tim292stro's M1009 (formerly math1960's)

[rsh4364]

Wow nice,that stuff is about 1lb per foot,I thought I went overboard with all 1/0 ga. oxygen free tinned copper cables,all your power going to get to where it needs to be for sure.

 

[tim292stro]

When all else fails, girth.

Not much happening on the truck tonight...

Reds are in town, so the in-laws are at the game with us.

 

[Another Ahab]

When all else fails, girth.

Not much happening on the truck tonight...View attachment 581838

Reds are in town, so the in-laws are at the game with us.

That's a nice-looking ballpark; reminds me of Fenway (it was a long time ago, but I think it's that "Big Board" or something).

 

[tim292stro]

to me it feels small relative to other ballparks I've been to - including the Oakland A's Coliseum and the Reds Great American Ballpark

 

[Recovry4x4]

I've not been to The Great American ballpark but as far as Cinci goes, been to Riverfront and even Crosley Field. Here in S FL, Marlins Park is local. It's nice but not very big. Riverfront seemed half again as large.

 

[rsh4364]

The 1/0 gauge cable I have been using is described as 5145 strands of tinned oxygen free copper,is oxygen free copper a sales gimmick? Or is there a difference.The 4/0 gauge they sell is listed at 10,000 plus strands of same stuff.Holy cow that's some serious cable!

 

[tim292stro]

Oxygen free is a marketing thing - copper oxidizes rapidly in the presence of Earth's atmosphere, unless you coat the individual strands of copper with something like tin immediately after production, the copper will corrode eventually.

Yeah, the 4/0 I've been looking at is 10290 strands of 36 gauge tin plated wire, nice and flexible and tons of circular mils to carry that current. At worst case design starting current (~2000Amps), it should tolerate 12.5 feet and the return trip no problem (about a 2V drop, or just under 8%). With the Odyssey 31M-PC2150 batteries I'm going to put in, the 1545 hot cranking amps should only drop 1.5V or 6% which is darn near ideal. For non-essential circuits with continuous loads like the cabin blower/fan, the automotive industry allows 5% drop. The cables should have no trouble with a short crank, less volts lost to the cable means more to the starter, and more starter volts directly equates to faster RPMs.

 

[tim292stro]

I'll be picking at the Blazer in the evenings this weekend, biggest deal I need to focus on is getting out of the other storage unit - only have this weekend and next weekend to do it, and I'd rather be done this week so I can work on the Blazer. I also have to strip the parts out of the Toyota that I want to keep before I dump it, time is short and it's falling apart fast...

More parts came today, front turn signal assemblies and the 24V 28MT starter for GM. AntennaClimber Glow plug controller came from HillBillyWizard yesterday, as did half of the 4/0 lugs (battery terminals Tuesday). I dug out the grille from storage today when I grabbed the first of several Base-X tents to move, so that's at the "top of the pile" now. Still haven't tackled that ignition switch .

 

[Another Ahab]

Oxygen free is a marketing thing - copper oxidizes rapidly in the presence of Earth's atmosphere, unless you coat the individual strands of copper with something like tin immediately after production, the copper will corrode eventually.

Is the oxidation considered "corrosion" (like eventually reducing the copper to dust), or is it more like a sealed coating?

That was what I always thought the green "patina" was about (but believe me I'm no chemist or anything).

Does anybody know?

 

[rsh4364]

Good ?,I see green patina on copper exposed to the elements.But have seen a white powdery corrosion on electrical connections,whats the difference?

 

[math1960]

Tim, I had both the alternators rebuilt soon after buying the truck. The second one I left in back was never remounted, so should be good. Wally

 

[tim292stro]

Stuck at the apartment with kids this morning so I'll catch up on the posts I missed yesterday.

Is the oxidation considered "corrosion" (like eventually reducing the copper to dust), or is it more like a sealed coating?
That was what I always thought the green "patina" was about (but believe me I'm no chemist or anything).

Oxidation of copper is the reaction of oxygen atoms with the copper atoms. This reaction converts copper into copper oxide, a blackish substance. The copper starts to look "dull", then dark, then black - you can see this effect with older wiring when you strip near the original exposed ends. Copper oxidation that occurs with the addition of salts or other contaminants will result in a patina, which is essentially a "pickling" of the outer copper layer, and like pure aluminum oxide this layer is very robust.

To be sure, the conductivity of copper oxide and other corrosion is much lower than pure copper, in fact copper oxide is considered a semi-conductor and is how some companies moving from silicon chips to copper are making transistors. In a power circuit, you want conductors to carry power, and other components to control and use the power. A semiconductor does not make a good wire, so efforts like tinning a wire strand as an oxygen barrier will keep it running as a good conductor for longer.

...I see green patina on copper exposed to the elements. But have seen a white powdery corrosion on electrical connections, whats the difference?

That sounds like you might have a contaminant on the wire as it corrodes. If you are in an area with road salts, sea air, or even terminals near a battery - modern lead carbonate plates can yield a carbonate salt vapor out the battery vents while charging/discharging this will condense on any surface that is below the dew point for that vapor, and will build up and react over time.

Clean, clean, clean!!! Then use a corrosion inhibitor spray near the battery to prevent future corrosion. I have heard the praises sung for No-Ox, I bought a few jars and a tube of it to play with for this purpose (conductive corrosion inhibiting grease), for battery terminal I've used a generic red protective spray, there are many various equivalents for this.

 

[rsh4364]

Thanks,I use no-ox on all my stuff.

 

[Another Ahab]

Clean, clean, clean!!! Then use a corrosion inhibitor spray near the battery to prevent future corrosion. I have heard the praises sung for No-Ox, I bought a few jars and a tube of it to play with for this purpose (conductive corrosion inhibiting grease),

An 8 oz tube (which I've heard described as a lifetime supply), is around $18 (plus shipping).

Here's one link

http://www.amazon.com/OX-A-Special-Conductive-Grease-Antenna/dp/B00HSW341A​

 

[tim292stro]

Yeah, make sure you read that it's 8oz not 8grams...

Tube is much bigger than a tube of toothpaste, small jars are about the size of a delicatessen jam. I wouldn't have ordered the jars had I noticed that at the time...

 

[rsh4364]

Just remember no-ox is conductive and dielectric grease is not,I use no -ox on batt.cable ends and such.And dielectric on bulbs and fuses.

 

[Another Ahab]

Just remember no-ox is conductive and dielectric grease is not,I use no -ox on batt.cable ends and such.And dielectric on bulbs and fuses.

Is conductivity there (bulbs and fuses), a BAD thing?

 

[tim292stro]

From positve directly to negative yes, No-ox is okay on large connectors, or in enclosed physically separated devicese

Where two pins are close together, there is a risk of shorting the device out...

 

[jpg]

Is no-ox-id A Special conductive?

Just remember no-ox is conductive and dielectric grease is not,I use no -ox on batt.cable ends and such.And dielectric on bulbs and fuses.

I don't think this is correct. As I understand it, no-ox-id A Special is dielectric grease with a corrosion-eating chemical added. That chemical destroys existing corrosion on your connector, leaving a cleaner connection buried under the grease.

Some conductors, like aluminum, oxidize quickly. You can clean them with an abrasive, and in the time it takes you to coat them with grease, they form a new oxide layer. No-Ox-Id is designed to eat that new oxide layer.

After reading this post, I took my best Ohmmeter and tested a bead of no-ox-id A Special. It does not conduct electricity. I use it on all my electrical contacts, without fear that any misplaced grease might conduct electricity.

Note that there is an "Electrical Grade" of no-ox-id A Special that I did not test. I suspect the results would be the same, but I encourage anyone using it to test for themselves.

The No-Ox-Id marketing materials call it a conductive grease, but I think this is misleading. It does help 2 connected conductors conduct electricity, by stripping away old corrosion and protecting them from new corrosion. It does not conduct electricity itself. I think it would more properly be called a contact grease.

There are conductive greases out there that do conduct electricity. Some have powdered metal mixed in, for instance (a real recipe for galvanic corrosion, IMHO). According to my best ohmmeter, no-ox-id A Special does not conduct electricity.

 

[tim292stro]

Well my dad got fidgety, and pulled the steering wheel while I was at work today, so I had to follow that effort up with putting in the new ignition key cylinder. No pictures, one hand holding a flashlight the other a screw driver or some other tool. Everything back together, no extra parts left over, and no empty screw holes . Now all the light fixtures are up to snuff (added rear license plate light), contacts and grounds cleaned and reattached, switches lubed, everything functionally tested and working - should pass deep scrutiny from LEO.

DMV (AAA) Thursday morning, plates and on the road

Once on the road I'll be addressing some other things like replacing the grille, NATO port, reversing the Roscommon 12V mod, and then digging into the rubber replacements. All of the rubber is shot, door gaskets, window seals and felt runners, windshield wipers. Once it's back to "complete" and weather tight, I'll move on to interior stuff, then tires, shocks, etc...

Next summer I should be able to do some paint.