I'm new and was wondering if anyone had converted the steering colmn/wheel assy in an M939 series truck to a GM tilt column with use of all the switches? I like the idea of a key start system and canceling t/s switch. I'm a mechanic and don't see a problem with the 24 volts as these are just switches and have no electronics thay would be voltage sensitive. Thanks for any input.
-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Steering column change
- Thread starter Gunzy
- Start date
- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
I have a keyed ignition in both of my 5 tons and they both have self canceling blinkers. I did not change the column I wouldn't know where to start with that one I would like a little thicker steering wheel.
wreckerman893
Possum Connoisseur
- 15,629
- 2,054
- 113
- Location
- Akenback acres near Gadsden, AL
There was a SS member in FL a few years ago (Devilman?????) that had a deuce with that type setup. He was a hellofa fabber and did all the work himself. I haven't seen him on here in a while.
phat6
New member
- 26
- 1
- 3
- Location
- Jasper, IN
Been searching for an answer on the site, but have not found one. What make/model keyed ignition did you use for your 5 ton? Was it a drop-in/no-mod swap? Which 5 ton do you have? I am looking for a drop-in keyed ignition swap-out for an M925A2.
- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
Any good quality marine type 3 wire ignition should work. You want one that allows power to the run lead while you are cranking or the fuel solenoid will not be engaged. Sealed ones with leads coming off are the best you can crimp or solder packard connectors onto the leads so no cutting truck wires. You will have to make the mounting hole a little larger.
Will
Will
phat6
New member
- 26
- 1
- 3
- Location
- Jasper, IN
Thanks.
Anyone have the specs for which the switch needs to be rated? Obviously do not want to put something in that cannot carry the appropriate loads. Would this work? It looks well sealed, but is only rated for "5A at 24V":
Also, does anyone know the size of the mounting hole, stock and if there is plenty of clearance behind the mounting hole (or if this area is tight/restricted)?
Would like to find a robust, drop-in, keyed replacement.
Anyone have the specs for which the switch needs to be rated? Obviously do not want to put something in that cannot carry the appropriate loads. Would this work? It looks well sealed, but is only rated for "5A at 24V":
- http://www.colehersee.com/home/item/cat/63/95060-03/
- UPDATE: says "spring return to off" - that won't work as that will kill the fuel when you let go of start
Also, does anyone know the size of the mounting hole, stock and if there is plenty of clearance behind the mounting hole (or if this area is tight/restricted)?
Would like to find a robust, drop-in, keyed replacement.
Last edited:
- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
I believe the ones I use are 10a rated. It needs to have off-run-crank with crank spring return to run. It needs to provide power to run while cranking. I have done several keyed ignitions I got one at west marine once it looked fine but the truck would only crank so I metered it and in crank it would not give power to the run lead. I called the manufacturer and he stated "my switches are not made for Diesel engines" so I told him that was something that probably should have been stated on the package at which time he hung up on me. They do have several at west marine that will work though. I have used the cole Hersee ones before with good results. All you are really doing is engaging a relay when you crank the relay does the high current work.
How about just using a keyed on/off switch to replace the battery switch? Not sure what it would need to be rated at, but it just controls the relays in the ignition protection box from off to on. I have been thinking about that as it would be much simpler than doing the actual ignition switch.
- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
It takes me about 15 minutes to make up and install the ignition switch. I make them plug and play. The hardest part is making the mounting hole larger. Takes a minute or two with a christmas tree bit.
- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
I will start making them with instructions if there is an interest. Sealed marine keyed ignitions with plug and play Packard connectors. They would be around 100 bucks plus shipping. I could do no sealed ones cheaper but you get what you pay for.
Will
Will
phat6
New member
- 26
- 1
- 3
- Location
- Jasper, IN
I would pay it for one if it would drop in / no modifications needed. Not too keen on drilling out / enlarging the hole, though.
- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
You would have to enlarge the hole other than that they are plug and play. I will post a few pics later today
- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
Once you take off the original switch it will drop out under the dash you can see in the first pic it has packard connectors. Then you enlarge the hole so it will fit the keyed ignition. You dont have to go too much larger. I think the original hole is around 5/8" and the keyed ignitions use 3/4". Use a meter to find the 24V+ connect that and the run and crank leads you have a 50/50 chance if you connect them wrong just switch them. Test it and stuff it up under the dash back into the hole and put the nut on.
phat6
New member
- 26
- 1
- 3
- Location
- Jasper, IN
Thanks for the pics. Makes it seem simple--simple for someone to hotwire too!
Ordered one of these:
Perhaps by some miracle it will fit. If not, I guess I will have to make the hole bigger. Will have to splice into the wiring also.
Ordered one of these:
Perhaps by some miracle it will fit. If not, I guess I will have to make the hole bigger. Will have to splice into the wiring also.
- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
That one will work you just have to crimp on the packard connector ends you dont want to cut the truck harness. I used one of those once the color coded wires were not correct I had to use the numbers on the plug to figure out what was what.
Will
Will
phat6
New member
- 26
- 1
- 3
- Location
- Jasper, IN
Where do you get the packard connectors? Been looking at the web, but most of what comes up looks to be packard-delphi multi-pin stuff with plastic housings. Where do you find the rubber booted singles like those on the truck? Thanks again for the help.
- 6,861
- 696
- 113
- Location
- Stratford/Connecticut
Ebay or most of the resellers have them. You will have to make the hole larger. The switch you ordered has 2 wires for each position you may have to solder them together and onto a single wire use it. A way to cheat is to take an old headlight bulb and cut the leads off. They already have the packard connector on one end and are nice thick wires.
machinist75
Member
- 777
- 7
- 18
- Location
- Murphy, TEXAS
Isnt this one a spring return to off? Earlier in the post it was said it needed to be spring return to on.
phat6
New member
- 26
- 1
- 3
- Location
- Jasper, IN
The website says spring return to off, but the datasheet says spring return to on. I think the datasheet is correct, and the website is incorrect, as why would you have a spring return from start to off?
Datasheet:
Website:
95060-04 Sealed Key Switch, 3-position
With anti-restart.
10A at 12V, 5A at 24V, 3A at 36V and 2A at 48V DC.
Three positions: Off - Ignition/Accessory - Start. Spring return to Off.
Keyswitch is constructed from engineering thermoplastic and is fully sealed using O-rings and ultrasonic welding to protect switch to ip67 (with connector installed). Accepts Deutsch-type connector- see Harness Kit #31101
Plastic facenut and nickel-plated brass backing nut. Sipplied with two matching keys. With protective key boot.
- Blister Pak
Add to Quote Print
