Ultimate well nut repair

[uniquify]

Can anyone tell me why my 8 keeps changing into a happy face when I post my reply? Can't seem to edit it out either.

The combination of 8 and ) becomes when there is no space or other character inbetween them. If you put a space between them, it works ok. 8 )

 

[Triton]

When I installed mine I used a socket wrench over the nut on the outside and held the well nut body on the inside of the tank with my fingers, if everything is dry you can get it to tighten down like Dieselmister said i post #80

 

[Hard Head]

Well I went ahead and purchased some and I wish I had done this to mine years ago. I only had one set (with 6 hours) that has a crack in the top well nut. I believe the cause was from over torquing. I had to cut it out. I just went ahead and replaced both. It is probably the most thankless thing we can do for a new owner since they will not have to experience leaking wellnuts. My farewell present to my sets on auction at the end of the month. I don't know about you guys, but I cannot afford to buy them and repair them anymore since they cost more at auction than I can sell them for in perfect running order. I think it is now time to just get out of the MEP business! That is why I am selling off my remaining inventory and moving on to the next thing for sale in the price is right game. I am glad that you guys came up with this fix! Many minds working together to make our problems go away! Thanks!

 

[Light in the Dark]

I am in the same boat, HH. I am getting out of the resale side. The numbers don't work anymore. I have a few sets still to go (have a SS member coming out tomorrow to grab a 5k actually). I do have plans to help out those that will continue to do this, as well as fresh owners in need of select items. In due time.

 

[Hard Head]

I have lost my time and labor just fooling with them over the years since you can buy cheaper commercial units that supply more power for average home owners. I should have field stripped everyone I had and sold them piece by piece. More money in the parts business!

 

[Light in the Dark]

I have lost my time and labor just fooling with them over the years since you can buy cheaper commercial units that supply more power for average home owners. I should have field stripped everyone I had and sold them piece by piece. More money in the parts business!

Well when beat up parts-only machines are pulling over $3k before premium, tax, and freight... yeah.

 

[mavucci]

Just ordered the brass fittings for the ultimate wellnut repair. I drained as much of the tank thru the drain. How is everyone cleaning out the inside of the tank when they have the well but out? Just wiping it down with a rag? Shop vac? Hiding it out with water and drying it? I also drained the radiator and flushed that out real well. I couldn’t believe how much crud was in there.

 

[csheath]

Searched for these using the MFG number listed in the OPs link and found them listed at the same vendor without their prefix. Ordered two over the phone as suggested and just received a tracking number. http://www.plastic-mart.com/product/1040/1-4-brass-bulkhead-fitting-10897

Mine are not leaking that I know of but I thought I should go ahead and have them on hand. Probably won't install unless mine spring a leak. The older I get the more I settle into the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" club.

 

[robson1015]

Searched for these using the MFG number listed in the OPs link and found them listed at the same vendor without their prefix. Ordered two over the phone as suggested and just received a tracking number. http://www.plastic-mart.com/product/1040/1-4-brass-bulkhead-fitting-10897

Mine are not leaking that I know of but I thought I should go ahead and have them on hand. Probably won't install unless mine spring a leak. The older I get the more I settle into the "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" club.

I have done the same....well nuts, thermostat, new belt all on standby. It's good to be prepared when the inevitable happens...

 

[Farmitall]

I have done the same....well nuts, thermostat, new belt all on standby. It's good to be prepared when the inevitable happens...

Dont forget hoses, filters and liquids. A spare starter is also a good thing to have on hand as well. The set is useless if you can't crank it up. I've got two MEP-803a sets and also keep one spare alternator.

This reminds me, I've got to check my experiment of the two different well nuts sitting in the mason jars of fuel outside to see if there is any deterioration in either one.

 

[Light in the Dark]

If you have multiple MEPs, wouldn't hurt to have a slave cable in your stock too.

 

[Farmitall]

If you have multiple MEPs, wouldn't hurt to have a slave cable in your stock too.

That is also in the plans, but for now I'll use a set of jumper cables connected at the correct points.

 

[CallMeColt]

I wish I found this thread before replacing mine with the regular rubber one. Oh well, next time.

 

[Light in the Dark]

FINALLY got around to doing my machine... what a slacker (taking care of the front oil seal, replacing the fuel float, replacing return fuel lines (as I did the main lines last Spring, etc). Got the nut in with a piece of coax snaked through to pull tension on the nut, and thats all good to go. Now I realize I never got the MPT to AN adapter! I just reread the thread, and didn't see anyone offer up a good source for this fitting. Any thoughts?

Edit: Well looks like the stock assembly is taken apart, and you can use that. Knew I was out of Loctite weeks ago... lot of good that does me now. ​

 

[NormB]

File under: You pays your money and you takes your chances.

Can't find my post on this topic from many months ago, but I'd bought TWO of these from Green Mountain Generators as spares (the update had already been done on my 802a, including the dremel cutout on the frame, but you never know) and was curious about whether they'd hold up to Diesel (#2, ULSD, stuff from local pump, what I use in the HMMWV and TQGs). Several other people mentioned problems with buying what they thought were diesel-proof wellnuts, soaking one in fuel for results.

So I plunked one of the two I had into a jar of Diesel fuel and let it sit for at least 6-8 months, maybe longer.

Here's the result:



Take it for what it's worth, maybe nothing, but the numbers are different on the different wellnuts. I only noticed this today (while I had my reading glasses on).

Now, while swelling may or may not be a sign of breakdown, I SWEAR the fuel I poured into the jar was a LOT closer to clear - or at least a helle Lager Bier) and not imminent signs of kidney failure, or dunkel.

Does ANYONE have a source for honest-to-goodness N-BUNA rubber wellnuts that won't swell, leak, degenerate under exposure to diesel fuel?

Thanks.

Norm

 

[Light in the Dark]

I dont know if you are going to find one. Besides... the bulkhead fitting upgrade is a one shot, one kill permanent upgrade. The tank does NOT have to come out of the machine either to do the swap. No longer is there worry about degradation and fuel spilling out (or someone kicking the stem and making the fitting pop out).

 

[Light in the Dark]

And for anyone that does want to run the stock units, its a Pop Avdel 3ZLV3: https://www.grainger.com/product/3ZLV3

Cheaper than GMG I am sure.

 

[NormB]

And for anyone that does want to run the stock units, its a Pop Avdel 3ZLV3: https://www.grainger.com/product/3ZLV3
Cheaper than GMG I am sure.

Chloroprene. From Wikipedia: Neoprene (also polychloroprene or pc-rubber) is a family of synthetic rubbers that are produced by polymerization of chloroprene

ALSO from Wikipedia: Nitrile rubber, also known as NBR, Buna-N, and acrylonitrile butadiene rubber, is a synthetic rubber copolymer of acrylonitrile (ACN) and butadiene. Trade names include Perbunan, Nipol, Krynac and Europrene.Nitrile butadiene rubber (NBR) is a family of unsaturated copolymers of 2-propenenitrile and various butadiene monomers (1,2-butadiene and 1,3-butadiene). Although its physical and chemical properties vary depending on the polymer’s composition of nitrile, this form of synthetic rubber is unusual in being generally resistant to oil, fuel, and other chemicals (the more nitrile within the polymer, the higher the resistance to oils but the lower the flexibility of the material).

From elsewhere on the web, neoprene (and EPDM) are intolerant of diesel oil/fuel exposure (one source from Australia says it's "good"), while nitrile resists it best.

This is the problem, the a3816 wellnut designation ONLY refers to the SIZE of the nut (3/8-16 threaded insert), and says nothing about the actual material surrounding it.

From my short-term experiment, it's obvious the wellnuts sold by GMG (and by many others, apparently) are neoprene and, depending how long one keeps the genset, what additives are in the fuel, plus run time/vibration/heat/cold, they'll be prone to breakdown and leakage again. How soon is anybody's guess.

If this has been beaten to death and a REAL solution (ie. - N-Buna/nitrile rubber 3816 wellnut) is out there, please advise.

Thanks.

NB

 

[Light in the Dark]

I do understand the material difference between what I linked to, and Buna-N. I have not found a nitrile well nut in my travels. Even Parker doesn't do one: https://www.parker.com/literature/ISS5809.pdf

 

[DieselAddict]

The cut sheet for Parker does indicate that other materials are available upon request. I'm sure the minimum order will be staggering.

I'm going the bulkhead fitting route when I next have to deal with these things.