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Survival 109 build

QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
6
18
Location
Winter Springs, FL
Been a bit unmotivated lately but have tinkered a bit on the 109. I have a set of route clearance lights, not sure where I want them. Either on top of the fenders or on the upper corners of the box. I like the box location as it gives me some light for trail ( and street) overhead branches etc. Opinions welcome. Also a pic of my latest 6x6, a very used 99 Polaris Ranger. Will mainly be used for moving trailers around my property.
 

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rosco

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Delta Junction, Alaska
When I was a Kid, all the truckers had their driving lights, mounted low (below the drivers, line of sight). Today, you see them, mounted all over. Having a couple million in OTR driving - you want the driving lights low. Otherwise, snow, dust, fog, rain, is illuminated in the drivers line of sight, before the roadway is - creating an obstruction of vision - when they are mounted above the driver's eye level. I had two sets of driving lights, one set in the bumper (low), and the other set, just above the headlights, on the fenders. Between high & low beams, and the two different sets of lights, there was always a combination that worked. I do think you also need lights mounted up on the box corners though, but they should be flood type lights, for utility.
 

QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
6
18
Location
Winter Springs, FL
When I was a Kid, all the truckers had their driving lights, mounted low (below the drivers, line of sight). Today, you see them, mounted all over. Having a couple million in OTR driving - you want the driving lights low. Otherwise, snow, dust, fog, rain, is illuminated in the drivers line of sight, before the roadway is - creating an obstruction of vision - when they are mounted above the driver's eye level. I had two sets of driving lights, one set in the bumper (low), and the other set, just above the headlights, on the fenders. Between high & low beams, and the two different sets of lights, there was always a combination that worked. I do think you also need lights mounted up on the box corners though, but they should be flood type lights, for utility.
I pretty much have enough low level lights I think. LED headlamps, halogen driving lights on the bumper and halogen fogs under the bumper. That is why I'm leaning towards the over heads. I used to off road quite a bit in an other time ( read younger ) of my life, and do understand your statement of the dust, rain etc. being illuminated, but I want with the high body to see what is over the road/trail as well. Thanks for the input. :)
 

QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
6
18
Location
Winter Springs, FL
Did a little bit on the 109 today. Have had a larger horn to add to the truck for several months. Finally got it installed. Not finished yet though. Still need to wire it and connect an air line. Am planning on a shift lever mounted button so I can use it without removing my hands from the wheel rim and shifter. Also need to remount the stock horn. I cut a hole in the headlamp panel and screened it, figured the sound might get out front better that way. Also included a couple of pics of my air filter housing vent block off for those who questioned how I did it for the emergency shut down.
 

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QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
6
18
Location
Winter Springs, FL
Finally decided to mount my route clearance lights up on the upper front of the box. So I put the passenger side one on today. Wiring will come later, as I need to pull down the interior wall board to do so. Finishing up the horn install this afternoon.
 

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QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
6
18
Location
Winter Springs, FL
Ok, after a bit of a goof off period, getting back on track with the 109. Started sorting out my dual circuit brake conversion. Took multiple pictures of the donor truck parts before removing them. Also took many pics of my stock set up so I have a clue as to where it all goes. Opened up both air packs, not too bad, the left one was pretty clean, the right one the bore is funky, so it will need a more detailed honing. So far haven't been able to get the piston out of the master cylinder yet. I am planning on adding two more air tanks to the system, plumbing them seems fairly straight forward. However not sure how the trailer brake line should be set up. From both airpacks with a tee, or just from one? Any input would be appreciated.
 

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tim292stro

Well-known member
2,118
40
48
Location
S.F. Bay Area/California
...I cut a hole in the headlamp panel and screened it, figured the sound might get out front better that way...
Quick recommendation - idle you engine and feel the hole you cut, if air is getting blown out the front of your core support, you may be creating a path for hot radiator air to loop around the front of the radiator.
 

ageregunner

Active member
705
88
28
Location
Breinigsville, PA
Everything you have done is first class and very professional. I especially like your well thought out and tidy wiring installs, and your lighting upgrades. Well done!
 

QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
6
18
Location
Winter Springs, FL
Okay, got the airpacks honed out and cleaned up, so they are ready. Also opened up and cleaned the prop valve. Was stuck, so good that I did that. But the master cylinder is another story. Fought to get the rear ( secondary? ) piston out, was quite rusted in. I see no way, with all of the rust, to get the front piston out. And I see some fairly deep pitting in the bore. So I'm looking for a Bendix 2230600 master, new or rebuilt, if anyone has leads on that. Have been told Memphis might have them, will check this week. Any other sources?
 

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