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Towing M37 w/M35A2

LiqTenEXp

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Hi,

I am possibly towing an M37 with my M35 to the MTA show this April using a towbar. We will also have tow lights on the back of the M37.

The weight of the M37 is under 6,000 lbs so it fits well within the 10,000 lb capacity of the deuce. I was searching around and found this thread:

Towing an M37 - Steel Soldiers::Military Vehicles Supersite

It appears that I might be in for more than I expected. Can anyone speak from experience about towing this Jeep?

My trucks brakes are having a go through this winter/spring as you can see from some of my other threads. I won't be concerned about stopping, just having this 6000 lb wandering jeep hanging off the back of my truck. Speeds will be in the 40 mph range or less.
 

JB

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Tallahassee/Havana
My Dad had towed them before and said he will not do it again unless the front wheels are off the ground. They do not track well and will turn over on you. Use a dolly.
 

NDT

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I have done this many times. The M37's front wheels will not follow going around a corner. They will stay straight and scrub. Otherwise no big deal.
 

ETBaals

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towing

hi
With the tow bar the front tires should track fine
I have towed many M37s, some with ny M211 when i had it, others with my F250.
If the front tires do not track, there is a steering problem with the truck. It could be just be a lack of lubrication.
The only time i noticed a braking problem, was on wet pavemant, the old ND tires don't like to grab pavement under good conditions, let alone slick pavement.
As long as the M37 your towing corrects is self back to center when you drive it, you should be fine. If not, grease and llube everyting until it does.
Good luck, hopw to see you there
Ernie
 
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rosco

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I have towed the M37 several times with a M211. I don't care about scubing, but to keep the wheels from turning sideways, tie the steering wheel off with a couple of bungee cords in the neutral position. A trailer is always best. There probably isn't enough castor built into the front axle for it to tow well.

Lee in Alaska
 

Bill W

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Ditto on the bungie cords
Braking shouldn't be a issue as I towed my 37 on a trailer ( no trailer brakes hooked up ) and had no problem stopping
 

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BigEddieM37

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I'm the "tow-ee" that LiqTenExp is referring to. A few years ago my M37 broke down in the NYC Veteran's Day parade (in front of St. Patrick's no less...) and one of the other MTA club members, with their Humvee, towed me through the remainder of the parade and back home to NJ. As I sat in the cab of the M37 while being towed home I can't recall any front tire tracking issues while making a turn. I was connected with a standard mil tow-bar. The front tires on my M37 seemed to track ok from what I can remember. But I suppose a quick test-tow around the block again using LiqTenExp's duece would probably be a good idea.
Ed
P.S. Now that I recall that incident, I think I remember the bishop walking over to my M37 that time in the parade and giving my vehicle his blessing. But unfortunately it didn't help. It still wouldn't start.
 
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CGarbee

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Raleigh, NC
I've towed many a M37 behind a M35A2C and a XM813... for long distances (GA to NC, NC to MD, etc...)
Never have had any issues with them following the larger truck, or with the steering misbehaving. Just pull the driveshafts, hook up the towbar, slap the tow lights on, and go.

A duece will know that the little truck is there, a five ton really doesn't... :)

The thing is that niether the duece nor the five ton can turn tight enough to get the steering on the M37 to flop over far enough to keep it from comming back. I have had this problem when flat towing a M37 behind a Dodge one ton dually...

I have never tied off the steering wheel (with bungee cords or anything else...).
 
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BigEddieM37

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If I go ahead and tow the M37 with the M35 and I choose NOT to pull any driveshafts, do I run much risk of any damage to the M37 if we keep the speed at 40/45 MPH max on local roads? (no highways) I'll admit that I'm not familiar with the procedure of pulling driveshafts on my M37.
 

CGarbee

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Raleigh, NC
If I go ahead and tow the M37 with the M35 and I choose NOT to pull any driveshafts, do I run much risk of any damage to the M37 if we keep the speed at 40/45 MPH max on local roads? (no highways) I'll admit that I'm not familiar with the procedure of pulling driveshafts on my M37.
How far are you going? I've pulled them accross town without pulling the driveshafts without any problems, and (I will admit it) a couple of times have towed one accross the state (240 miles) without pulling them. In the case of the cross town drive, I knew that everything was in really top notch shape and I never got the duece above third gear (traffic...). In the case of the cross state drive, I couldn't get the bolts loose, knew that the driveline was going to get rebuilt anyway, etc...

Do make sure that the lube levels are all correct and put everthing in neutral...

Also, on that cross town drive, I did manage to pop over a curve and had the M37 go back into gear... I went about a block before I was able to pull over and correct that issue...

Pulling the driveshaft (all you really have to do is the diff ends and then tie them up very securely) only entails removing four bolts that connect the flanges (9/16 and/or 5/8 wrenches needed depending on the hardware).
 
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CGarbee

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Raleigh, NC
Never even thought of haulling one of my M37's in the back of the duece or five ton. Way too easy for me to slap the towbar on, drop a driveshaft, and ensure that the front manual hubs are unlocked...especially when compared to loading and securing a truck in the bed of the other truck (I have ramps that can handle a jeep in the back of the larger truck, but they are not rated for a M37...).

It would be tight though (especially with a winch model), and the M37 is also a tad tall (drop windshield (remove hard top depending), remove cargo bows, remove/secure radio antenna, etc.)
 

Capt.Marion

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Atlanta, GA
The M37 is about 15 feet long while the deuce bed is only 12 feet long. The width isn't a problem, M37 at 6 feet and the deuce bed at about 7.5.
 
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emr

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never never ty up the steering wheel, lube the front end max air the front tires and go, they have been tow barred by uncle sam for a milion miles, and it is fine, it is total driver error if there is a problem, i have tow barred my M38 for over a thousand miles, and deuce to deuce for that also, the M37 Ed is talking about is one SWEET ride, we tow barred him just fine all the way thru the city streets and thru his down town roads, not even a hint of a problem, sorry about the driver error quote, but that would be the case if it is not working, never never never ty up a steering wheel.....U must start out straight on hard pack in all vehicles untill U get practice, and steer wide u ntill u learn what U and then your truck can do, good luck and do it, just do it in a mall parking lot first way before the show, Look foward to seeing You there, there is plenty of room to park and unhook, we LOVE M37s at the NJ show.....:jumpin:....:grd:
 

Barrman

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I flat towed my M715 behind the M35A2 last spring to a show 100 miles away. I will never do it again. I had the cargo cover on the Whistler and couldn't see the M715. Only shadows on one side, so I had to swerve every now and then just to make sure all the tires still had air in them and such. The M37 is smaller and probably harder to see if that is possible. I will trailer from now on.

Plus, as I was going along. I started thinking about my hard to find and expensive Michelin tires on the M715. Why wear them out, chance a cut or flat when trailer tires are cheap and easy to find compared to the XZL's. Plus, I can back up the trailer and lights are bolted on compared to tied on.

Just my thoughts based on my experience. Do what you feel right with.
 

armytruck63

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Redlands, CA
I agree with Barrman. A friend of mine wore out the steering compnents of his M38A1 flat towing it behind his 5-ton. God only knows what was going on back there.
 
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