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Patracy's "SEMTT"

PETE BALLARD

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I get the drift. You wanted pics of a rats nest, you got em.

I didn't do anything today, it was after 8pm when I got home. Plus it's raining. Maybe tomorrow I'll get some more wiring knocked out. The wires hanging from the visors are ones to address later on (speedo, tach). I've still got a good deal to go. I did pick up a keyed starter switch that I'll be swapping in for the stock 931 starter switch. I'm thinking about trying the tach signal leads from the STE/ICE leads to the tach to see if I'm lucky. (Doubt it, but it's worth a try) Thought about trying to see if I can get a signal from the ABS system as well for the speedo. Again, doubt it, but why not try...

Oh and can I fit one of those engines in my CUCV?
those cat gold engine will re-power your build very nice, depending on you level of $$ pain you may be able to tie the speedo to the ABS system. Still, you are to be commended!! nice work!!
 

patracy

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Is that HUGE engine going in your semtt? Just kidding, what are you going to use that engine for or did you just see it on the side of the road? Its a monster!
those cat gold engine will re-power your build very nice, depending on you level of $$ pain you may be able to tie the speedo to the ABS system. Still, you are to be commended!! nice work!!
The engines were just at the local truck stop when I got gas Sunday. Just took a pic of them while I was there. I'm going to probably try the Dakota Digital route on the gauges. Just have to figure out how to tie into the ABS sensors without upsetting the ABS system. Worse comes to worse, I'll ditch that idea and just find a cable to VSS adapter (I think Dakota makes one as well).

Looking good. A label maker and some cable ties and you will be looking great
Yeah I've got cable ties. As far as labels, I'm reusing the factory labels where possible to make it look correct. I don't believe I'll have to change much of anything after I'm done label wise. Just some indicator lights/labels will just be there for "looks" LOL.
 

patracy

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Well I got my tracking notice for the parts that were to be here today. They'll be here monday. GRRRR

On the upside. My eBay cable came in at lunch. It's a little smaller (diameter) than the stock shifter cable, but two small tie wraps to wedge it in place seems to have it working well. It's still rainy and cold here. Maybe this evening I'll fab up an adapter plate for the shifter and get it installed. Maybe pull the hood headlight harness off as well.
 

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patracy

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Quick update, while I was waiting on this conf. call to start, I grabbed a piece of scrap sheetmetal and scribed a layout for the shifter adapter onto it. Probably hard to see the scribe marks from my cell phone pic. But since ya'll want pics...
 

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patracy

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Well scratch that plan folks. I make the bracket just fine, but the sheetmetal I used it's up to my standards (too thin). I'm going to use two small sections of angle steel to create brackets for the 931 shifter. There's just not enough room in the pocket on the sides for something substancial to hold up to the rocking of the shifter. The angle steel will be more suited for that with how I plan on mounting it.
 

patracy

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Well the shifter is mounted. I haven't connected it to the transmission yet though. Didn't want to sit in the mud. I started flipping the hood up to look at the harness. I guess I'm just going to leave it there. I thought maybe I could use the harness, but I'd just end up having to cut it all up and extend/redo a lot of it. I'm just going to run new wiring instead. The weather is supposed to improve the next few days. Hopefully I'll get more done.
 

patracy

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I think I found a simple means of having a speedo on the truck. This one won't care what the gearing or tire size is. It uses GPS.

http://andytach.com/shop2/index.php/gps-speedometer/atach-gps-speedometer-11.html

I'll have to measure the gauge when I get home this afternoon to see if these will fit. But again it's a KISS solution. No wonky sensor to figure out, it's already 24v compatible, and no calibration.

I'd like to have one of the black faced gauges, but they're a month out of production.
 

patracy

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Well I got a late start on it today due to work. And I've ran out of daylight. However, I've managed to install the shifter cable and confirm that the trans shifts through the gears as it should. Next I moved onto moving the master power switch and start/run/stop switch. They're located down on the MK48 dash where the two switches used to be. Also the start/run/stop switch is now a keyed switch. Next I moved onto the front turn signals. Both the turn signals are working properly. I also wired up the side indicator lights. Those are working correctly as well. The headlight dimmer switch and positive leads to the headlamps are wired in. I just need to ground them. I also rewired in the MK48 dash high and turn signal indicators.

Tomorrows goal is to get ALL wiring done and dressed. As well as pull the 931's column out and see if I can repurpose that shaft/mount as I played with in my mind. If so, I might have the steering completed tomorrow as well if things work out.

Once that's done, it's on to the headache of plumbing. And it has me worried....
 

patracy

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Well I've got almost all the wiring done. Tested the gauges, fuel and oil aren't compatible so I started swapping them out with the 931 gauges. As my luck would have it, the oil pressure gauge needle shattered when I removed the gauge. (Old, dry rotted I guess) So I'm just going to go pick up a mech oil pressure gauge. (KISS!) I did find out that the speedo cable has the same ends as the tach. So I'm going to install the mech tach into the dash. And use the GPS speedo when they come available in black. I've installed the STE/ICE port into the passenger side as well as the ABS diagnostic port as well. All lighting is wired, heater is wired as well. Also pulled the steering column out of the 931.

Off to get more parts!
 

patracy

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One step forwards, two steps backwards it would seem. The radiator has three pinhole leaks I caused during install. I'm going to pick up some solder and flux tomorrow and patch it. Glad I filled it with water first!

Next fiasco was the keyed starter switch. Piece of made in china CRAP! Stupid thing tried to make the truck act like a CUCV with a fried relay. I removed the $9 switch and used the MK48 switch instead for now. I'm going to search around for a QUALITY keyed switch. Starting has returned to normal now.

Also got the fuel gauge working with the old M931 gauge. The switch tank lever works as well. Mech oil pressure gauge is installed as well but I still need to plumb it into the engine. The mech tach is also working with the speedo cable great!

I had to figure out a way to illumniate the fuel and tach as they used the painted over bulb setup from the old dash. I picked up some LEDs from the auto parts store. (I felt like a high school kid buying crap for his crap car LOL) They do too well of a job really. When I pull the dash back out, I'll wire in a resistor.

Got started hacking up the steering shaft. I shortened it as close as possible to the slip joint. I just tack welded the shaft together for now. Tomorrow I'm going to start tearing apart the steering column to see if I can use it like I plan.
 

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patracy

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Sneaked out this AM before church to knock out a few more things on the steering since I've got to make another parts run. Looks like the steering column shaft will work perfectly. I haven't mic'ed it yet. But it's going to end up a press fit as I move it further down the shaft. (Way better than using a slip in keyed shaft) So the plan for today is to address the radiator and knock out the steering. I removed the splines from the shaft I cut down (with the blue slip joint). Slips over the keyed shaft output from the parrallel box now. I also widened the split. I've gotta pick up some 1/4" key tomorrow from the local mower repair shop. But the clamping bolt will also intercept the keyed shaft. So I'll be milling the keyed shaft for the bolt as well. (Imagine a cross shape being clamped down) Once I press the column into the gearbox, I'll tear the box down as well as the column shaft and remove the gear and shaft as a single assembly. Then the gear and shaft will be welded on both sides of the gear opening. It won't be going anywhere! Anyhow here's some pics.
 

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wreckerman893

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. I removed the splines from the shaft I cut down (with the blue slip joint). Slips over the keyed shaft output from the parrallel box now. I also widened the split. I've gotta pick up some 1/4" key tomorrow from the local mower repair shop. But the clamping bolt will also intercept the keyed shaft. So I'll be milling the keyed shaft for the bolt as well. (Imagine a cross shape being clamped down) Once I press the column into the gearbox, I'll tear the box down as well as the column shaft and remove the gear and shaft as a single assembly. Then the gear and shaft will be welded on both sides of the gear opening. It won't be going anywhere! Anyhow here's some pics.
I've been watching yours and Soni's builds and am amazed at the ingenuity and fab skills both you guys have. I do have an issue/concern, this is also a concern I had when I drove HEMMT's in the Army. They had no mechanical linkage from the steering wheel to the steer axles, just hydraulics. Do you have any failsafe mechanism in case there is a shaft or joint failure? I remember years ago one of the commercial rigs I drove (no power steering) had a spring system that would keep the truck from pulling hard to the right or left if you had a blowout on the steering axle. Not criticizing, just wondering.
 
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