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Starting CCKW Rebuild......Finally

saddamsnightmare

Well-known member
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Abilene, Texas
February 13th, 2016.


I wonder why the Army did not consider carrying the shut off valve forward on the G742 and 744 series trucks? Seems like a fairly good way to handle small battle damage to your brake systems.:confused:
 

D6c

Member
125
14
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Location
IA
Very nice truck! But... I have to say... FANTASTIC looking shop! [thumbzup]

That's an awesome place to be able to work on any project!!
Thanks AZK9,
The shop was a long time coming...finally finished it up about a year ago. It's 40 x 56 x 16' with 14 x 14 door. Insulated the heck out of it so I can afford to keep it heated. Put in radiant heat in the floor heated with an electric micro boiler. So far it's been very economical.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
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Location
Alexandria, VA
Thanks AZK9,
The shop was a long time coming...finally finished it up about a year ago. It's 40 x 56 x 16' with 14 x 14 door. Insulated the heck out of it so I can afford to keep it heated. Put in radiant heat in the floor heated with an electric micro boiler. So far it's been very economical.
Any specs on that, or a photo of the unit?
 

D6c

Member
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Location
IA
Bought it from HydroSmart. The boiler is like this http://www.hydro-smartwholesale.com/sh-3.html

The system came fully assembled on a panel...boiler, pumps, piping etc. Similar to this, but with the boiler unit also on the panel. http://www.hydro-smartwholesale.com/master-panel.html You just screw the panel to the wall as one piece.

Pex tubing is cast into the concrete floor in 10 equal length circuits and hooked to a manifold. The heat panel is hooked up to the manifold and wired into a breaker panel.

The heating unit is metered separately from the rest of the shop & house and I get a "heat rate" on that meter that's about 1/2 the cost per kwh.

So far I'm very happy with the unit and it keeps the shop very evenly heated.
 

D6c

Member
125
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Location
IA
Had a little time to work on the 270 engine block. I had previously sleeved one cylinder because it was badly pitted and since it was already bored to .060 oversize that was about my only choice. The deck was a little rough and the sleeve need to be cut flush, and since the local machine shop wanted $150 to face it, I decided to do it myself.

I set the block up on my mill and shimmed it as close to flat as I could. Using a boring head and a long boring bar I was able to clean it up. Took about .010 to clean up pretty well. The small mill won't cut that big of a surface perfectly flat but it's much closer than it was. I still have to finish bore and hone the sleeve.

Not sure if I'll need to do the head too. It's not bad for flatness

Top Block.jpg

Cylinder Sleeve.jpg

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CwJI-KKHI1w
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,999
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113
Location
Alexandria, VA
The deck was a little rough and the sleeve need to be cut flush, and since the local machine shop wanted $150 to face it, I decided to do it myself.
It sounds like you got a nice little shop there at your place.

Have you had your machine tools a long time; and do you do a lot of machining?
 

Capt Pat

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Sandusky, Ohio
DSCF1606.jpgClinto; I've got an original GMC CCW 6x4 closed cab (with an original GMC all steel bed) that I might be interested in parting with. Like him, mine's been waiting a long time for restoration, and there are a bunch of pieces and parts that would go with it. My medical situation says I'll never get it restored, so I probably should sell it to somebody who wants one
 
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Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,999
4,556
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Clinto; I've got an original GMC CCW 6x4 closed cab (with an original GMC all steel bed) that I might be interested in parting with. Like him, mine's been waiting a long time for restoration, and there are a bunch of pieces and parts that would go with it. My medical situation says I'll never get it restored, so I probably should sell it to somebody who wants one
That rig is a beauty; very sweet.

I'm sorry to hear about the medical set-back, and I sure hope you work through it all OK. What are you being told?
 
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D6c

Member
125
14
18
Location
IA
It sounds like you got a nice little shop there at your place.

Have you had your machine tools a long time; and do you do a lot of machining?
Have had the machines 4-5 years but didn't have a place to put them until a little over a year ago. I use them mostly for my own repair work. Spent many years working in the mold/die industry but have been away from it for about 15 years.
 

D6c

Member
125
14
18
Location
IA
Finally got a little work started on the CCKW. Hauled the rolling frame over to the sandblaster last week and got it stripped.

There's a little grinder work to clean up where things have been welded to the frame, but not too many. I'll have to pull the front bumper off and do some straightening on it where someone wrapped a chain around the middle and bent the top and bottom flanges in some.

I pulled the differential out of the front tandem to check it out. The pinon seal had been leaking, and I didn't notice until it came back from the sandblaster that the axel housing vent was missing so it likely got sand and dirt into the housing. Differential looks good and seems to still have good preload on the carrier bearings. The axel splines show almost no wear so that's a good sign. I'll probably end up pulling all the axels down to replace seals and inspect.

I hadn't noticed before but the axels have different style hubs....the front one has what looks to be a newer style. I'll look at the two parts trucks I have and see if I've got a pair of good hubs to match.

I had one of the wheels stripped down for the blaster, and as you can see it's pretty rusty, but might still be serviceable. Rust had stuck the tire bad enough I had to cut the tire off the wheel.
Between the 3 trucks I have I think I've got 10 correct wheels but no extra for a spare. I do have two early style wheels (ACKW?) and might use one of those for the spare. The one pictured is dated '41

Next will be to pull the hubs and check bearings & brakes.

I need to start gathering parts before some become unavailable...seals, maybe brakes, brake hoses, hydrovac, etc. Plus I need to find a tailgate and replacement stake pockets for the cargo box. There will be many other parts but that's a start.
If anyone has suggestions for good parts sources please let me know.
 

Attachments

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Edmonton, Canada
I started shopping for a closed cab today........because of you. The nostalgia is one thing but the curves on the CCKW pull me in. When you get that truck done and suddenly there is a convoy behind you, it's just us trying to get a peak at it. The MVPA boys drive this Closed cab 40 miles to get to the Onoway parade I started running with my Dad in 2010. There's just something about it that makes a person want to follow it. Watching it being restored with lots of pics is a huge help to those who might get there. Thanks for keeping on wiht it and sharing. Here's the future.


P6110031.JPGP6110044.JPGP6110073.JPGP6110093.JPGP6110052.JPG
 

1944mb

Active member
419
110
43
Location
Big Timber, MT
I started shopping for a closed cab today........because of you. The nostalgia is one thing but the curves on the CCKW pull me in. When you get that truck done and suddenly there is a convoy behind you, it's just us trying to get a peak at it. The MVPA boys drive this Closed cab 40 miles to get to the Onoway parade I started running with my Dad in 2010. There's just something about it that makes a person want to follow it. Watching it being restored with lots of pics is a huge help to those who might get there. Thanks for keeping on wiht it and sharing. Here's the future.


View attachment 907375View attachment 907376View attachment 907377View attachment 907378View attachment 907379
You should go open cab. Then youd be thw only canadian north of Edmonton that specifically sought out an open can deuce.
 
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