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preventable rear suspension failure

rattlecan6104

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So a couple weeks ago I was talking to a few coworkers about how the rear suspension worked on the deuce. as we were standing next to the truck I had noticed that my leaf springs were farther away from the frame than they should have been by about a couple inches. I removed the dust cover to find the two spindle nuts and lock washer were just sitting in the dust cover and the tapered bushing was riding on the trunnion threads. The lock washer had only one of the 6 tabs bent down, and it looked like it was done right. Prior to this I have never taken that dust cover off, never had a need to.

I got it to a nearby friends house and jacked up the truck to see how bad the damage was... I nearly had no threads left. I had to acquire a new trunnion, and jack up the truck by the frame, remove all 8 rear wheels, the leaf spring packs, the lower dog bones, and the spring perches, meanwhile supporting the axles all before I could remove the trunnion. In the process I cleaned up a few parts and gave them a quick coat of primer and paint to help protect them from corrosion.

When I acquired the replacement trunnion, I noticed it had tapered roller bearings in it they were manufactured by timken with part #392. Since two of them were essentially toast and my tapered bushings were still good, I just kept the bushings.

At this point I would like to say the method I used to support the frame worked... HOWEVER, I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS METHOD, we were very fortunate the ground was stable and the truck did not shift. In hindsight this could have really ended severely badly. I have heard there are jack stands tall enough to support the frame, if anyone has a source for them they could provide that would be great.

I urge you guys to take the five minutes to check your rear trunnions on your deuces to prevent yourself the hassle that happened to me.
 

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Taurus454

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Thank you for the write up. I liked the pictures of your jacks and brace. I was wondering if you could show more cleaarly in a pucture the gap you mentioned finding? Also, what should it look like without the gap.

Thank you for your time and consideration!

Tom
 

Floridianson

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Ouch would say nice find but good thing you are watching your machine.
This is why we get out there once and a while and crawl all over these or any machines looking for problems before they happen.

Good job and for those of you who don't know there is a grease fitting for the trunnion.
 

rattlecan6104

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Oak Harbor, WA
I unfortunately did not get a picture before I jacked it up and took it apart, but I just ran out to the truck and measured the distance between the spring pack and the frame and found they are about 1 3/4 to 2 inches apart. when the spindle nuts backed out the spring pack started to work its way outward and started to rotate or "lean" towards the outside of the truck as well. It looked about 4 inches between the frame and the top of the spring pack at that point.
 

kennys@wi.rr.com

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Waukesha, WI
Bearing 392 happens to be the same as the ouside rear axle bearing on a deuce. The only reason I know this is because I just had to repack one side on a deuce and I purposly looked for the number. Think I will have to pull the dust covers and look at mine this weekend.
 

treeguy

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Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
Its too bad that you had to have that happen, but it certainly makes one want to check theirs immediatly. The big question is how did this happen? Previous owners abuse? If you found the tab bent down then it makes me wonder how the nut backed off enough so that the bearing (I assume) was able to flatten out all the threads. Does that make sense? If the nut came off and the whole unit walked out then wouldn't it be the ID of the bearing riding alone on the threaded shaft? Or the bearing spread out and the bottom of the housing was riding on the threaded shaft, but it looks like the threads are equally worn/mashed all the way around. Scary stuff, add this one to the list.
 

John S-B

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Your wood cribbing would be okay, you just need to not have so much wood over hanging (Less likely to have something catch and make your cribbing unstable) and keep the jacks just inside of the outer edges. I keep any treated 4x4's 12"s or longer for blocking, and I try to have a dozen or so that are the same lenth to build box cribbing. between 18 and 24" are handy, and should support a duece with no problem. Just leave an inch or two overhang on the corners and that will allow a little "crush" in softer wood like pine that will actually help to lock the cribbing together.
Good post though, I'll add that check to my list of things to do before I put mine on the road.
 

Flyingvan911

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Kansas City, MO
When I got my truck I put a ton of grease in the trunions. They took great care of the truck over all but I guess they let that detail get away. Other than that, they are fine. Before the trip to OK this weekend I'm going to get out the grease gun.
 

tie6044

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Blaine, MN
I agree that you only need one tab bent down to hold the outer nut in place. I think what might have happened is the inner single tab on the washer that slides in the slot on the spindle may have been bent or broke. I have seen it before when going through axles, if that tab is broken the two nuts and the washer can spin off together.
 

gringeltaube

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............... I think what might have happened is the inner single tab on the washer that slides in the slot on the spindle may have been bent or broke....................
Look at his pics#3 and #4.... that tab seems to be there, intact...


As to what exactly caused it to come apart.... we already learned that this is one of the Deuces weak spots. Also, that when they upgraded installing solid bushings, the original pivot shaft most probably remained the same.
Who knows how bad the threaded portion already was the last time this one was serviced/ assembled. There is a reason one can find all kind of improvised solutions (or call it "field repairs"?) done like this: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...g-seat-shaft-repair-upgrade-2.html#post599793


G.
 
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