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Survival 109 build

QUADJEEPER

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Winter Springs, FL
Following your progress avidly, and that is a beautifull modification for the cab door through.
Hmmm, ( after reading post 753) Two things for me to plan out now. Twin or at least an emergeancy (air or hydraulic) brake system. And a walk through.
Would you consider placing large repeaters on the rear box at the top corners?
I have those (side and turn/brake) on the rear top quarters of my 5 ton camper.
Not really looking to add any more rear lighting. If they hit stopped school busses with all of their lighting...
 

QUADJEEPER

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Was a slow day today, but feel like I got some important things done. Put up one more shower wall, no pics yet, don't want to jinx myself. Main project was to get the pass through door finished and the dinette table set up. I installed a Yale dead bolt lock and exterior handle. Then framed and insulated the inner side of the door. Aluminum gets cold in a hurry. Then used wood paneling for the inner finish side. Since the door was thinner than a typical residential door, had to add a block for the lock cylinder thickness. Actually quite easy to slide. Won't use it much, mostly for a fire exit.
 

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Another Ahab

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Was a slow day today, but feel like I got some important things done. Put up one more shower wall, no pics yet, don't want to jinx myself. Main project was to get the pass through door finished and the dinette table set up. I installed a Yale dead bolt lock and exterior handle. Then framed and insulated the inner side of the door. Aluminum gets cold in a hurry. Then used wood paneling for the inner finish side. Since the door was thinner than a typical residential door, had to add a block for the lock cylinder thickness. Actually quite easy to slide. Won't use it much, mostly for a fire exit.
It's impressive that you got all that done in a day.

My luck it would have taken 2-3 days over the course of 2-3 weeks to get something like that done, between:

- The Honey-Do's

- The interruptions

- Breaking for lunch.

- Going for parts and materials (right? you're always missing one d**n thing or another).

- Rain, or something else.

Your finished product looks great. [thumbzup]
 

QUADJEEPER

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Winter Springs, FL
Next was to get the table hinge bracket figured out and installed. My desired table height to work with my cushion height worked out to be 33 to 34". The top of the sliding door is about 37" high. So I needed to drop down the table hinge bracket, hence the ugly plywood drop down bracket. Not pretty, but it works. Wanted to use some nice butcher block for the top table surface, but no money or time to fetch it. Plywood to the rescue. Tomorrow will install the rails so the table top can be used for the bed support. Can seat 6, feed 4, sleep 2 currently. Lets eat! Also rebled the brakes this afternoon, road test tomorrow. Wish me luck!
 

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QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
6
18
Location
Winter Springs, FL
It's impressive that you got all that done in a day.

My luck it would have taken 2-3 days over the course of 2-3 weeks to get something like that done, between:

- The Honey-Do's

- The interruptions

- Breaking for lunch.

- Going for parts and materials (right? you're always missing one d**n thing or another).

- Rain, or something else.

Your finished product looks great. [thumbzup]
Ha ha, thanks AA. I HAVE to get it all done in time for the Oct. Rally. No sense in driving an incomplete rig all the way up there so I can sleep in a tent.
 

QUADJEEPER

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Winter Springs, FL
Got a productive day in for a change. First off I drove the truck this morning to test the brakes. Somewhat disappointed. Have bled it 'till the cows came home and still seems to be too soft of a pedal. And low too. Shoes are fully adjusted. Also with the larger wheel cylinders should have stronger bite and feel more effective. Not so much. I even removed the pressure gauges thinking they might impact the pedal feel and travel. No change. So I am open to suggestions. After driving I figured I'd drain the t case and trans since they were warm. Trans ok, added a magnet to the drain plug and filled with synthetic 80W-90. Transfer case magnetic plug had about a half a pound of bearing cage pieces clinging to it. Not good. I checked all of the external shafts for bearing play, input and rear output ok, front shaft has noticeable up and down play. Hope that is the bearing with the issues. It no longer turns during normal driving since I installed the front hubs.
 

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zout

In Memorial
In Memorial
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Columbus Georgia
Man.....you gotta stop slackin off bro....you have the most outstanding rally to be at in a very short time. Time to pucker up big guy....show us what ya got left in you to produce....no one remembers 2nd place folks.

Remember.....YOU CAN DO IT. We've seen it from you. Carry on trooper
 

QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
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Location
Winter Springs, FL
Then I turned my attention to some inside projects. Since the pass through door is now installed, I could install the water tank retaining strap. So I got that done as well as finished up the tank plumbing. I glued some rubber liner to the inside of the floor battery compartment door, glued the flooring to the top of it and installed a t rail for the edge of it. Also weatherstripped the opening to help block the compartment from the interior. The space is ventilated, so no need to heat or air condition it. Took a pic of the second tub enclosure wall plastic, shows yellow, is white. I HATE this stuff, but have to go with it for now. Will be replaced with something else later. Applied some finish to the table and got that fully in. Painted the underside white, edges green and varnished the top. Will install a chain to hold it fully up when it isn't needed. When it is placed on the aluminum rails in the seating frame, will support the mattress as a full bed. Have a leaf for the bed to fully support it. Still need to paint that.
 

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QUADJEEPER

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
797
6
18
Location
Winter Springs, FL
Man.....you gotta stop slackin off bro....you have the most outstanding rally to be at in a very short time. Time to pucker up big guy....show us what ya got left in you to produce....no one remembers 2nd place folks.

Remember.....YOU CAN DO IT. We've seen it from you. Carry on trooper
Then bring your hairy tail down here and pitch in!:clinto:
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
Got a productive day in for a change. First off I drove the truck this morning to test the brakes. Somewhat disappointed. Have bled it 'till the cows came home and still seems to be too soft of a pedal. And low too. Shoes are fully adjusted. Also with the larger wheel cylinders should have stronger bite and feel more effective. Not so much. I even removed the pressure gauges thinking they might impact the pedal feel and travel. No change. So I am open to suggestions. After driving I figured I'd drain the t case and trans since they were warm. Trans ok, added a magnet to the drain plug and filled with synthetic 80W-90. Transfer case magnetic plug had about a half a pound of bearing cage pieces clinging to it. Not good. I checked all of the external shafts for bearing play, input and rear output ok, front shaft has noticeable up and down play. Hope that is the bearing with the issues. It no longer turns during normal driving since I installed the front hubs.
Did you by chance see what pressures your brake system was at ? I'm wondering if your air-pac isn't acting up. You should see pressure in the 850psi to 900psi range. If you really give it the juice you should see almost 1000psi.
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
You've replaced all our rubber lines with the Teflon Stainless Steel ones right ? If you haven't I would. I've actually seen the rubber lines expand during brake application.
 

rustystud

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I just thought of another thing. Are your air-pacs the long or short style ? I remember a PM conversion Aaron (Peashooter) and I had about a year ago. We where talking about the ability of the short style air-pacs to supply enough fluid to supply four 1-1/2" wheel cylinders. If I remember right Aaron had calculated that it would be a "iffy" proposition and the wheel cylinders might not get enough fluid to fully apply.
 

QUADJEEPER

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Winter Springs, FL
Hoses are US, been on for over a year. Short air packs. If one air pack can do 6 stock wheel cylinders, then one should be able to do 4 slightly larger ones, yes?
 

peashooter

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Hanover, minnesota
When I changed over to a remote reservoir style m/c I had a difficult time bleeding it also. I lost track of how many times I bled it and still had a spongy pedal. I think I was getting some air trapped at the top of the master cylinder because the remote reservoir lines had to snake down before going back up to the reservoir..... Basically the air pocket would have had to magically sink in the fluid before bubbling up to the reservoir. I finally ended up putting a vacuum pump on the reservoir and connected one of the air pack bleeders to a jug of dot5. I saw a ton of bubbles come up! I then re-bled everything in case I sucked air in through the wheel cylinder's cups. Below is a link if it helps. If you have new pads it will take a little time for them to wear in to the shape of the drum also. With 6x of the larger wheel cylinders you can expect to have a lower pedal than you had with the stock cylinders. I'm sure you have enough air pack capacity for those bigger cylinders, I just never new if there was enough fluid capacity with the master cylinder to safely run 6 larger wheel cylinders and have some safety factor. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...Build-Thread&p=1546640&viewfull=1#post1546640
 
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Another Ahab

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Location
Alexandria, VA
You've replaced all our rubber lines with the Teflon Stainless Steel ones right ? If you haven't I would. I've actually seen the rubber lines expand during brake application.
That sounds kind of scary (especially on a single-circuit system):

- But I guess the rubber is rated fine to expand some over unlimited cycles

Is that right, or is that "scary"!?
 
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