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sheared/broken front lugs

HN6

HN6

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Well, I have had the deuce for little over a year now. Very enjoyable. One issue is that my front lugs and hub bolts keep coming loose. It has got to the point I check them with a tool ALMOST everytime I come out of the backcountry. I got the truck with one broken hub bolt. I took it on a short 2-3 mile ride while flushing differentials with diesel fuel. Something did not feel right at all so I drove last 1/2 mile home on shoulder at 20. Prior to heading out I already had one sheared off lug from what I thought was off-road collision on hub. Truck has been sitting since and I thought a little 3 mile roundtrip would be no problem... it barely was no problem. When I got home I had 2 more that has sheared off. I haver ordered 6 new LH and 6 new RH. The truck was worked hard before I bought it from the mine.

I fully serviced the truck when I bought it. Brakes, axles, the whole shebang....

Could overtorque lugs cause them to not tighten correctly? I have had zero issues with the rear.

aftermarket wheels, 395 tires, lockers in front axle/rear axles, hydraulic steering are the variables...

 

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HN6

HN6

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simp5782 said:
There is a vibration causing the studs to snap more than likely. That is a general way they snap.

The center welded in piece could be stronger metal than the studs or not centered as well.
Click to expand...
I built them and was wondering if an off centering would cause that. I have a small vibration at certain times while at hwy speed. Sometime really smooth, sometime a small bounce. 30psi .I have bought some 12r20's to put on stock wheels to see the difference. I was suspecting my wheel build as the culprit but my 65 yr old diesel mechanic friend didn't think it was. He is nicer to me than I am to myself.

I cut the centers out of stock deuce wheels. welded into new wheels.

Thanks for the advice.
 
simp5782

simp5782

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HN6 said:
I built them and was wondering if an off centering would cause that. I have a small vibration at certain times while at hwy speed. Sometime really smooth, sometime a small bounce. 30psi .I have bought some 12r20's to put on stock wheels to see the difference. I was suspecting my wheel build as the culprit but my 65 yr old diesel mechanic friend didn't think it was. He is nicer to me than I am to myself.

I cut the centers out of stock deuce wheels. welded into new wheels.

Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...
It doesn't take much of a vibration to Snap studs.


You may try using a dual wheel thimble on the inside then put the wheel on the use outer nut. This will make it stronger.

Is it only on the right side always?
 
HN6

HN6

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simp5782 said:
It doesn't take much of a vibration to Snap studs.


You may try using a dual wheel thimble on the inside then put the wheel on the use outer nut. This will make it stronger.

Is it only on the right side always?
Click to expand...
Driver side is the picture. both sides have come loose, but it does seem that one is more than the other. My drives are never more than 10 miles at hwy speed then 7 miles, low range 1,2 gear up a river. It is happening fairly short mileage.

I like the idea of thimble and outer nut for strength. I will surely do that as well.
 
frank8003

frank8003

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Wheel studs all on the truck probably are no where near the original specs being stretched and ruined.
You made no mention of torque you using. TM says just use 30W engine oil, small amount. Those wheels been
on and off many times using impacts on highest settings. They are hub centric wheels and centers should fit real good on the hub.
 
frank8003

frank8003

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Wheel questions

On the M35A2, the wheel bolt holes are chamfered. Are the wheels considered stud piloted or hub piloted wheels? I thought they were hub piloted, but in hub pilot systems, there is no chamfer on the bolt holes - at least on modern wheels.
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The thread (stud) for the wheels is precision stuff easily ruined by dirt and crap. They are to be clean and properly torqued on special stuff like wheels. Yours may have been forced together many times by high power air tools.

Also the hub centric wheels I found to be a "pretty good fit" whereas all the paint applied thru the years caused even to get the wheel off a PIA. I wire brushed it all to assure center. I can not find the dimensions of wheel and hub right now but re-centered wheels may be a contributing cause.
If the wheel is not centered, radial runout will occur. You may not sense that but the studs DO. The highest "out of round" stud vs hub stud will shear first, then the next, etc. The wheels stud holes are chamfered to assist in hub centering but can be overtorqued ON with enough force, even at 1/64" off (.015").
It will also place undo wear and load of the wheel bearings.
When You put new studs then put NEW nuts too as after all this time none of them are any good anymore.
The TM says to use new nuts everytime.
 

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HN6

HN6

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frank8003 said:
Wheel studs all on the truck probably are no where near the original specs being stretched and ruined.
You made no mention of torque you using. TM says just use 30W engine oil, small amount. Those wheels been
on and off many times using impacts on highest settings. They are hub centric wheels and centers should fit real good on the hub.
Click to expand...
Stretched and ruined. removing that variable. I ordered all new ones. for both sides.
 
frank8003

frank8003

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gringeltaube said:
Not so. Deuce wheels are stud piloted. Their center hole diameter is 6.457", vs the hub at 6.362". That's a very loose "fit", at best.
Click to expand...
Thank You again to gringeltaube!
Stud piloted! Wheel holes chamfered. Hub center hole is 3.228" from edge.
What is the bolt circle diameter?

Heck, a 600 psi impact wrench will take care of that.
With NEW studs and NEW nuts and 30W oil is not the torque specification 450 foot pounds?
 
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HN6

HN6

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frank8003 said:
Thank You again to gringeltaube!
Stud piloted! Wheel holes chamfered.
OK that .0475" inches center of hub to center of stud means a lot.
AS in like 1.2mm Center to center centerline of hub to centerline of stud.
Heck, a 600 psi impact wrench will take care of that.
With NEW studs and NEW nuts and 30W oil is not the torque specification 450 foot pounds?
Click to expand...
I will admit to not using a torque wrench. I will borrow one that goes that high when i install the new studs/nuts. Maybe i will buy one since I have a real reason now.
 
HN6

HN6

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New studs/nuts installed. I am mounting some 12r20 on factory wheels to see if possibly my wheels are causing the issue.
 

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HN6

HN6

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frank8003 said:
Did all that work and parts fix the problem?
Click to expand...
Well, first off after further inspection I did have "R" on the front left and "L" in the front right. I must have messed that up when I serviced everything last year. A friend of mine who is a mechanic stopped in to take a peak and says the studs had been stretched and broke instead of sheared. It made sense from looking at the lines in the metal. It look exactly like a weld coupon that gets ripped in half for test purposes.

I put factory wheels and 12r20's on the truck after replacing all the studs. Definitely a smoother ride.

Problem appears to be fixed. Roads to icy, slick to get out and drive in comfort. I did take it for a 10 mile drive and was very pleased.

I also ordered that torque wrench. I torqued to 450ft/lb
 
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