Red's deuce/camper project

[welldigger]

Agreed, new head gaskets and "ARP" head studs.

Not just a new head gasket. I was thinking custom copper with fire rings or an MLS gasket.

 

[red]

I've been finding posts of others cranking up the stock turbo to 15-19 without head lift issues, with stronger studs and a good gasket mid 20's shouldn't be an issue

 

[red]

Found a post from rustystud listing the ARP head stud info:

Got the part numbers from "ARP" . The studs are all 9/16" . The 6.160" long stud is # AQ6.120-1LB , price is $11.50 ea. . The 6.380" long stud is # AQ6.500-1LB , price is $12.34 ea. The 2.620" long stud does not have an exact match, but this is the closest and should work fine, #AQ3.475-1LB , price is $6.58 ea. The heavy duty washers are # 200-8515 , price is $0.96 ea. The nuts are a 12 point and are # 300-8305 , price is $8.44 ea. The grand total if you use their washers and the special 12 point nuts is $567.44 . If you only buy the studs and use your own nuts and washers the price is $304.24 . Of course shipping is extra.<br />
All the studs and nuts and washers are rated at 200,000 PSI tensile strength. This would be more then enough to hold our heads on !<br/>

 

[rustystud]

Found a post from rustystud listing the ARP head stud info:

Got the part numbers from "ARP" . The studs are all 9/16" . The 6.160" long stud is # AQ6.120-1LB , price is $11.50 ea. . The 6.380" long stud is # AQ6.500-1LB , price is $12.34 ea. The 2.620" long stud does not have an exact match, but this is the closest and should work fine, #AQ3.475-1LB , price is $6.58 ea. The heavy duty washers are # 200-8515 , price is $0.96 ea. The nuts are a 12 point and are # 300-8305 , price is $8.44 ea. The grand total if you use their washers and the special 12 point nuts is $567.44 . If you only buy the studs and use your own nuts and washers the price is $304.24 . Of course shipping is extra.<br />
All the studs and nuts and washers are rated at 200,000 PSI tensile strength. This would be more then enough to hold our heads on !<br/>

I'd pop for the 12 point nuts myself as they are 120,000psi rated. I had a good long talk with the "ARP" rep and told him exactly what we needed for our multifuel engine. He was the one who recommended we use the 12 point nuts, and their install lube.

 

[Hainebd]

You people know more about these Hyperfuel engines than I. My impression was the rods are a weak point on these engines. Those that have let loose have put a hole in the block.

 

[welldigger]

You people know more about these Hyperfuel engines than I. My impression was the rods are a weak point on these engines. Those that have let loose have put a hole in the block.

Eh...his goal is 200 hp. I'm not really concerned with the bottom end. I'm more worried about head flex/lift and egt's. These heads really aren't well designed for flow and heat dissipation.

That and many people have gone down the rabbit hole of chasing different turbos. Even the ones who succeeded admitted the gains were minimal at best. Fact of the matter is slapping on a bigger turbo doesn't always lead to better results. But if he's willing to experiment then I won't tell him not to.

 

[red]

Exactly, not a high power goal (very happy with just 180hp), the main goals are reliability and efficiency. I stay below 2300rpm, with a cruising preference of 2100.

The stock turbos were installed for emissions, not power or efficiency.

 

[Another Ahab]

I'd pop for the 12 point nuts myself as they are 120,000psi rated. I had a good long talk with the "ARP" rep and told him exactly what we needed for our multifuel engine. He was the one who recommended we use the 12 point nuts, and their install lube.

What's that you're referring to, rustystud:

- some proprietary anti-seize compound (applied to the threads)?

 

[Jeepsinker]

Yes, to insure that proper torque is applied by decreasing inter-thread friction.

 

[rustystud]

What's that you're referring to, rustystud:

- some proprietary anti-seize compound (applied to the threads)?

Yes, "ARP" sells a special assembly lube to do exactly what jeepsinker said.

 

[red]

Mounted up a waste oil/other fuels filter station on the front of the trailer. Need to finish the mounts and make a box for it to protect from the weather.

New hx35w arrived today as well.

 

[rustystud]

Mounted up a waste oil/other fuels filter station on the front of the trailer. Need to finish the mounts and make a box for it to protect from the weather.

New hx35w arrived today as well.


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I like the idea of having your own portable fuel filter station. That way you'll always have a fuel supply as long as you take your trailer along. My buddy who owns a service station in Seattle has to pay to have his old oil hauled away. He would love to see you come over and take a few hundreds gallons of oil away

 

[red]

Sounds good to me!

 

[Another Ahab]

I like the idea of having your own portable fuel filter station. That way you'll always have a fuel supply as long as you take your trailer along. My buddy who owns a service station in Seattle has to pay to have his old oil hauled away. He would love to see you come over and take a few hundreds gallons of oil away

Sounds good to me!

Fuel for the asking:

- And it's a win for both parties (Giver/ "Givee")

- Deal doesn't get better than THAT. Nice set-up!

 

[red]

I like the idea of having your own portable fuel filter station. That way you'll always have a fuel supply as long as you take your trailer along. My buddy who owns a service station in Seattle has to pay to have his old oil hauled away. He would love to see you come over and take a few hundreds gallons of oil away

Inform him I'll be happy to help! Like Ahrab said, its mutually beneficial haha.

 

[red]

New fuel lines are plumbed, secondary filter is upgraded to a spin on, FDC bypassed, and mostly done with removing the fuel supply for the flame heater. Need to get another 1/4" pipe plug to seal it off. Won't be by the truck this weekend so it will have to wait until Sunday night or Monday.

On a side note my new drill arrived today. I use a Rigid 18v impact with work a lot so decided to buy the 18v drill to go with it, replace the 8+ year old dewalt I had. **** good upgrade, big improvement with torque

 

[rustystud]

Fuel for the asking:

- And it's a win for both parties (Giver/ "Givee")

- Deal doesn't get better than THAT. Nice.

You might want to check out service stations in your area. The reason it cost so much to have your oil removed is that the remover must be "EPA" approved for proper disposal. No dumping it in the rivers or ocean or buried in the backyard kind of stuff. Since your "using" the oil there should be no problems. In fact my buddy installed a oil fired furnace to heat his shop to help get rid of some of the oil, but even with the furnace he still has to have a lot hauled away. I haven't started to use old oil yet, but in the future I plan to set up a filter station and start blending my own fuel.

 

[rustystud]

Mounted up a waste oil/other fuels filter station on the front of the trailer. Need to finish the mounts and make a box for it to protect from the weather.

New hx35w arrived today as well.


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Red, what is the pump your using to transfer the oil ? Where did you buy it and how much was it ? Thanks.

 

[welldigger]

Looks like a sureflo diaphragm pump.

 

[red]

Its a shurflow 2088, cost about $55 on Amazon. Doesn't flow fast (I don't want it to, better filtering).