Starter Clicks But Does Not Start

[WhoMe08721]

Hey Guys,

Last year I burn out my starter by cranking the engine to long in the winter month, cause the glow plug where burn out. But this past spring I tested and replaced all the glow plugs and starter. But some times (but not always) when I go to start the engine it will only click like the starter is stuck. When I installed the new started I reinstalled the starter shim and last week I check that the started has a good ground and even used a jumping cable from the battery right to the starter. But still have the clicking so time. Did I buy a bad starter off ebay or do you guys have any other ideas. Also if I have to buy a new starter again any suggestion where to buy a new starter from.

(Video of problem)

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[papakb]

Clicking starters can be due to several reasons. First you want to make sure both batteries are fully charged. Second, get rid of your Chinese starter switch if you have one installed and install a US made one. Third, make sure that when you turn the switch to RUN that you're getting 24v on the solenoid terminal. If you recently replaced the starter the problem may be in the solenoid rather than the starter but they can appear to be the same. I believe that Walker Truck Parts sells a solenoid rebuild kit and that'll save you a couple hundred dollars if that's all oit is.

And make sure you enlist some help removing and refitting that overweight monster!

 

[WhoMe08721]

The M998 batteries are fully charged and brand new (odyssey 6t batteries). Replaced them in August this year. The starter switch is the stock switch, I think. Never replaced it and I am the first owner of this m998. Bought it right off the base back in the day. There is 24v at the solenoid terminal. Also I have replaced the solenoid. When the starter arrive from ebay. The post office cracked the back plate on the solenoid. So I decided to replace it before installing the starter.

 

[Mogman]

Try tapping the starter towards the back with a hammer, if it then starts the brushes are worn/stuck.
You say every now and then, when it happens what gets you going?

 

[Milcommoguy]

The M998 batteries are fully charged and brand new (odyssey 6t batteries). Replaced them in August this year. The starter switch is the stock switch, I think. Never replaced it and I am the first owner of this m998. Bought it right off the base back in the day. There is 24v at the solenoid terminal. Also I have replaced the solenoid. When the starter arrive from ebay. The post office cracked the back plate on the solenoid. So I decided to replace it before installing the starter.

Just a guess... and a FREE IMO... so proceed at one own experience level.

Sounds like the solenoid HIGH current motor run contacts are not making up. That's the two BIG copper bolt connections.

One quickie test would to to short across the two with a junk screw driver. Get ready for a good spark. If motor spins up... time to look at the goings on in there. Clue here is it was worked on. (Not saying or pointing fingers) No need to place the truck in the RUN position.

A more routine test would be to have a remote starter button set-up connected to the battery 24 Volts and the solenoid control terminal located on the fiber glass insulator lead. This would BY PASS all the ignition switch and control box action. These test should get you in going in the right direction.

And there's always the multi-meter or simple test light. Checking for a contact closure at the contacts above or voltage when energized.

All are easy to do. Might need a helper to throw the switch.

Intermittent operations are always fun. Dig in and report back. Good luck.

, CAMO

 

[osteo16]

Ground ?

 

[papakb]

A more routine test would be to have a remote starter button set-up connected to the battery 24 Volts and the solenoid control terminal located on the fiber glass insulator lead. This would BY PASS all the ignition switch and control box action. These test should get you in going in the right direction.


Kinda like shorting pins S & T on the STE-ICE connector?

 

[Milcommoguy]

A more routine test would be to have a remote starter button set-up connected to the battery 24 Volts and the solenoid control terminal located on the fiber glass insulator lead. This would BY PASS all the ignition switch and control box action. These test should get you in going in the right direction.


Kinda like shorting pins S & T on the STE-ICE connector?

A more routine test would be to have a remote starter button set-up connected to the battery 24 Volts and the solenoid control terminal located on the fiber glass insulator lead. This would BY PASS all the ignition switch and control box action. These test should get you in going in the right direction.


Kinda like shorting pins S & T on the STE-ICE connector?

Really... Tell the truth here... papakb. Can one even see the letters on that connectors? Fifty ... that's 50 +/- close spaced pins on a 2 1/4 inch connector, in a spot that getting one's nose, flashlight and eyes up in there to even peek or trying to poke around looking for letters S and a T... smaller than > this. <

My easy way... On by back, cushie-creeper, button in hand, wires clipped in, eyes and ears at the ready... and test.
You must have some damm good bifocals, CAMO

 

[WhoMe08721]

Finally got time yesterday to drop the starter. Found the problem was the starter solenoid plates were burnt. Replaced the plate and now it works great.