Truck bought for parts, got it running, but…

[T9000]

Ok, so like many here I ended up buying a 2008 REV M1151A1 with 8k miles, initially for parts, but after picking it up, found that it had an IROAN in 2012 and it shows that the air filter was last replaced in 2020 at around 5k miles.
The good news is that I was able to get it started and after changing the oil the engine sounds very buttery, the transmission and steering seem to work very well.
Now the bad news
1. There is some blow-by, it did get reduced a lot after the oil change (I use Shell T6 15W40 synthetic) and after adding the CDR valve), but still visible and it would push the oil fill cap about 1/4” up if I put it upside down.
There is also a little oil in the air filter that looks like it came from the original blow-by.

2. There is exhaust escaping mainly at startup where it connects by the turbo, circled in red in the picture below:



I presume this is an easy fix by tightening the two bolts, which attach the exhaust pipe?

3. Oil leaks at turbo and what appears to be at the valves cover on driver side? I am planning to clean the engine to see exactly where it’s coming from:



How bad is it?
Where should I start?

 

[T9000]

Oil pressure looks good and one interesting thing is that it doesn’t do the glow-plugs pulsing that my 1165A1 does, even as they were both built around the same time:



EDIT: The alternator is working and the batteries are being charged.

 

[springer1981]

... one interesting thing is that it doesn’t do the glow-plugs pulsing that my 1165A1 does, even as they were both built around the same time:

Different start boxes. The Smart Start doesn't pulse like the older EESS.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Thats a rebuilt engine, they can be a bit of leakers, pressure wash the engine and get it all cleaned up.
Turbo snow man seal is easy to replace..the exhaust down pipe is loose, needs to be tightened up At the turbo

 

[T9000]

Thats a rebuilt engine, they can be a bit of leakers, pressure wash the engine and get it all cleaned up.
Turbo snow man seal is easy to replace..the exhaust down pipe is loose, needs to be tightened up At the turbo

Thank you! I feel more optimistic now
I will pressure wash the engine and report back.
Still don’t feel good about the blow-by, will do a video, not sure if it’s too much.

 

[T9000]

Thats a rebuilt engine, they can be a bit of leakers, pressure wash the engine and get it all cleaned up.
Turbo snow man seal is easy to replace..the exhaust down pipe is loose, needs to be tightened up At the turbo

How can you tell that it was rebuilt? From the RTV on valves seal cover?

 

[GopherHill]

Thank you! I feel more optimistic now
I will pressure wash the engine and report back.
Still don’t feel good about the blow-by, will do a video, not sure if it’s too much.

I wouldn't be too worried about the blow by.
After driving it for a time, the rings will get settled in. Blow by should mostly go away after a few hundred miles.

 

[T9000]

Thats a rebuilt engine, they can be a bit of leakers, pressure wash the engine and get it all cleaned up.
Turbo snow man seal is easy to replace..the exhaust down pipe is loose, needs to be tightened up At the turbo

Sorry, which one is the Turbo main seal, I only found this turbo diagram in the engine manual and it shows only one O ring, item #2:



Is there another manual with expanded view of the turbo internal components?

 

[Mogman]

#8 looks like a snow man.

 

[T9000]

#8 looks like a snow man.

Thank you! I am not familiar with the terminology, thought “snow man” was a typo after I googled it and didn’t find anything
Got it!

 

[Mogman]

Did you replace the CDR valve with a fording type? if so are you sure it is installed correctly?
The fording valve when switch into fording mode would necessarily create more blow-by as it tries to build crankcase/vent system pressure.

 

[86humv]

How can you tell that it was rebuilt? From the RTV on valves seal cover?

Motor is painted all black.

 

[T9000]

Did you replace the CDR valve with a fording type? if so are you sure it is installed correctly?
The fording valve when switch into fording mode would necessarily create more blow-by as it tries to build crankcase/vent system pressure.

Wow!!! That’s amazing troubleshooting!
Yes, I did use a DWF CDR valve, only because that’s what I had laying around, and didn’t even think about it until now that you mentioned it.
But, when I open the oil fill tube to check the blow-by , isn’t the CDR being taken out of the circuit as the pressure exits via the so called the path of least resistance, without even making it to the CDR?

 

[T9000]

Motor is painted all black.

Aha! I was actually wondering why the engine is black and now I know, thank you!

EDIT: I thought it was all covered in oil

 

[T9000]

I wouldn't be too worried about the blow by.
After driving it for a time, the rings will get settled in. Blow by should mostly go away after a few hundred miles.

Actually, there are only about 100 hours on the Tachometer, maybe it got replaced and that’s all the engine had after the re-build?

 

[Mogman]

Wow!!! That’s amazing troubleshooting!
Yes, I did use a DWF CDR valve, only because that’s what I had laying around, and didn’t even think about it until now that you mentioned it.
But, when I open the oil fill tube to check the blow-by , isn’t the CDR being taken out of the circuit as the pressure exits via the so called the path of least resistance, without even making it to the CDR?

With the CDR valve in "normal" it pulls a slight vacuum on the crankcase to pull the internal blow-by into the intake to burn the fumes.

 

[Mogman]

I would just clean it up and run it for awhile before tearing into the "leaks" some could be caused by too much crankcase pressure.

 

[T9000]

With the CDR valve in "normal" it pulls a slight vacuum on the crankcase to pull the internal blow-by into the intake to burn the fumes.

Ok, I will replace it with a regular one. I plugged that in just to see if the blow-by improved and I didn’t connect the vent lines.




I was thinking that if the oil fill cap is open the CDR valve does’t have any effect as the blow-by would exit there without making it down the intake/ CDR valve tube, but maybe it builds it up snd is not something instant?

I think you can tell that I am a little obsessed with this blow-by

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

There is always crank case pressure at the fording selector valve…it just directed to wet components when you dial it to Ford position

 

[T9000]

I would just clean it up and run it for awhile before tearing into the "leaks" some could be caused by too much crankcase pressure.

You read my mind, when I saw the leaks and the whole engine being black, I thought the pressure blew most of the seals and everything black is oil.