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should i buy a 2.5 or 5 ton truck?

59apache

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LIVING at 40 below in a camper sounds "sporting" and not doable to me. Heating isn't the problem, with a wood stove you can heat a shelter easily. The problems are water, waste water, washing clothes, to dry!! clothes aso.
I mean far away from everything, not an campground or trailer park.

Running a diesel truck in cold climate is an other problem. Without power connection is a block and battery heater not doable.
My tractor wouldn't start without it at 4° below.....

But there are other, more experienced people here.
 
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Mike929

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Sounds like the question you need to ask is more about running a truck in Alaska at those temperatures. Being from Texas, my view point on these trucks is a bit moot, but I am sure there are members in colder climates that can provide more relevant info on Arctic cold weather running.
 

swbradley1

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Actually keeping quiet and reading the original post I have determined that your best course of action is to take a little time and learn to use the search tool on the site. There are camper build threads, shelter threads, re-power threads, truck difference threads (2.5/5-ton or M44/M809/M939 or LDT/LDS or NHC/CTA engines), camping trailer threads, living off the grid threads and a plethora of other threads ad nauseum.....

Don't like the SS search? Use google.com and the site: SEARCH_TERM_HERE feature.
 

justin22885

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so.. would a 20 foot container fit on an M35 frame if say the box was removed, and the 20' container was bolted to the frame?.. and if the 2.5 ton is better offroad which is the impression i got from the lighter weight, also meaning the winch could pull it out a lot easier too, then thats probably the best route if i could fit such a container on top of it.. it seems like it would be the better multi purpose option as opposed to the 5-ton which offers more brute force when it comes to hauling and towing which admittedly i wont be doing all that much.. at least nothing i dont think a 2.5 ton could handle?
 

quickfarms

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Orange Junction, CA
In order to fit a 20 foot container on a M35 you would need a long wheel base truck. The added length of the truck greatly decreases it off-road capability. The second issue is weight capacity, an empty container is at or near the off-road capacity of the vehicle.

An S-280 shelter is a better fit for the M35. It is 12 feet long, insulated and weighs less than 2000 lbs empty.
 

justin22885

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In order to fit a 20 foot container on a M35 you would need a long wheel base truck. The added length of the truck greatly decreases it off-road capability. The second issue is weight capacity, an empty container is at or near the off-road capacity of the vehicle.

An S-280 shelter is a better fit for the M35. It is 12 feet long, insulated and weighs less than 2000 lbs empty.
youre right, i didnt realize how heavy those containers are.. over 4,000lbs empty.. after adding insulation, a bed, compact toilet/shower id likely be overweight for offroad.. it would be just fine if i didnt need to go offroad.. so im just going to design and build a camper shell to suit my needs.. whats the maximum exterior dimensions? i could make it much lighter than a shipping container and the M35 should be able to haul that just fine because right now im leaning mostly to the standard wheelbase m35
 

justin22885

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So you are opposed to the S280 shelter as a starting point for the camper then?
not at all, looking at some photos of some that people have converted and they look quite useful if i could find one id probably go that route.. and they dont weigh much either.. and if im not mistaken theyre also already insulated
 

justin22885

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doing more thinking, it seems to me that better offroad will be better for me than more carrying capacity that i likely wont need and i think i could comfortably and easily work within the limitations of the M35.. also, that few mpg more may not seem much, but when these things guzzle gas like they do, every bit helps.. and there also seems to be a fair bit more customization for these trucks too that i can use for inspiration.. so im going to go with the M35.. if i feel i NEED power steering i can add it later.. if i feel i need better breaks, i can upgrade.. so it seems to me the M35 would be a better all-around starting point that i can improve upon and tailor to my needs.. so im going to go with that

im also not going to worry about staying in such a camper long-term.. ill either pre-fab a structure that could be built easily, or i realistically only need to get exterior walls and some insulation up before i can live inside and finish the house (more like a cottage) from the interior.. so, i could do all that before it got really cold, so yeah, M35 will do fine
 
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61sleepercab

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Get you a ride/test drive with a M35 and see if it fits your needs. A store bought power steering kit will set you back about 1/2 to full price of a M35. I would exercise biceps and get used to armstrong steering which is not bad if moving. ------ As to SPEED ===REMEMBER THE HOT ROD SPEED SHOP SAYING ==== SPEED COSTS MONEY HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO? The problem is that anything you do is a minus on truck or wallet===BIGGER TALLER TIRES SAPS PULLING POWER==== CHANGING GEAR RATIO IN THREE PUNKINS WILL SET YOU BACK MORE THAN THE TRUCK COSTS==== ADDING A BROWNIE TRANSMISSION FOR OVER AND UNDER DRIVE YOU WILL BE BUILDING DRIVE SHAFTS AND MOVING THE TRANSFER CASE=== IF YOU ARE GEARED FOR EIGHTY MPH HOW DO YOU LIKE KEEPING THE TRUCK IN THE ROAD AND HOW ARE GOING TO STOP?????? I do not want to rain on the speed parade but it does not make sense. You need to leave earlier and like a good RV driver pull over safely and let stacked traffic pass you on by. Also the older truckers/ heavy mechanics will tell you winding up tight a diesel will shorten life, remember you are dealing with 30-40 year old steel and technology . ===== Like the warning tag on GM 4x4s you are dealing with a heavy duty slow 6x6 that will serve you well with service that it was built for hauling 5000 pounds on bad roads and if given enough time will get there in one piece. Mark
 

frank8003

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Fuel
Do you want to buy fuel or not
How about when you can't get any fuel?


Buy/drive a Deuce
If unhappy then buy the 5 ton and sell the Deuce
I bet you don't.
 
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Sephirothq

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Trevorton / PA
How about an M109a3 if you are wanted a duece then. The shop truck is a pretty good start or at least that is what alot of people have done. I still think an M820 is a great idea for a camper. the 5 ton gives you more power and power steering. It also has 10 lug wheels so super singles are an easy and cheaper swap then the duece is with 6 lug.
 

justin22885

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Wisconsin
Well, I have made my decision. In doing a little more research and looking at some different things people have done to theirs, I have decided to go with the 2.5 ton truck and either work within its limitations, or improve upon those limitations.

Now, the 2.5 ton I get will probably not remain stock. I've been looking at some of those limitations and from what i could gather the brake system is an old single-circuit drum system. This does not strike me as the safest system so before I think about doing anything to add more power or more speed I must first be able to stop the vehicle so will probably do a brake upgrade.

That said I still havent figured out how useful or how needed the multifuel engine is and from what i could gather is a bit underpowered. Also, it seems just about any diesel could run on WVO, WMO, and WATF which is what I'd be far more interested in than the possibility of running gasoline. So I'm not sure if i would keep the multifuel engine and add more power through modifications (like a bigger turbo,) or if I would do a powertrain swap for a 5.9L or 6.7L cummins or possibly a DT466 which would make it easier to find parts for and has a larger aftermarket. Which would be better for a lot of driving at max cruising speeds? I heard the stock engine wasnt really cut out for that level of extended high RPMs? I could certainly be wrong though.

Now, as for the camper idea, I believe I have found a solution for this in browsing M35 photos online. Below is a photo I have found that perfectly represents the idea I had for an M35. I would also go a step further and probably remove the rear section of the cab so one could easily park and climb in the back without having to get out into what could be some pretty harsh weather (this winter reached -60, with extended periods below -40 and rarely got above -20.)

This photo is too large to attach, so I will just link it.

http://m35a2parts.com/images/Customers/A3conv6.jpg
 

swbradley1

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The multi-fuel is a pretty good engine for what it was designed for and if you take care of it there is a very good chance it will be very reliable and easily maintained. (Easy being relative.)

Running on what you find (within reason) is a good thing. I have never run anything but clean new diesel in all of my trucks but it's nice to have the option.

You could fab up an aluminium frame and cover it with a skin to keep the wight down but that A3 just feels too heavy in the picture.


I myself want to put my S280 up in the back of my M813 and start from there.
 

59apache

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ok, you're talking about transport material, offroad capabilities aso and that is your solution??

with the normal! frame flex you will break this thing apart. Only if you have a very well engineered subframe that keeps the flex away from the body it is possible.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZIvg4iCaj0

look my buddies M109...can you see the flex between cab and box??
 

ke5eua

Well-known member
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Location
Baton Rouge (Central), LA
Get you a ride/test drive with a M35 and see if it fits your needs. A store bought power steering kit will set you back about 1/2 to full price of a M35. I would exercise biceps and get used to armstrong steering which is not bad if moving. ------ As to SPEED ===REMEMBER THE HOT ROD SPEED SHOP SAYING ==== SPEED COSTS MONEY HOW FAST DO YOU WANT TO GO? The problem is that anything you do is a minus on truck or wallet===BIGGER TALLER TIRES SAPS PULLING POWER==== CHANGING GEAR RATIO IN THREE PUNKINS WILL SET YOU BACK MORE THAN THE TRUCK COSTS==== ADDING A BROWNIE TRANSMISSION FOR OVER AND UNDER DRIVE YOU WILL BE BUILDING DRIVE SHAFTS AND MOVING THE TRANSFER CASE=== IF YOU ARE GEARED FOR EIGHTY MPH HOW DO YOU LIKE KEEPING THE TRUCK IN THE ROAD AND HOW ARE GOING TO STOP?????? I do not want to rain on the speed parade but it does not make sense. You need to leave earlier and like a good RV driver pull over safely and let stacked traffic pass you on by. Also the older truckers/ heavy mechanics will tell you winding up tight a diesel will shorten life, remember you are dealing with 30-40 year old steel and technology . ===== Like the warning tag on GM 4x4s you are dealing with a heavy duty slow 6x6 that will serve you well with service that it was built for hauling 5000 pounds on bad roads and if given enough time will get there in one piece. Mark
Good advice, I've been driving 45 in this 1070 on I-10 from El Paso to Florida. I don't pull over for anybody to pass, occasionally for a semi but not for a car, they can pass on there own.

Pulling off on the shoulder in a big truck can turn south quick.
 

justin22885

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Wisconsin
59apache, I have though about that as well. I have watched a few videos of these trucks and noticed a lot of flex as you've pointed out. So what is the solution?

Also, it would seem that given the cost of fuel, tires, the tools required to work on something larger, that the total cost for keeping and maintaining the 5-ton vs the 2.5-ton goes up exponentially. I would like something that was easier to work on with simpler tools

So let me throw out a scenario. Let's just say I get the truck and I have the camper part of it set up the way I want. Then I decide i want to live out of it while doing some traveling around the country, on the road. This would require very long periods of steady cruising speeds, higher RPMs. After I have upgraded brakes I think it would suit me better to add more power and quite possibly add another gear to the tranny (I have already read threads where people do this for added speed).. So my question is this, would it be better to add more power to the multifuel engine, say bigger turbo charger among other modifications, or buy a detroit or cummins diesel engine/tranny for it?.. Also take into consideration that I am very interested in the ability to run on WVO, WMO, and WATF as well as regular diesel.
 
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