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So who has bumped the power on a 6CTA cummins

Jeepsinker

Jeepsinker

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WM, I'm telling you man, I have over thirty of these trucks in my field right now that I keep running and I go through this daily. Only way to get it done is to push fuel from the tanks up.
 
74M35A2

74M35A2

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Wrong thread, and wrong category. Request to move, and not interested in male orifices.

As others said, shoot some ether down the intake and crank it. If the engine fires, this at least tells you mechanically it is fine. Your fuel may be water (within). When mixed, it is hard to tell (see/feel/smell) the difference until it is seen against fresh diesel as comparison. Make sure you understand the direction the fuel shut off lever is supposed to go. On the 8.3L, the solenoid plunger pulls into itself for run position. Many times you have to open a line/bleed/filter after the priming pump in order to prime correctly. The pump just can't compress enough air to surge past the overflow valve in the injection pump. Loosen your spin on filter, and pump the plunger until you hear/see/feel the squish-squish.

i think you have the fuel **** off lever in the opposite position by how you described it. You said you removed the solenoid the move the lever to the stop position, and on the 8.3, you would remove the solenoid (or depress the plunger) to move the lever to the run position.
 
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wreckerman893

wreckerman893

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Jeepsinker. As I stated I've roped this goat before and always managed to get it started. If you could send me a pic tomorrow of the bleeder screw I'd greatly appreciate it. I think I know which one your talking about but a pic would confirm it.

74.....I drove these trucks in the Army and know about the fuel solenoid. We had a motor pool full of them and that solenoid was designed by an idiot and built by a moron. They constantly de-energize and keep the truck from starting. That's why I removed the one off this truck, it was FUBAR. What I can't figure out is why it will start fine several times in a row and then lose prime. Since I have three trucks in the yard with the same engine I know which position the lever should be in. The fuel in the tank is fresh and when I brought the truck home I drained both tanks and let them air dry out to make sure all the water was out.

I'm not a mechanic but I do know how to trouble shoot and do basic maintenance.

Thank you both for the assistance and tomorrow I'll hit it again and see if I missed something.
 
panzerwillie

panzerwillie

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This may help WM, when i work on a diesel shop we use to trouble shoot trucks that would run poor or where having starting problems of course they where 5.9 cummins so we had a fitting that connected to the PT pump set up in to a fuel can, we use to set it on top of engine and it would gravity feed the IP, so it would eliminated the injection pump back if it starts and stays running after the air is out the system , then you know your problem from there back. if not, maybe the IP pump, now putting a pressure in the tank will show any problem forward of the tank good idea if you can rig it up, all it takes is a little air in the system and it will not run, looking to get it to one of this 900 family soon , so will learn more, good luck with it ..
willie
 
Suprman

Suprman

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There is a 10mm bleeder on the backside front top of the pump. You are probably air bound. Open that 2 turns and prime away with the hand pump till fuel comes out then try to start.
 
MO MV man

MO MV man

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That is THE most horrific memory of my truck's maintenance.....when I changed the fuel filters, it wouldn't start, lost prime.

After wrestling with it for about 6 hours, trying every trick under the book, I put my tools down (before I threw each and every one of them.....) and walked away.
I returned the next morning, bright and early, cracked all the injector fittings, had my brother assist and VOILA! FUEL!
It started chugging to life immediately, cylinder by cylinder!
Fuel would ooze from the injector fitting, rear to front, one at a time.

Answer me this.....letting it sit overnight burped the remaining air from the system?
I was dumbfounded and tickled senseless to say the least.

Sure makes me gunshy about ever changing the fuel filters again!
 
74M35A2

74M35A2

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I am also looking for sources of 8.3 performance parts. Haisley machine seems to have the best rated GSK's for 5.9's, but if the Pac's have proven like just did, then I may go with them. I'm also looking for stiffer valve springs, head stud kit, bigger injectors, HX50 turbo, remove the after cooler, install an intercooler, and then use a P7100 pump with 12mm or 13mm plungers.
 
nevrenufhp

nevrenufhp

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Back a few years ago(when a 12 valve with 370s was cool), I did lots of reading on people's driving experiences with different brands of GSK. Most favored the set from Piers, but the best manners are from the Pac Brake kit. That, and KT has them for the best price. I have been thinking of putting together a package like 74M35A2 was talking about. I was leaning towards marine injectors, GSK, HX50, and the special tool to adjust the fuel. Sticking with the MW-pump of course. I found some 400hp marine injectors, just need to run the specs to make sure they are compatible with the MW.
 
panzerwillie

panzerwillie

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Got my GSK kit today , if i recall you keep the outer spring and seat which i think is the idle spring, you will replace the inner cup with the 2 new inner springs for 2800 RPM and if you want to bring it up to 4k you put the small spring supply {which i am not doing}, is this correct is what i seen to understand after reading the instructions, is being over 15 years since i last did a 12 valve..
thank you...
 
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