The next Project an ASMH

[Vintagefarmer]

Will, do you already have a source and brand/pn's to swap that M62 over to "normal" hose and fitts and hook into the existing steel pipe? It looks like you have the A-W boom on it.. As you may know, the Ermeto fitts on the M62 were supposedly a 1-time special-order size exclusive to the A-W equipped M62's .. I have a number of machines in the construction world with Ermeto fitts but their sizes are common and obtainable.. I have not had any luck obtaining the M62's A-W size.

Anyway, if you need the brand/pn's of the "Ermeto-to-normal" adapters, I will dig out last years' purchase order receipts to get the nums .. I had to do the hoist motor hoses last year, about $430 for the pair incl labor and the adapters..

On fleabay last year I picked up a NOS roll of gates hose at 50% off that fits a 50-yo excavator here which has re-useable "field-serviceable" hoise fittings everywhere on it, and some Ermeto's like the M62 .. When the next hoses blow on the M62 , I just might buy some adapters and a roll of hose for it for myself , plus some parker field-serviceable fittings (yes they are available and great price considering they can be re-used over and over again).. It's nice to eliminate the costs of hyd hose shops with their pricey throw-away crimp fittings ... The only bad thing about the field-serviceables is you need a really good vice, lots of spray silicone, a beefy pair of arms or a lot of leverage with your wrenches Of course the smaller the hose, the easier it goes

Id be very much interested in this... I just blew a hoist hose on my M246 with the A-W crane... I was hoping I could just get normal lines made for it...

 

[WillWagner]

OK now. So, looked through all of the TMs here and not one goes in depth into the master cylinder, seems to be just skipped over. Rebuild an air pack, no problem, pictures everywhere, but none of the master cylinder.

I tried our local truck brake parts place, Franklin Truck Parts, all they can find is a complete cylinder or a rebuild kit with no picture or list of parts in the kit. All of the Mil Truck places have new masters OR kits, but again, the pictures differ, some show the check valve and seal, some don't.

I have searched the 5T forum and found a mess of stuff pertaining to the MC, but none with pictures or a diagram of what is in the cylinder. There are a few guys that have stated they rebuilt the thing, but they were last seen on the site before 2019, so reaching out to one of them probably wouldn't work.

Even tried my local NAPA, they usually do us well, but just got a call back and their place that rebuilt brake components no longer rebuilds, only offer new and have zero idea what is inside them.

Last hope, I have a call into Memphis Equip., Joe or Chris, to see if they can shed some light on my issue.

Might start a new thread about a 5T master cylinder......There has to be someone here that has been into one of these.

 

[msgjd]

Id be very much interested in this... I just blew a hoist hose on my M246 with the A-W crane... I was hoping I could just get normal lines made for it...

i am away for another week, will get on it when i return -- same goes for you WillWagner

 

[msgjd]

That would get his attention.

It sure did.. 40-some years later he sure hasn't forgotten it

 

[msgjd]

OK now. So, looked through all of the TMs here and not one goes in depth into the master cylinder, seems to be just skipped over. There has to be someone here that has been into one of these.

never had to mess with one ,,, yet ... I can tell you that you won't find anything at your local IH /Navistar parts counter either

 

[msgjd]

Keep going.
Break it into baby steps if you look at the whole picture you will start coloring outside the lines.

I flunked kindergarten cuz I couldn't color within the lines .. First part of that sentence was fact-checked by snopes and found to be untrue, but the 2nd part is true

 

[WillWagner]

OK, A bit of progress this week.

There are belt cross references here, but only one of those numbers are good, It is the air compressor belt.

Decided to pull all the belts. Fan belts came off easily, no stuck fasteners, easy peasy! Air compressor, it uses the same type pulley as the deuce did/does. A squirt of PB, a wrench on the back, couldn't find my compressor pulley wench, I think it went with the truck, so some big channel locks on the front, didn't even have to pull and off it came! The belt, now that's another story. It looked ok, but the cracks in the cogs were all the way to the backing, if it were put into service, I am afraid it would come apart and take out the other belts so it needed to be changed. There was a small issue though. The front mount set up is funky, the isolated mount on the frame has two isolators between the isolated plate and the engine mounted mount AND the engine mounted mount is an isolated trunion mount. WHY? Anyway, the isolators between the trunion mount and frame isolated plate are....old, kinda saggy, like us all when we get some age on us....and the gap between the plate and trunion is narrowed due to this. No biggie, just jack the engine up a bit and maybe enough space can be made, nope! OK, pull the two bolts that run through the frame mounted plate through the trunion plate. Drivers side came out too easy, pax side nope. Not just a nope, but aww hellno nope! The bolt turned easily but the nut didn't want to let go. To make matters more difficult, the trunion mount is above the nut, the damper is in front of it and the lower radiator piping is to the side of it and, there was apx 3/4 inch of threads sticking out of the nut. The mount has a recessed area where the fastener rests, so, between the recessed area and the mechaincal type lock nut, you know, all metal, slots cut into the top and pinched a bit...typical mil style lock nut, that has about 1/2 the height area to put a wrench on, there was only about 1/8 inch of the flats above the recessed area in the mount. Fun times. Worked on this for about an hour with zero forward progress. PB, heat, trying to wedge things betewwn the nut and the mount, nothing worked. A Snap-On Cummins overhead wrench fit in the hole and all the wat over the nut, but it was so tight, the force twisted the end of my wrench!

Decided to stop being nice to the belt and ended up just ripping it out of it's spot so it could be Measured.

Did I mention the parts train? It is full of ......stuff. In this case, lots of belts! Can you believe that there was not just 1 matched sets of fan belts, but TWO! Had to order a compressor belt, it will be here today.

 

[WillWagner]

On to the mount bolt. Got it off with some carnage and force. I sprayed it, heated it, sprayed it again, then let it sit overnite. Still stuck. I was tired of messing around. It needed to come out to install the new belt. Out came tools of destruction! Got the air hammer out and proceeded to try and split the nut. The bolt was loose in the mount, maybe that's why it is stuck? So it had to be held from the bottom. It took a bit, close to an hour, but I got movement, so we used an impact from the bottom and the air hammer from the top and the bolt FINALLY left its home!

I moved along to the master cylinder. Gave it a light hone, I used the donor casting that had the spacer and check valve, Gave everything a good cleaning and paint where needed and we now have a functioning master cylinder!

It needs a fluid change, we got some fresh oil for it, 15w40 diesel oil, and started looking for filters. I decided to pull one and have a look at it. Craig saw it and said that the filter was just a "Senior Military Filter". He goes over to a box in the filter room and pulls out two, NOS military oil filters!

Also in that room was a take off all brass fuel filter can! @BLK HMMWV , come see if you can spot a crack in this one!

Next week it gets oil and filters and a fuel filter can and possibly some brakes!

 

[WillWagner]

And a bit of paint. Sanding right now, Front bumper had the same paint under the fugly paint in the pics posted. The paint is peeling because the SG OD was not sanded before the last coat was applied.

 

[WillWagner]

And who can guess what this is!!??

 

[WillWagner]

If you guessed winch shear pin, you are a wiener!

Remember me jacking up the engine? Well the winch DS needed to be moved. I found the shaft able to turn freely. Got to snooping around and found the following.



The drum is all rats nested up, the fairlead is HARD into the tensioner and the cable from the spot the fairlead is jammed up into the tensioner, over the level winder to the point it wraps into the drum is freekin' TIGHT! I have released the drum lock and tried to release the clutch but that thing is jammed up!

Anyone have any pointers as to how to relieve the tension on the cable? I have tried to turn the input shaft, ain't gonna happen.

Hopefully the shear pin did it's job.

 

[Guyfang]

Yes sir! I would have guessed winch sheer pin. Having had to replace a few over the years on active. That was my first thought. Three weeks ago, I had to unwind a rats nest like that, But it was a Hyd. winch, and had not sat more then two years. Took 4-4.5 hours, and I wanted to bring the torch out at least twice. Without laying hands on it, I would not even begin to make a suggestion. Is the cable worth the effort to save it?

 

[WillWagner]

A bit more progress today, I took yesterday off to handle stuff for the off road stuff that needs attention, it IS the season! Got a new compressor belt and installed it. Installed and tightened the motor mount bolts. Attempted to install the new....from 02-77...fan/gen belts, but no way in heel they would go on. They measured 57 inches in diameter, the same as the ones I took off, but were so hard, they had no give in them. I ended up giving my NAPA guy the p/n listed in the parts list, but that is NLA. Did some research and found a NAPA belt 57.25 inches, 25/32 width and have that on order. Installed the M/C, pulled #2 and 3 plugs and swapped 2 known good 2245 plugs, replaced the cracked fuel filter can, drained and re filled with some fresh 15W40 oil and some NOS filters.

Hit the button...well, the plunger on the floor...and the beast lit off hitting on all 6! Good OP, 60 psi cold idle, compressor built air, governor works, sorta, no miss, sounds good except for the exhaust leak from a cracked center section at #3. Ain't gonna change that even though I think there are gaskets and a center section in the parts train!

 

[WillWagner]

A bit kinda OT, but here is some of the stuff that needs attn. TTR needs carb stuff, it should be here Monday. The Grand Kids should love it! The RZR needs tires, have had them in the garage for 2 years, just wanted to get the most out of them, re-grooved once but now they feel like riding on ice! Also need to re- route the pax side comm PTT cable so it is out of the way and neat.

Did 300 miles on the RXR last weekend, it was WAY too hot still!

@BLK HMMWV , we need to get Hefffes out to my place and fix it up!

 

[BLK HMMWV]

A bit kinda OT, but here is some of the stuff that needs attn. TTR needs carb stuff, it should be here Monday. The Grand Kids should love it! The RZR needs tires, have had them in the garage for 2 years, just wanted to get the most out of them, re-grooved once but now they feel like riding on ice! Also need to re- route the pax side comm PTT cable so it is out of the way and neat.

Did 300 miles on the RXR last weekend, it was WAY too hot still!

@BLK HMMWV , we need to get Hefffes out to my place and fix it up!


View attachment 908107View attachment 908108

At least you could paint them 383 or 686 or O.D. something.
The big one might pass as urban camo, but the blue one no way.

I'm still trying to recover from Power Trip last week and Weekend it was 104 in the shade.
Good thing you retired from the Boom Boom. I'm going to have to re -retire from it myself. (might need an intervention just saying, it's in my blood man can't give it up)
Probably was the last time the confused electrical band will take the stage. Glad I was a part of their history.
I did manage to leave a nice carbon footprint for them.

I think the frame is bent on Jeff's hotrod, you sure you want to tackle that at your house?.

 

[WillWagner]

My trip, the same weekend was 104....saw 100 in the trailer, rode 300 miles in 3 1/2 days. Time for some maintenance!

Moved onto hydraulics today. Had someone come out, measure and give us a price to do all of the lines from the tank out.

Keep in mind, never been around one of these, but have had to do hyd. hoses on projects I have done in the past, in a former life....that's why I called someone . We got around to the hoses under the pig. Seems that the system is fed through #16 lines from the tank to all of the working elements, crowd, lift and rotate. Well, the #16 lines that run to the center of the rotation area, run apx 2 feet up into the center into a swivel cylinder, I get that, HOWEVER, in browsing through the TMs here....we don't have the correct one for the wrecker body in the library....it seems that the boom needs to come off to replace these lines. Please say that ain't so!

Why in the he double toothpicks would someone design something like that for a vehicle that is designed to things under stress?

Anyone ever replaced the bottom lines on an M62? The body on this truck has the hyd tank in the front of the bed, so it is an early one.

We have a second wrecker bed, the one that has the tank mounted to the side of the boom. Can that bed be swapped to the M62 chassis?

It seems that if the above can happen, it might be easier than pulling the boom.

Are the control rods the same between the bed on the M62 v.s the bed off of an 816, which is what I believe is what the other bed is.

This is more work than I care to do I think......

Depressed, but love you all!

Will

 

[BLK HMMWV]

My trip, the same weekend was 104....saw 100 in the trailer, rode 300 miles in 3 1/2 days. Time for some maintenance!

Moved onto hydraulics today. Had someone come out, measure and give us a price to do all of the lines from the tank out.

Keep in mind, never been around one of these, but have had to do hyd. hoses on projects I have done in the past, in a former life....that's why I called someone . We got around to the hoses under the pig. Seems that the system is fed through #16 lines from the tank to all of the working elements, crowd, lift and rotate. Well, the #16 lines that run to the center of the rotation area, run apx 2 feet up into the center into a swivel cylinder, I get that, HOWEVER, in browsing through the TMs here....we don't have the correct one for the wrecker body in the library....it seems that the boom needs to come off to replace these lines. Please say that ain't so!

Why in the he double toothpicks would someone design something like that for a vehicle that is designed to things under stress?

Anyone ever replaced the bottom lines on an M62? The body on this truck has the hyd tank in the front of the bed, so it is an early one.

We have a second wrecker bed, the one that has the tank mounted to the side of the boom. Can that bed be swapped to the M62 chassis?

It seems that if the above can happen, it might be easier than pulling the boom.

Are the control rods the same between the bed on the M62 v.s the bed off of an 816, which is what I believe is what the other bed is.

This is more work than I care to do I think......

Depressed, but love you all!

Will

Wow.
You definitely have an uphill battle.
I'm going to get a new phone # tomorrow.
If I don't answer leave a message.
I'm probably going to be in the witnesses protection program until you get the hoses replaced.
Baby steps. !!
Did they give you idea of cost to replace hoses?.
Is that in budget?
Can other things be done to truck while funds raised?
You probably will still know how to find me.
I will help you in my limited capacity as an old guy who tries to follow directions and stay off the phone , the competent part might still be a problem but I'm a smoke signal away.
BH

 

[msgjd]

Id be very much interested in this... I just blew a hoist hose on my M246 with the A-W crane... I was hoping I could just get normal lines made for it...

my guess the following are Parker numbers but am not sure .. This batch was to adapt the main boom cylinder to "normal" hose fittings , but should get you into the correct ballpark of what you need to find for the hoist motor .. The Ermeto pipe adapters might be Adaptall brand, I don't recall .. Again, all these numbers are to do the main boom cylinder. (the big fat vertical one)

(2) 10643-20-16 @$33ea in 2021
(2) 10143-16-16 @$19ea in 2021
(2) 9605-20-L27-38x1.5 @$90ea. in 2021. (Ermeto pipe adapters)
(6ft) TC16 hose at about 15 bucks a foot

PICTURED is an Ermeto adapter .. The exposed threads are what the nut on the pipe will mate to.. The other end mates to the "normal" swivel hyd fitting seen

 

[msgjd]

Anyone have any pointers as to how to relieve the tension on the cable? I have tried to turn the input shaft, ain't gonna happen. Hopefully the shear pin did it's job.

My M817 was rats-nested when obtained, hook bound tight, with busted shear pin.. I resorted to a 24" pipe wrench with pipe cheater and backed off the input coupler until it eventually turned easy.. Then inserted a new pin and pay out some more until I could release the winch hook from the bumper..

Then came the "fun" of cleaning up the rats nest. I obtained Soldier B, always prefer an extra set of eyes when running a winch because we alone cannot see what is happening on that spool if we prefer to run the dang things from the cab.. I never trust any front control to release exactly when I need it to .. What I have done to loosen up (and take out) a rats nest is have Soldier B tie the hook to a suitable object other than your wife's car or cat. (tempted many times)

Then back up a little until the cable suspends in air but is not tight.. Then have Soldier B watch the winch and yell when you pay out a few inches to a foot.. Shut winch off ,, back up a little to again suspend the cable.. Continue the (tedious) process until the mess is cleared.. This method assumes that Soldier B can see the overlaps loosen just enough to allow any trapped cable to come free as you back up .. Anyway, that is what worked for us, oh, and a very long driveway

 

[BLK HMMWV]

Did I miss any smoke signals?
Awfully quiet on the 5 ton wrecker channel.