucks look good, I would run it.

Don't leave out the possibility that the transmission input shaft could be your leaking oil. Mine never did it until after a few hours running almost WOT.
I did get a drip of transmission oil when I tipped it on it's end from sitting for ~5 minutes. But I attribute that to the drain port. If the transmission had the "wrong" bearing up front, I should have had a ton of oil coming out. I had thought about plugging that port. But should the bearing seal fail, that certainly would lead to oil coming out the input.
 

plym49

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I agree that there is plenty of life left in that clutch disk. But, since it is already apart, I would replace it. The flywheel and pressure plate look like new. Why take it apart again some day? What is, some day, those pucks decide to fly apart?

Plus, more puck area than you would think has already flaked away, reducing the 'flat' area that contacts the flywheel and pressure plate, so that disc will show accelerated wear from here on out since all of the load goes through a reduced surface area.

This is just the way I am, and I would replace it since it is apart.
 
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