Valence's 1968 M101A1

[Valence]

Valence's 1968 M101A1 Trailer

On Saturday, February 25th, 2017 I drove to Nephi, UT and purchased this 1968 M101A1. No manufacturer was listed on the data plates (body or frame). It's very complete with side boards, bows, corners, and split swinging rear gates, and even the original front rack which was replaced with fiberglass . However, its missing some pins for the racks, and all the wood is rotted with a couple of the metal pieces bent, but not beyond usable/salvageable.

There's a little rust and moss growing, but not bad! The original owners said they bought it at auction in Kentucky in 2008 and pulled it fully loaded to Utah last November. I'm surprised the passenger tire survived, it was in sorry shape but I decided to pull it anyway (I had a spare 9.00-16 in the truck bed that was from my 1960 Pioneer Tool Trailer)

I didn't have any problems with the trailer in the 105 mile return trip.

Even under emergency braking and maneuvering at 60-70 MPH on I-15.

The story is: Some aggressive driver on my way back home caused an accident right in front of me. They passed me earlier in big hurry. I'm not sure what happened, but I assume they changed lanes quickly, but caught a car on rear of their truck and then was sideways in front of me at 70 MPH, smoke and debris flying. Then the truck was facing mine, straddling a lane divider. Looking back, I wonder what my reaction time was? Probably slow. I stood on my brakes, squealing my tires the whole way. (I'm glad whoever was behind me had enough space and didn't hit me). Still, I could tell I wasn't going to stop in time but the thought came to me "You can still steer". I glanced at the next lane and blessedly it was clear and I was able to use part of it to avoid him. I could smell my brakes and tires after that. The good news is the M101 and raised pintle hitch handled great, though the weight of the trailer surely did increase my stopping distance. I think electric brakes on this M101A1 (especially when loaded) might be the way to go. And a dash camera (for all vehicles).



I thought it was interesting on the data plate that the Model was stamped backwards as "1A101M".

 

[Valence]

These pins and a non-matching clip came with the trailer, and were buried under snow and ice. I don't know where the clip goes, but if I had to guess, the pins are not original. 2.75" long x 0.50" in diameter, they do appear to fit the front fiberglass rack (where I have the zip-ties and wire as shown above in the first post), and the rear rack gates.



And here's a couple pics of how it looked when I picked it up - all snowed on. Fortunately, the added front jack is only clamped on and not welded like my pioneer tool trailer. And the civilian trailer plug is just wired into the military lights so, obviously, that'll have to change (or the bulbs or go LED).

 

[m715mike]

That sounds like an eventful recovery trip. I'm glad you made it home safely!

 

[red]

That sounds like an eventful recovery trip. I'm glad you made it home safely!

He forgot that he was driving in Utah, where people will come to a complete stop on the interstate because they need to change lanes (no exaggeration on that part) or spin off the road in their 4wd's while this crazy ginger is puttin along those snowy roads in a 2wd and no problems.

If this trailer will only be towed by the pickup might as well just go with 12v on the lights.

 

[juanprado]

You can get the pins at mcmaster carr. Early ones had flat heads and the later ones were rounded.

 

[Valence]

If this trailer will only be towed by the pickup might as well just go with 12v on the lights.

Good point. An easy solution.

But I know me, and I'll always want the option to tow it with the deuce... which can be done later.

 

[Valence]

To use this this trailer on vehicles with a receiver hitch (vs a pintle directly mounted, closer, to the vehicle) it will also need longer safety chains. The way I see it, I have basically two options:

1. Cut a link out and add in additional links to lengthen the existing chain
2. Cut off the chain and hook entirely (I'd probably reuse the mount on the frame though) and install new chains with a latching hook, like below:

http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Flatb.../3-8-Clevis-Slip-Hook-w-Safety-Latch-Grade-70

 

[Mainsail]

View attachment 668479 View attachment 668478

To use this this trailer on vehicles with a receiver hitch (vs a pintle directly mounted, closer, to the vehicle) it will also need longer safety chains. The way I see it, I have basically two options:

1. Cut a link out and add in additional links to lengthen the existing chain
2. Cut off the chain and hook entirely (I'd probably reuse the mount on the frame though) and install new chains with a latching hook, like below:

View attachment 668480
http://www.uscargocontrol.com/Flatb.../3-8-Clevis-Slip-Hook-w-Safety-Latch-Grade-70

I picked up a couple of these at home depot. Easier.

 

[juanprado]

I picked up a couple of these at home depot. Easier.

The universal link is what i use and supply to my customers. They are 3000lb each and the original hook slides into them perfectly with the other end in the receiver OE hole. Usually just the right length.

 

[Valence]

The universal link is what i use and supply to my customers. They are 3000lb each and the original hook slides into them perfectly with the other end in the receiver OE hole. Usually just the right length.

It took me a bit, but I see what you mean now. I hadn't considered putting the "extension" on the truck's safety chain hooks/loops. No modifying necessary of the trailer's original chains. I like that, thanks!

CURT 82932 1/2 In Threaded Link 3300Lb Capacity
https://www.amazon.com/CURT-82932-Threaded-3300Lb-Capacity/dp/B001EOV3DO/


To be fair, in the past whenever I went to try an open threaded quick links like pictured above, they were always rusted closed and required a lot of work to get moving again.

 

[Mainsail]

To be fair, in the past whenever I went to try an open threaded quick links like pictured above, they were always rusted closed and required a lot of work to get moving again.

I never screw anything together anymore unless the threads are coated with antiseize compound first. It makes life a lot easier later on.

 

[McGuyver]

This is how I solved the safety chain problem:

I bought them from McMaster-Carr. Don't remember how much weight they are rated for, but it was more than enough.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[bigbe5678]

Nice work Good job

 

[juanprado]

This is how I solved the safety chain problem:

I bought them from McMaster-Carr. Don't remember how much weight they are rated for, but it was more than enough.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

Safety chains have to be mounted to frame and/or bumper. They need to go to a 2nd point not the reciever . If your pins shears etc, then there is no back up to prevent catastrophic failure.

 

[McGuyver]

Safety chains have to be mounted to frame and/or bumper. They need to go to a 2nd point not the reciever . If your pins shears etc, then there is no back up to prevent catastrophic failure.

I know, but I don't think that pin is ever going to shear with the kind of towing I do with this trailer. It's certainly no worse than the temp setup shown in post #7.

Sent from my SM-G920V using Tapatalk

 

[M813rc]

Nice trailer, glad you got it home safely.

....I wonder what my reaction time was? Probably slow.....

As an old collision reconstructionist, I can't help but start calculating this stuff, so bear with me...

An average perception/reaction time for a physically fit and alert driver is approximately 1.5 seconds. That's the time from you going "Vat der hey!!?" to actually getting your foot to the brake pedal. Extend that if you are tired, or just toodling along thinking about the world.

At 70mph, during the "Vat der.." phase, you are going to travel approximately 154 feet. Add around half a second for the brakes to fully start doing their thing, and you are going to have gone approximately 206 feet before you start braking fully.

From there, your stopping distance will be determined by the road surface (coefficient of friction, or more simply, drag factor), slope, contaminants like oil/water/whatever, brake/tire condition, etc. etc..., and hopefully not shortened by hitting anything solid!

You proved that you have enough truck to handle that trailer unbraked, but I often think of these things when people say stuff like "I can get my M105 up to 70 mph behind my Honda Civic with no problem", and "I'll just plan my stops..".

Cheers

 

[M813rc]

Safety chains have to be mounted to frame and/or bumper.

Juanprado has a good point, check your state (and federal) laws on this. In Texas, having the hooks attached to the removable part of the receiver hitch will net you a hefty fine from a State Trooper who notices it.

Cheers

 

[Valence]

Nice trailer, glad you got it home safely.



As an old collision reconstructionist, I can't help but start calculating this stuff, so bear with me...

An average perception/reaction time for a physically fit and alert driver is approximately 1.5 seconds. That's the time from you going "Vat der hey!!?" to actually getting your foot to the brake pedal. Extend that if you are tired, or just toodling along thinking about the world.

At 70mph, during the "Vat der.." phase, you are going to travel approximately 154 feet. Add around half a second for the brakes to fully start doing their thing, and you are going to have gone approximately 206 feet before you start braking fully.

From there, your stopping distance will be determined by the road surface (coefficient of friction, or more simply, drag factor), slope, contaminants like oil/water/whatever, brake/tire condition, etc. etc..., and hopefully not shortened by hitting anything solid!

You proved that you have enough truck to handle that trailer unbraked, but I often think of these things when people say stuff like "I can get my M105 up to 70 mph behind my Honda Civic with no problem", and "I'll just plan my stops..".

Cheers

Thanks! Also, that is really interesting information there. Here's some more info for you:

The road was a dry interstate, about 30 degrees F ambient temperature, I believe they do concrete around here and cut ribs into it. I have excellent tires except all 4 were actually under filled and needed 25% more air (due to me not checking tire pressure before the trip). I was closer to the alert driver, but if I didn't have enough room to stop... then I must have been following too close (even though the sudden collision occurred a few vehicles in front of me).

It is good to know that the trailer definitely did not push the rear end of the truck around. During full braking both truck and trailer stayed in the lane and I certainly was not fighting either. I have my reservations that I could say the same if an additional 1000-1500 lbs were in the trailer, hence the desire to change the axle for electric brakes since I've never seen an A2 model for sale around here.

I know, but I don't think that pin is ever going to shear with the kind of towing I do with this trailer. It's certainly no worse than the temp setup shown in post #7.

My safety chain setup in post #7 was only temporary to get it home, and because I was too dense to think of adding the quick links on the hook end vs in the middle of the chain. (I had stopped at a hardware store to buy the wire to wrap around the chains to ensure I didn't drag one on the road).

 

[Tinstar]

That setup will get you a ticket in all states when it's noticed. And that trailer will draw attention.
As mentioned, the chains need to be mounted to frame, etc for it to be legal.
That's Federal DOT standard.

Edit:
Just read your above post.
Glad to hear you will be doing chains properly.
Most LEOs will look to make sure it's correct, including crossing the safety chains as required.


I have dash cameras installed in every vehicle I own. MVs included.
Civilian ones have the dual camera setup. One camera facing forward, the other facing rearward.
Gives me piece of mind and an insurance break.

 

[M813rc]

.....but if I didn't have enough room to stop... then I must have been following too close.....

Valuable lesson learned, but not the hard way. It is difficult to keep a good following distance in any denser traffic, and the crazies jumping in and changing the equation don't help.
Inflating your tires helps with braking. Grooved concrete has a pretty good (as in high) coefficient of friction.

And you would be right.
On a flat surface, a vehicle's braking is distributed roughly 60% front, 40% rear (assuming front engine vehicle). When you brake hard, the nose of your vehicle dips, transferring more weight to the front, and giving even less braking power to the rear axle.
Now imagine an additional unbraked trailer-plus-1500# pushing against your trailer hitch, pushing the tail end even higher, thus further reducing the load on the rear axle, further decreasing it's braking power....
It isn't going to take much for that rear axle, ABS or not, to break loose from traction, at which point the rear end is going to try to pass the heavily braking front end. With all that trailer pushing it....

But all is good, and you didn't say "If I had it to do all over again, I'd do the same thing".

Cheers