parts list for M 1009 advice welcome.......

[alltheway82nd]

I have recently bought my M1009 it is in N.C....It was bought from an Estate sale...the truck had been registered and upon installing batteries it runs and lot drives. I am currently getting the tags so it can get driven by my brother to see how it does....I am going to fly down and drive it back to Michigan in July...As I am now compiling a list of parts I am going to buy I will put out what I have so far and if anyone has any input as to where or what brand to buy let me know...I plan to keep the vehicle for a Daily driver and it is still in its 24v config..
1.Transmission Filter,fluid and TH 400 oil pan to get a drain plug and added capacity
2.Key/lock set TBD upon inspection if it still military I will
change for security(how can you tell?)
3.Engine oil filter,glow plugs( 60G AC Delco?),spare alternator,harmonic balancer w new bolts,starter bolts,belts goodyear ( p/ns 15491-15551 and 15461)vacuum hoses ,radiator cap,fuel filter(original block type and add an in-line?)fuel pump, air filter, extra fuses, starter relay, wiper blades axle vents
If you think of any thing to add or a good part number or source to use I am looking for your 2 cents as well as searching to forum..I will be shipping some tools to there in advance so as to be able to facilitate the work there..
Thanks in advance for any advice and if you need some thing from N.C. to MI in July let me know and If it will fit I will try to help out...As I am going to get some extra rust free body parts and a rear seat if I have time to bring back..Larry

 

[cucvrus]

Sounds good to me. I buy them and drive them home all the time not knowing a thing about them. I have a bit more experience with CUCV's then most people. But that is a loaded question. These guys will have you changing a lot of not needed changes. I do not see new batteries on the list. That would be the first thing I would put in it. If I knew nothing else about the truck except that it ran. I would put new batteries in it. Check all the fluids start it check the tires, tire pressures and check again for leaks and drive it home. I would do the work once I got it home. You ever hear of the saying "if it ain't broke don't fix it"? You could do all that work in NC and still have problems. Better yet create more problems just by doing the work. My opinion.? You are asking for it. New batteries check the fluids and the tires. Fill it with fuel and drive it home. I done it hundreds of times. For real hundreds of times. I only broke down once about 20 miles from home after driving it for 700 miles. The injection pump gave out. Now how could I have foreseen that. Get my point? And of course I had a few tires blow out. Tires are not on your list. This is just my opinion. Do as you wish. But if I have a fine running vehicle. I just let it be a fine running vehicle. I never changed a harmonic balancer on any of my vehicles ever. I never had one fail or come loose. Just to go out and buy one and change it ???? Where do you stop? I do brakes change entire brake systems, change all fluids,filters and axle seals,pressure test the cooling system. And if the truck starts and runs well I may check over other things visually. But only replace parts when I suspect/know they are failing. That is my 10 cents. Happy Holidays.

 

[tim292stro]

Congratulations on the buy, I just got mine in August.

If it runs and doesn't leak I'd try to drive it as stock more than doing work on it out in unfamiliar territory.

It's a 30 year old truck (there-abouts), anything rubber and fluid seals are likely to be shot unless they were replaced in the last 5 years. It's a good bet that if the truck has been sitting for a while it'll start leaking once you get it moving a bit. A truck that sits for a long time will probably have tire issues on the open highway, so keep an eye on that - my M1009 came with 11 year old tires, and one of those in the front had a nasty flat-spot and wobble up until it blew out in traffic (city traffic mind you).

Easiest way to check for being keyed for the common key is to try one , not hard to re-key if you have to, ignition cylinder, two door cylinders and the rear window crank - can be done for less than $100 and two hours time.

I would recommend holding off on the modifications like tranny pan until after you get it home. Get the truck to a place that can do a fluid change (engine, transmission, transfer case, both diffs, coolant). If it doesn't leak and doesn't burn oil you'll be in good shape. Change your filters (engine oil, tranny, engine air) and make sure you clean out any critter nests - some times they like your cowl, interior fan, or the engine air filter housing...

Bring a multi-meter and a battery load tester, you're going to want to ensure it's charging, and the batteries are going to get the truck started every time you stop on the way back. I wouldn't pre-buy batteries unless you need them...

As important as getting going, is stopping. Double check your brake pads, and make sure your rotors clear up any surface rust after a few hard stops. Make sure you carry extra brake fluid. Make sure your parking brake is doing what it's supposed to (holding when set, releasing when unset - dragging brakes suck).

These GMs have their electrical gremlins - expect to spend some time cleaning grounds to get everything working right (light, wipers, etc...). A tube of No-Ox-Id goes a long ways towards keeping that stuff happy. Pay attention to the fuel gauge before and after you get fuel - some can be way out of whack. The gauge on mine shows 150% full until it's about 1/4 above empty then it sweeps the entire range from full to empty in about an 1/8th of a tank - if you're not paying attention you could be re-priming an injection pump on the side of the road...

Make sure the bolts holding the suspension to the vehicle are still in good shape

And take lots of pictures, we like pictures

 

[alltheway82nd]

Thanks for the input.....I know the batteries are new as I got it without any..my brother put in 2 new ones and has told me the tires look pretty new......I am going to drive it a few days and then if it looks good I will hit the highway what's a Good highway speed for a M1009?

 

[cucvrus]

That is a trick question. Is the truck equipped with stock gears? And do you know it has good tires and drive-line? I drive an M1008 and an M1009 daily. I drive both the same about 65-70 on the interstate. Sometime 75-80. I have no issues with either. Both have good tires and are well maintained. the M1008 engine screams. But I have been screaming them engines for over 20 years with no failures from the highway speeds. Others will disagree but I have been doing it with out failure. M1009 is as fast as any civilian truck. 3:08 gears are really high gearing for a truck. But they work well for me in all conditions.

 

[tim292stro]

I was going to answer: the posted speed limit

Whatever you're comfortable with up to that limit. Like a new human girlfriend, you kind of have to be very attentive and on your best behavior until you figure out what "your new girl" likes and what you can get away with.

 

[AZK9]

I have recently bought my M1009 it is in N.C... ....

Congrats on your new truck!

Sounds like you're in the process of performing the proper 'due diligence' in
preparation for getting the truck home successfully. Seeking out advice and
applying what seems to be the best in your particular situation is a good path
to be on.

From what I've read of your posts so far... I'm thinking that maybe the truck
will be at your brother's place. In my mind that means you'll have a good,
secure place to perform any work you determine is required before your trip
home to Michigan. If that's the case... it's certainly a lot better than trying to
get work done in some 'unfamiliar' parking lot, or on the side of the road
someplace.

Whatever your situation... I wish you the best in your efforts to get the truck
highway ready, so you can enjoy a safe, fun adventure from NC to MI!

 

[AZK9]

I was going to answer: the posted speed limit

Whatever you're comfortable with up to that limit. ...

Yup! What Tim said!

 

[alltheway82nd]

I have the feeling my brother will willing give it a test ride or few when I get the tags back from SOS Michigan....So I will take my time going back and it should be fine ..My wife reluctantly declined to go on this road trip but I know shes really jealous and will miss the chance to drive a long road trip with no radio, just the hum of exhaust and tires !! will update you all in July!!

 

[tim292stro]

You're forgetting the roar of a diesel V8 at freeway speeds

 

[NovacaineFix]

I have to agree with both CUCVRUS & tim292stro, I would hold off on any mod's until getting home.
Just do like CUCVRUS says, go through the safety items that will enable you to drive it home or at least determine if you can drive it home. If it won't make it 10 miles down the road without major issues, then it isn't going to get you several hundred miles.

Once you drive it and deem it safe for the journey, the only mod I would do, if you have the time for is a cigarette lighter power adapter to charge your cell phone and or accessories in case it does break down on you. Nothing like being stranded on the side of the road and have a cell phone that is completely dead.

Like the others have said, there are items on this truck that you're not going to be able to determine if it will make it or not. Just make sure you can go, you can stop, you have lights, wipers and for this time of the year, Heat! and you should be good.

I may not have as much experience with CUCV's as CUCVRUS, but I know Chevy trucks, once you get home, you're going to have a blast.

Good luck on the drive and keep us updated on the progress.

 

[Sergeant1983]

Biggest thing is just making sure you check for leaks along the way. I had my M1009 on its 1st long trip and the radiator sprung a leak. Radiator looked good and fluid was clean. But it was 30 years old to. I used stop leak to slow the flow until I got it back home. Also, it is rather loud being there is no sound suppressing materials built into the vehicle. As far as the key. If the same key fits the ignition and doors its original. If the door key and ignition are different, than its been re-keyed. Common original key also has a black plastic end

 

[cucvrus]

Common original key also has a black plastic end

Not true. The OEM keys were just plain common GM B blanks. No plastic back in the early 80's.

 

[Recovry4x4]

One thing I would keep on hand is a charged jump box. These can get you out of a world of hurt with a CUCV. Also know that as issued to the government, there are no convenience outlets for power. Plan on adding or having alternate power for phones etc.

 

[Sergeant1983]

I think you may be right about the plastic part. That is a key I have that fits many CUCVs. And mine until I switched mine out after my ignition switch gave out.
I know in 1985 our units CUCV keys had the plastic on them. But I was in West Germany, and they may of been copies. Not original. I think the ones stateside were plan metal ones. Been many years. Last one I drove in the military was 1994.