Removing the FDC for adjustment

[markehle]

I am going to turn up the adjustment screw on the FDC on my duece and the heater makes it really hard to get to it. Would it make more sense to remove the FDC, adjust it, then bolt it back on?

Also, I have some questions about the adjusting. When you hold the outer nut and turn the inner one in, after you are done is there supposed to be space between the nuts, or does the outer one lock the inner one? Right now there is no space at all between the two, and it makes it look like the outer nut is just a lock nut.

Thanks!

Mark

 

[Westech]

I would search Turning up fuel" and go from there little grasshopper. You really need to read up on how to do it. There are many pictures posted on what and how to do it.

Search a little first.

 

[markehle]

Right - I have read as many as I can find. My questions still stand. If you know the answers, would you be so kind as to spare a few keystrokes for me?

 

[Westech]

Read them again dude.
Really its all there.
you need to look at the pictures and read the posts.

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

I have removed my heater box and brackets to gain access to all the fuel stuff eaasier. Plus there is no real chance of screwing anything up on the heater box.

 

[markehle]

Thanks for the reply! I thought of that, too. Looks like that might be my plan. However, does it hurt anything to remove the FDC? Mine's been bypassed, so it looks like four bolts, a light tap with a little rubber mallet, and it pops off. Can this hurt anything?

Now - I thought I read somewhere that there is a hex hole in the end of the shaft with the nuts. On mine there is none. So, I am guessing that I hold the outer nut (looks like it is staked onto the shaft) and turn the inner nut into the body and then I am done. The inner nut is flush against the body of the FDC, then there are threads between the two nuts, right? What locks the inner nut from moving?

sorry if this has been answered before, but if it has, I can't find it.

 

[Westech]

If you do not know how to turn up the fuel how do you think you will be able to remove the FDC and put it back on? its WAY WAY WAY WAY more then just 4 bolts and hit it with a hammer.

Read the TM's and other posts.

Case closed.

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

I have done a lot of work with IP's and not even I would remove one from a truck that is currently working, and I've done some stupid chit with these. Make sure the shaft doesn't move and you will be fine. Or take a road trip to SE WI and I will teach you how to do it and other things to the truck the right way.

 

[markehle]

If you do not know how to turn up the fuel how do you think you will be able to remove the FDC and put it back on? its WAY WAY WAY WAY more then just 4 bolts and hit it with a hammer.

Read the TM's and other posts.

Case closed.

Gee, thanks, Westech. Just so you know, I've been wrenching on motors (but not diesels) since I was in middle school. I just spent $5k on the truck and want to make sure I don't break anything.

I thought I asked some simple questions. If I offended you, just don't reply.

I have looked at TM 9-2910-226-34. On page 3-4 (page 50 of the PDF) It says,

"Disconnect tubing (B) from elbow. Remove and discard locking wire and seal (C). Remove four capscrews (D), lockwashers (E), tamper proof cover (F) and clip securing compensator to governor
housing. Tap fuel density compensator (G) with a soft hammer to break gasket seal and remove fuel density compensator assembly (G) and gasket (H) from governor housing."
​

Seems to me that adjusting the thing on the bench beats leaning over the fender and straining around the heater.

Please tell me why this won't work.

 

[drgreg]

I'd remove the heater, no springs and stuff to fly about.

 

[markehle]

I have done a lot of work with IP's and not even I would remove one from a truck that is currently working, and I've done some stupid chit with these. Make sure the shaft doesn't move and you will be fine. Or take a road trip to SE WI and I will teach you how to do it and other things to the truck the right way.

Thanks, Kenny! I appreciate the comments!

 

[kennys@wi.rr.com]

We all have to start somewhere, and nothing upsets me more than someone screwing up one of these trucks and then scrapping it. Hope I can be of some help.

 

[swampzr2]

Your a good man Charlie Brown!

We all have to start somewhere, and nothing upsets me more than someone screwing up one of these trucks and then scrapping it. Hope I can be of some help.

 

[drgreg]

And Westy has sand in his Vaseline.

 

[markehle]

I'd remove the heater, no springs and stuff to fly about.

Ah - see, now that's info I can use. If there are springs to lose, the FDC is staying on. Thanks!

 

[KsM715]

This is what Westy is getting at when he says read the posts again.......

Just a hint sense I consider my self the King of pumping up a deuce engine...... The adjuster rod faces the radiator and might be covered with a tin cover and 3 bolts with safety wire. ONLY brake the jam nut loose (a thin 1/2 in wrench will HELP!!) and turn the inner nut. DO NOT ROTATE THE SHAFT IN ANY WAY!! If yo do that you could drop the rod that is connected to that shaft and then you ****ED IN THE A. There should be a hex in the center of the shaft to place a star wrench or what have you so you can make sure the shaft does not rotate .

That quote was taken from this thread: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/53010-how-turn-up-fuel-pictures.html

Read that thread before you go messing with your FDC

 

[rlwm211]

I can change my fuel setting without removing anything. It takes about 5 minutes.

I sit on the fender legs over the front.

With a 3/8 rachet 7/16" socket and 18" of extensions, remove the two 1/4" bolts that hold the cover on and set them aside. This allows you to turn the rachet without any interference and this speeds up this part immensely. I always have a magnetic bowl handy to hold the parts.

You will need a 1/2" tappet wrench that is narrow enough to fit on the inner nut. Once you have the tappet wrench on the nut hold it still, and then using a 1/2" box end wrench, turn the outer nut to loosen and back it off enough that you can more easily work with the inner nut.

If you are increasing fuel rate, turn the inner nut on the threaded shaft in (Clockwise). COunt the flats to keep track of how far you have gone. A fulll turn will be quite a difference. To reduce the fuel delivery rate turn the nut counter clockwise to lower the rate.

Once you have made the change you want hold the inner nut with the tappet wrench and turn the outer nut in until it is locked against the inner.

Re-install the cover and you are done.

I use a tri-pod flashlight and set it against the fender focused on the adjuster, wth the flashlight far enough ahead to keep it out of the way.

If you do not have a pyrometer installed you can damage your engine if you add too much fuel. Keep that in mind.

I mentioned I sit on the fender and by doing so, I can use both hands easily when I do this. I just finished a study of the multifuel with two pyrometers one ahead of the turbo and one after to set the fuel rate in my LDS in my deuce. I adjusted the fuel 6 times over the test period.

We had done head gaskets because I blew one from over fueling.

Now, I am running it at a place where it has enough power and still gets good mileage with the load I carry all the time.

I hope this is helpful

RL

 

[73m819]

Have you LOOKED at the pics in the parts tm., have you READ the -20,-34. It might help to see what your getting into.

 

[rlwm211]

I would suggest removing the cover and then reviewing the TM for the deuce and also you can get the TM for the injector pump with the exploded drawings of the internals.

www.Jatonkam35s.com in the M35 Deuce TM section. The IP Manual is about 3/4 of the way down the page.

If you read, and review after looking at the part of the IP you need to deal with, it will be much easier.

RL

 

[markehle]

Thanks to all for the very helpful info!