To get my HMMWV (M1097A2) in good running order... need help.

[Mogman]

It looks like your truck would use the RED 36 tooth gear.

 

[Mogman]

If it were me I would put a want in the classifieds to see if someone has all the pieces you need.

 

[DEA AK]

If it were me I would put a want in the classifieds to see if someone has all the pieces you need.

Thank you.

 

[DREDnot]

Its been a while since I had one apart to be honest. Try pulling that shaft and see if it comes out and turns out to be the driven gear. It should just slide out if it is.

 

[DEA AK]

Its been a while since I had one apart to be honest. Try pulling that shaft and see if it comes out and turns out to be the driven gear. It should just slide out if it is.

I will give that a try. Appreciate the help.

 

[mccullek]

I will give that a try. Appreciate the help.

Additional question on transmission filter change. I was always told never to change the transmission filter in older vehicles if you are not having issues, as changing the filter stirs up a lot of sediments that later damages the transmission. This actually happened to my old bronco, so I've never changed my HMMWV filter for fear of this issue. Is this a problem with the HMMWVs, or should I just change out the filter to avoid future issues? I'm torn about what to do, as my previous experience has made me gun shy about changing transmission filters.

 

[DREDnot]

I was always told never to change the transmission filter in older vehicles if you are not having issues, as changing the filter stirs up a lot of sediments that later damages the transmission.

I've only heard that about having a "full Flush" service done. Never about a basic filter change. Dealers and some shops used to offer a flush that used a machine that flushed the entire system with fresh fluid. Sounded good in theory but moved debris into the valve body where hilarity ensued. Now its only something you do when you take out a grenaded transmission before you put the new one back in. Go ahead and do the basic filter change and replace the ATF that was in the pan. Make sure you clean out all the mung in the trans pan.

 

[mccullek]

I've only heard that about having a "full Flush" service done. Never about a basic filter change. Dealers and some shops used to offer a flush that used a machine that flushed the entire system with fresh fluid. Sounded good in theory but moved debris into the valve body where hilarity ensued. Now its only something you do when you take out a grenaded transmission before you put the new one back in. Go ahead and do the basic filter change and replace the ATF that was in the pan. Make sure you clean out all the mung in the trans pan.

View attachment 908405

Thanks for the information. Looks like we are changing a filter.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I've only heard that about having a "full Flush" service done. Never about a basic filter change. Dealers and some shops used to offer a flush that used a machine that flushed the entire system with fresh fluid. Sounded good in theory but moved debris into the valve body where hilarity ensued. Now its only something you do when you take out a grenaded transmission before you put the new one back in. Go ahead and do the basic filter change and replace the ATF that was in the pan. Make sure you clean out all the mung in the trans pan.

View attachment 908405

problem is, your leaving 60% or more of the dirty fluid in the torque converter, cooler and lines, you only get 4 quarts from the pan….thats the reason for the flush, the black stuff is clutch plate.

 

[DREDnot]

problem is, your leaving 60% or more of the dirty fluid in the torque converter, cooler and lines, you only get 4 quarts from the pan….thats the reason for the flush, the black stuff is clutch plate.

Agreed.
Thats why I said it sounds good on paper.
I would love to change out all the fluid...but...what I've been hearing from a few different professional sources is that power flushing seemed to be moving undesirable particles from nooks and crannies in the torque converters and coolers and ending up in valve bodies and causing failures soon after the flush was performed. Just passing along a revision to "best practice" that I had been hearing more of as of late.

The main point of my reply was to try to dispel poster mccullek"s rumor about the filter change causing the sediment migration issue and not wanting to change fluid and filter at all.

This idea could also be coming from the "lifetime ATF" that newer cars "have" that is the reason for sealed transmissions with no dipstick or tube even. That is a whole subject of discussion in itself

 

[DREDnot]

After looking around, I have discovered that I am missing speedometer parts... the pic shown is the big hole in my case and I am wondering, in addition to the obvious parts missing; 1, 24, 23, 22, 21, 20, 19, and 18 could anyone tell me if part number 17 is actually in there? As you can see from the terrible picture, there is a metal shaft of some sort. It would be great if 17 is in there - it would be just one less part I'd have to buy :-/

Thank you

Finally got some fresh info for you on this.

I believe you ARE missing part number 17. What your pic is showing is the machined aluminum pad that hold the bottom of that geared shaft in place like a plain thrust bearing surface. Pics show part 17 as it falls loose when removing the housing. You can also see pics of the indexing marks I was telling you about.
This unit (M1114 turbo) had the red gear with 36 teeth











That little raised bump next to the 32-38 line is what you have to line up to set the correct "backlash/pinon depth" of the red gear to that white ring gear. (The bore of the #19 housing is eccentric to accomplish this)

 

[mccullek]

Agreed.
Thats why I said it sounds good on paper.
I would love to change out all the fluid...but...what I've been hearing from a few different professional sources is that power flushing seemed to be moving undesirable particles from nooks and crannies in the torque converters and coolers and ending up in valve bodies and causing failures soon after the flush was performed. Just passing along a revision to "best practice" that I had been hearing more of as of late.

The main point of my reply was to try to dispel poster mccullek"s rumor about the filter change causing the sediment migration issue and not wanting to change fluid and filter at all.

This idea could also be coming from the "lifetime ATF" that newer cars "have" that is the reason for sealed transmissions with no dipstick or tube even. That is a whole subject of discussion in itself

I have some experience with this, so that's why I brought it up. I have an old bronco and it was running fine, and I never had a moments problem with the transmission. I took it in for an oil and lube to my mechanic and he talked me into changing the filter on the transmission. I do believe he flushed it as well. Within 30 days the torque converter was having issues and making noises. I had to have the transmission rebuilt on it afterwards. The transmission people were the ones that told me never to change the filter if you aren't having issues, as that was likely the cause of my torque converter failure.

Since that happened, I have never changed another transmission filter on any of my vehicles. I was not going to change it on my HMMWV either, but I keep reading where people suggest that it should be changed, thus my original question of how important it was, and is there any concern with it causing other issues to the transmission. I'm just a shade tree mechanic, although I can perform most procedures when I have a step-by-step manual as we get with most of the military vehicles. I've even figured out some of the more complicated issues that aren't in any manual with my LRT-110 military crane, but I have zero understanding of the inner workings of a transmission, so I wanted to ask from someone that would know and get additional advice so that I don't make another mistake like I did with my old bronco.

I appreciate the feedback and the discussion, as this is how we all learn.

 

[Mogman]

I have some experience with this, so that's why I brought it up. I have an old bronco and it was running fine, and I never had a moments problem with the transmission. I took it in for an oil and lube to my mechanic and he talked me into changing the filter on the transmission. I do believe he flushed it as well. Within 30 days the torque converter was having issues and making noises. I had to have the transmission rebuilt on it afterwards. The transmission people were the ones that told me never to change the filter if you aren't having issues, as that was likely the cause of my torque converter failure.

Since that happened, I have never changed another transmission filter on any of my vehicles. I was not going to change it on my HMMWV either, but I keep reading where people suggest that it should be changed, thus my original question of how important it was, and is there any concern with it causing other issues to the transmission. I'm just a shade tree mechanic, although I can perform most procedures when I have a step-by-step manual as we get with most of the military vehicles. I've even figured out some of the more complicated issues that aren't in any manual with my LRT-110 military crane, but I have zero understanding of the inner workings of a transmission, so I wanted to ask from someone that would know and get additional advice so that I don't make another mistake like I did with my old bronco.

I appreciate the feedback and the discussion, as this is how we all learn.

That probably had nothing to do with the filter.
I have been twisting wrenches for over 50 years both as an occupation and a hobby and have never heard this.
At least I would someone try to explain how a clean filter can cause a failure.

 

[mccullek]

That probably had nothing to do with the filter.
I have been twisting wrenches for over 50 years both as an occupation and a hobby and have never heard this.
At least I would someone try to explain how a clean filter can cause a failure.

I have had people agree, and people disagree, so I honestly do not know? They say it stirs up sediments that get into the torque converter. It seems I'm not the only one to have heard this can happen but in my asking around, I get mixed responses. Guess I'm going to change my filter on the HMMWV since most seem to be doing so with no issues.

 

[DEA AK]

Finally got some fresh info for you on this.

I believe you ARE missing part number 17. What your pic is showing is the machined aluminum pad that hold the bottom of that geared shaft in place like a plain thrust bearing surface. Pics show part 17 as it falls loose when removing the housing. You can also see pics of the indexing marks I was telling you about.
This unit (M1114 turbo) had the red gear with 36 teeth

View attachment 908490

View attachment 908491

View attachment 908492

View attachment 908493

View attachment 908494

That little raised bump next to the 32-38 line is what you have to line up to set the correct "backlash/pinon depth" of the red gear to that white ring gear. (The bore of the #19 housing is eccentric to accomplish this)

great info, thank you very much!

 

[DEA AK]

deleted.

 

[Mogman]

I love these little Chinese chargers, I have been using them for 8 years or so, you can use one to charge both at the same time or two to charge the batteries individually, no need to isolate them to use two chargers.
And you can leave them on indefinitely as they turn themselves on and off automatically.

Car Battery Charger 12/24V 8A Intelligent Automatic Pulse Repair AGM/GEL Motor | eBay

Charging lithium batteries is prohibited. Battery Type: All SLA batteries (Wet, MF, GEL, VRLA and Flooded), AGM (EFB). Charging current: 4~ 8A. The positive and negative electrodes must be clamped onto the battery or battery before selecting the mode to be effective.

www.ebay.com

 

[DEA AK]

I love these little Chinese chargers, I have been using them for 8 years or so, you can use one to charge both at the same time or two to charge the batteries individually, no need to isolate them to use two chargers.
And you can leave them on indefinitely as they turn themselves on and off automatically.

Car Battery Charger 12/24V 8A Intelligent Automatic Pulse Repair AGM/GEL Motor | eBay

Charging lithium batteries is prohibited. Battery Type: All SLA batteries (Wet, MF, GEL, VRLA and Flooded), AGM (EFB). Charging current: 4~ 8A. The positive and negative electrodes must be clamped onto the battery or battery before selecting the mode to be effective.

www.ebay.com

24v charger?@!? I guess I should have known... great info, thank you.

 

[Coug]

I am thinking that this charger set up might work to charge each battery separately with the kill switch set to OFF. Am I off base or crazy or would this work?

Thanks

Another option is the NO.CO 2 bank chargers. They are specifically designed that they can charge 2 12V batteries whether they are independent or if they are wired in series.

I have the gen5x2 in my truck, as do several others, and it works great.

NOCO - 2-Bank 10A On-Board Battery Charger - GEN5X2

The GEN5X2 is a 2-bank 10-amp waterproof on-board battery charger for lead-acid and lithium batteries and rated at IP68.

no.co

 

[DEA AK]

Another option is the NO.CO 2 bank chargers. They are specifically designed that they can charge 2 12V batteries whether they are independent or if they are wired in series.

I have the gen5x2 in my truck, as do several others, and it works great.

NOCO - 2-Bank 10A On-Board Battery Charger - GEN5X2

The GEN5X2 is a 2-bank 10-amp waterproof on-board battery charger for lead-acid and lithium batteries and rated at IP68.

no.co

Thank you very much.