Smoke on start up (not glow plugs)

[thompsoncustom]

Check and make sure your heater blower works, it is on the same relay that excites the alternator, I would suspect you are not getting 24V to the IGN terminl on the regulator since rebuilding the PCB box.

thanks I'll start it and check. only thing changed inside the box was the original trigger wire was cut off and capped/tied up and I added a new wire from the battery side of the solenoid to a switch and back to the trigger on the solenoid. should I have left the original wire took the the trigger of the solenoid also? didn't know if back feeding would be a problem. and I can't see how this would change anything.

 

[thompsoncustom]

Get a camoteksystens.com box and be done with problems... and put new glow plugs, or at least good ones.

if I can't get it figured out myself ill buy an aftermarket one.

Check and make sure your heater blower works, it is on the same relay that excites the alternator, I would suspect you are not getting 24V to the IGN terminl on the regulator since rebuilding the PCB box.

tested the manual glow plug controller with the 6 good plugs and the 2 bad this morning on a cold engine. pushed the glow button for 3 seconds and it fired right up and smoked less than it has in months.

with the truck running the heater fan does not work so I think your right. is this relay the one located inside the box on the board? or somewhere else on the truck?

 

[Mogman]

The large solenoid in the box controls the blower and the alt NOT the glow plugs, the glow plugs are powered by the CMOS devices on the board, so you are not controlling the glow plugs, All you have done is effectively disabled the heater blower and the alt.

 

[TOBASH]

Talk or PM Eric Hummer H1. He frequently uses my schematics to bypass box and directly activate glow-plugs.

Unlikely you need to purchase a new box.

 

[Mogman]

To rebuild the box to be manual you must strip the circuit board completely out and add another solenoid

 

[thompsoncustom]

The large solenoid in the box controls the blower and the alt NOT the glow plugs, the glow plugs are powered by the CMOS devices on the board, so you are not controlling the glow plugs, All you have done is effectively disabled the heater blower and the alt.

but it does control the glow plugs(even if it shouldnt) as this morning when I tested it with a volt meter if I push the manual momentary switch I have power to the glow plugs and all that does is trigger the solenoid.

does that explain what failed than maybe? if that solenoid controls the alt and is always on than the glow plugs would have always been on also as it seems to control them as well.

 

[thompsoncustom]

Talk or PM Eric Hummer H1. He frequently uses my schematics to bypass box and directly activate glow-plugs.

Unlikely you need to purchase a new box.

your schematic is very helpful and it's what I will be using to rebuild this thing.

To rebuild the box to be manual you must strip the circuit board completely out and add another solenoid

would it be easier to just add another solenoid without removing the board if there's enough room? Could just pull power from the battery side of the first solenoid and have the output of that new solenoid be the only thing going to the glow plug harness so there's no worries of it being locked on like it was.

When I get back inside the box I'll hook the original trigger wire back up so that the alt/heater solenoid operates like normal.

 

[Mogman]

but it does control the glow plugs(even if it shouldnt) as this morning when I tested it with a volt meter if I push the manual momentary switch I have power to the glow plugs and all that does is trigger the solenoid.

does that explain what failed than maybe? if that solenoid controls the alt and is always on than the glow plugs would have always been on also as it seems to control them as well.

That solenoid has nothing to do with the glow plugs, the fact that the glow plugs seemed to work is only a coincidence.
No I would not leave the circuit board, why would you want to?

 

[TOBASH]

STRIP THE BOARD!!!

As someone who has performed uncounted number of rebuilds for personal use and sale, that board needs to go to make room for the second solenoid.

That circuit board is about as useful as tits on a fish.

 

[thompsoncustom]

That solenoid has nothing to do with the glow plugs, the fact that the glow plugs seemed to work is only a coincidence.
No I would not leave the circuit board, why would you want to?

that I don't know, I'm unsure of what the board controls didn't want to just pull it out and yes the fact that the solenoid was putting full time power to the glow plugs is why they burned up.

STRIP THE BOARD!!!

As someone who has performed uncounted number of rebuilds for personal use and sale, that board needs to go to make room for the second solenoid.

That circuit board is about as useful as tits on a fish.

what size relay do u recommend for the glow plugs?

 

[TOBASH]

that I don't know, I'm unsure of what the board controls didn't want to just pull it out and yes the fact that the solenoid is putting full time power to the glow plugs is why they burned up.

what size relay do u recommend for the glow plugs?

Relay for glow plugs needs to be bulletproof. If it gets stuck open you are farked. That means the relay should be 24v, with 200 amp or more.

Relay should be “continuous duty”.

 

[thompsoncustom]

Relay for glow plugs needs to be bulletproof. If it gets stuck open you are farked. That means the relay should be 24v, with 200 amp or more.

Relay should be “continuous duty”.

perfect thanks.

 

[TOBASH]

Super happy you have used my schematics AND super happy you are doing this DIY. That is what that thread was intended for.

Thanks for joining the growing number of DIY box makers!!! Better than spending buku bucks!!!

I always prefer when people DIY instead of ask me how to purchase.

 

[Mogman]

that I don't know, I'm unsure of what the board controls didn't want to just pull it out and yes the fact that the solenoid was putting full time power to the glow plugs is why they burned up.

what size relay do u recommend for the glow plugs?

You need to check the schematics again, that solenoid does not power the glow plugs it is intended to be closed all the time when the run switch is in the run position so supplying an output all the time would be normal, in fact the blower and alt will/would not work otherwise.

 

[Mogman]

In fact it is easy to see even without a schematic that the glow plug power goes in and out of the circuit board using the green and white wires secured to the circuit board with studs as pointed out by the arrows.
They evidently needed some amount of voltage drop in that circuit, that is why the extra long green wire is bundled up.

 

[thompsoncustom]

In fact it is easy to see even without a schematic that the glow plug power goes in and out of the circuit board using the green and white wires secured to the circuit board with studs as pointed out by the arrows.
They evidently needed some amount of voltage drop in that circuit, that is why the extra long green wire is bundled up.
View attachment 931469

I'm not disagreeing with you or the schematic but I was getting power to the glow plugs just from turning the solenoid on so what failed in the board to apply power to the glow plugs when the solenoid is active idk that's all I was saying and sense it's closed all the time it fried the glow plugs. All I did was add a wiring from the battery side of the solenoid to a switch and back to the trigger post on top which then made the glow plugs work when I pushed the button but since it's not closed all the time as you pointed out my alt and heater don't get power.

I got a 24v 200amp solenoid ordered so I'll have to wait till that gets here to go any further with the rebuild I did take it back out of the humvee and remove my switch and wire as that was the wrong way to do it and shouldn't have worked for the glow plugs anyways, still need to order a glow plug puller for the 2 i couldn't get out.

 

[TOBASH]

The function of the added second solenoid is to close when you press a button in order to power the glow plugs.

If you are currently powering the glow plugs at all times when your vehicle is on, that is why they burnt out.

 

[TOBASH]

I am getting confused by the terminology that you are using. With a standard EESS/PCB, when you turn on your vehicle and there is automatically power to the glow plugs, that is normal. If it never turns off that power, that is abnormal.

 

[TOBASH]

When you turn on your vehicle, if the glow plug wait light comes on but never goes off, that is abnormal

 

[thompsoncustom]

I am getting confused by the terminology that you are using. With a standard EESS/PCB, when you turn on your vehicle and there is automatically power to the glow plugs, that is normal. If it never turns off that power, that is abnormal.

so what seemed to happen when it failed is it was always getting power from the solenoid that is currently in there for the alt/heater and since that has power at all time in the run position that's what killed them. (abnormal)

ya that's the plan the glow plugs are going on there own solenoid and not the board.