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Survival 109 build

tim292stro

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...So what's the smart thing to do (about putting away hot food in the refrigerator)?...
Put it in shallow containers and make sure there is air circulation on all sides. What you are trying to do is get the temp from over 140 F to less than 40 F as quickly as possible (less than 30 minutes, preferably 15-20). The 'danger zone' is considered between 40 and 140 F, where the number of bacteria can double every 20 minutes.
Yes, the transition time is the critical part. Also the circulation around the container part that Mike talks about is a reason to look at your fridge and make sure it doesn't look like this:
packed-fridge-269x300.jpg
Over-packed refrigerators will never cool the food at the front properly, and with the doors open the food at the front also gets warmed more often. Bad combination. And you need to clean (next to godliness right?) frequently - especially if there has been any rotting food anywhere in the fridge, or leaking meat containers.

View attachment Refrigerator_Myth.pdf

Ideally you want to cook food for serving immediately afterwards, or within 5-10 minutes (max). Any more than that and you need a holding plate, or food warming box to keep it hot (like a RAK-15 if you're mobile...). There is a sweet spot for those too, as holding it at temperature will continue to cook and dry out the food. If you intend to store it pack it so that it can be cooled quickly (this can mean packing thin meat cuts and surrounding the container with ice to get it down fast), and get it in the cooler/fridge. The last thing you want it to have is a warm core temperature.

If you are planning to cook for a large group especially with your own MKT, I'd recommend taking a Food Safety Class first (if you haven't already). For those of us who only cook for themselves or their immediate family but dream (or can only dream) of one day owning an MKT, here's a PSA:

http://homefoodsafety.org/safety-tips
http://www.foodsafety.gov/
http://www.eatright.org/Public/content.aspx?id=10948
 
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rustystud

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I'm all for a food safety training course ! After just experiencing food poisoning 2 weeks ago from a restaurant, I'm all in on food safety. The thread can afford to be hijacked for a good cause, for awhile anyway ;)
 

ODFever

Madness Takes Its Toll...
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Rustystud - I feel your pain. I'll never go to Ruby Pukesday's again {shudder}. There are only a few restaurants I trust that won't make me sick.

Quadjeeper - I'll make a feeble attempt at steering this thread back on course. I'm looking forward to seeing what you're able to create for a kitchen. Do you plan on having some kind of outdoor stove and sink so you don't have to cook in the M109?
 

SCSG-G4

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I agree, cooking should be done in a separate area from sleeping, either outside, or on a trailer. In the colonial times, our ancestors had their kitchens in a separate building because of the danger of fires. Microwave inside might be OK, but keep the really hot stuff away from where you sleep.
 

RAYZER

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When setting up a cooking area inside of a small area, it's necessary to have a range hood, back splash and good exsaust.
I had a custom stainless hood welded up, applied stainless surround, and used a 250 cfm 12v marine bilge blower for my exsaust, the blower is loud but effective!
I would rather cook outside and usually do because of the mess and heat but it's an advantage to be able to prepare a meal inside if necessary. I usually just have someone else feed me!uploadfromtaptalk1416493561933.jpguploadfromtaptalk1416493583859.jpg
 
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QUADJEEPER

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Rustystud - I feel your pain. I'll never go to Ruby Pukesday's again {shudder}. There are only a few restaurants I trust that won't make me sick.

Quadjeeper - I'll make a feeble attempt at steering this thread back on course. I'm looking forward to seeing what you're able to create for a kitchen. Do you plan on having some kind of outdoor stove and sink so you don't have to cook in the M109?
No plans currently for either, need to finish the interior first before thinking about that.
 

QUADJEEPER

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I agree, cooking should be done in a separate area from sleeping, either outside, or on a trailer. In the colonial times, our ancestors had their kitchens in a separate building because of the danger of fires. Microwave inside might be OK, but keep the really hot stuff away from where you sleep.
I am now using a microwave and also an induction cooktop. I have a gas cooktop but I don't like gas and it is an indoor flame. May decide to use it outdoors only.
 

QUADJEEPER

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Winter Springs, FL
When setting up a cooking area inside of a small area, it's necessary to have a range hood, back splash and good exsaust.
I had a custom stainless hood welded up, applied stainless surround, and used a 250 cfm 12v marine bilge blower for my exsaust, the blower is loud but effective!
I would rather cook outside and usually do because of the mess and heat but it's an advantage to be able to prepare a meal inside if necessary. I usually just have someone else feed me!View attachment 527899View attachment 527900
I cast my vote for RAYZER to do all of the cooking at outings! [thumbzup]
 

RAYZER

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Thanks for everyone's vote!
I use LP for the range top, furnace, water heater and outdoor grill, there are shutoff valves for each appliance and an explosive gas alarm, i keep the main shutoff valve closed when not in use and the range top and furnace valves closed all the time except when in use.
Most rv's and motor homes use LP to fuel their appliances, as long as everything is plumbed properly, maintained and common sence used there shouldn't be any unexpected exsplosions!
 

QUADJEEPER

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Winter Springs, FL
Thanks for everyone's vote!
I use LP for the range top, furnace, water heater and outdoor grill, there are shutoff valves for each appliance and an explosive gas alarm, i keep the main shutoff valve closed when not in use and the range top and furnace valves closed all the time except when in use.
Most rv's and motor homes use LP to fuel their appliances, as long as everything is plumbed properly, maintained and common sence used there shouldn't be any unexpected exsplosions!
Ah, but watch out for the expected explosions!:burn:
 

QUADJEEPER

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Still a bit under the weather but got a couple of things done this weekend. Wired up my interior 110 volt lamp and used an LED bulb, also finished the two 24 volt lamps. 110v is for when I am hooked up to shore power and all batteries are dead, 24v is if the house battery bank is dead but the starting batteries are up. So three way power for at least illumination. Pics are with 24v only, then 110v lit, and then the 12v LEDs.
 

Attachments

tim292stro

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If you're going to power house loads with the chassis batteries, consider a Priority Start device to ensure there is enough juice to get running again.

24V version

12V version

Not sure if you changed the chassis batteries to 12V or not. Each version can be found for less than $100 shipped from various retailers.
 
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QUADJEEPER

Member
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Winter Springs, FL
If you're going to power house loads with the chassis batteries, consider a Priority Start device to ensure there is enough juice to get running again.

24V version

12V version

Not sure if you changed the chassis batteries to 12V or not. Each version can be found for less than $100 shipped from various retailers.
Not planning on running the house loads off of the starting batteries. 12 AGM batteries are in the works for that. I just like having available lighting if the house batteries are not on line and I'm not plugged in to shore power.
 

tim292stro

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Tim, would this work also if you're running a power inverter off the chassis battery?...
Yes.

...Something worth getting in that case also?
If you are running a cheap inverter, or considering a cheap inverter, add the cost of this battery interrupter to the inverter and compare it to inverter models that have a low-voltage cut-out. If the cheapie-inverter+battery-interrupter is less than the more expensive inverter with a low-voltage cut-out, then I'd say "yes, it's worth it" but only if you are running loads from the start battery. Of course it could be argued that the same setup would help prevent overly-deep discharge of your house batteries too (if applicable), not everything has a low voltage cutout, and it only takes a few too deep discharges to shorten the life of deep cycles by 50%. That might make it cheaper to install the interrupter than to replace batteries more frequently...

...I just like having available lighting if the house batteries are not on line and I'm not plugged in to shore power...
When I was stripping out my bus, I ran a small string of 12V CFLs hanging in the bus so that I'd have light in there while I worked. One time I worked a little longer than I should have (got away with working "about" that long before). Fortunately there is a care taker on-site where I was doing the work with a jump pack...
 

KaiserM109

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SE Aurora, CO
I have a MKT85 and am ready to test burners as soon as weather warms enough to put up awning. I could see a MKT trailer as the base of a manly Coleman popup camper with the outside sidewalls attached. Guess others at the KOA campground would be scratching their heads with Deuce and GI camper in a camp slot.
am still trying to figure a triple bowl sink to satisfy the food police to cater with the MKT. I am trading for a M109 truck and may equip with a propane instant hot water heater and a triple sink ? SOS on a shingle for 200? Mark
I don't need to feed a batallion, but more sleeping area would be good since the 109 is for my wife and me. I am considering pulling out some of the kitchen equipment and making it a pop-up sleeper-kitchen.

Also either getting a custom tent or modifying one to attach it to the side of the truck might be a way to add sleeping area.
 
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