What did you do to your deuce this week?

[Hitman]

Put in a Transfer case that i got from 91W350. took me fri and sat to do it by my self sorry no pic's. if you need parts he's the man.
[h=1][/h]

 

[Tracer]

Found a bed, bows,vinyl top, all the mud flaps and mounts, spare tire mount, pioneer tool rack and mounting brackets as well as two sets of troop seats at a great price. If you are near South East Oklahoma and need a bed let me know, he has a couple of more!View attachment 636179View attachment 636180View attachment 636181

Does he have any drop side beds?

 

[rumplecat]

No drop sides!

 

[Davis Welding]

Well, It's not much of a deuce any more!! 1947 Plymouth P15 sedan body. When finished, it will have at least have air ride and AC!

!

 

[tobyS]

Well, It's not much of a deuce any more!! 1947 Plymouth P15 sedan body. When finished, it will have at least have air ride and AC!

!View attachment 636414 View attachment 636415

Wow...toooooo cool!

 

[Another Ahab]

Well, It's not much of a deuce any more!! 1947 Plymouth P15 sedan body. When finished, it will have at least have air ride and AC!

! View attachment 636415

Please: you GOT to keep us posted of the progress.

 

[Kaiser67M715]

dual steer? or just the front?

 

[Digger09]

Well, It's not much of a deuce any more!! 1947 Plymouth P15 sedan body. When finished, it will have at least have air ride and AC!

!View attachment 636414 View attachment 636415

Thats is super cool! Keep the pics coming!

 

[Valence]

Yesterday I finished the axle service (repack bearings, replace the oil seal, and reseal exterior hub cover) on my M105A2 trailer. It was hot, greasy, dirty, and sweaty. These pictures are actually from the passenger side that I did a couple weeks ago, but, same thing (obviously) for the driver's side. I'm glad I purchased two replacement lock washers as the keyway tab on the left side was chewed up and loose from flopping around as none of the tabs were bent down as they should have been (the right side lock washer's keyway tab was missing all-together). I was happy to even get replacement lock washers, they were hard to find! See this thread:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?151593-M105-axle-spindle-size

Also, the last person/unit to service my trailer obviously didn't have the correct sized bearing nut socket. They did a number to the nuts, but they still fit and work. I did have to take a punch to one and flatten a chewed up center spot so the socket would fit on though.


Yes, I also used a wire wheel to clean up the light surface rust on the NOS lock washers, just because.


The Technical Manual lies about the brake adjustment - at least for the age of my trailer. I played it by ear (literally) and spinning of the tire as best I could.

I still need to take it for a test pull to make sure the bearing pre-load and brakes are adjusted properly and don't overheat.


-----
I also checked the fluid level in my deuce's 3 differentials to make sure I didn't over fill them last year. A bunch of gear oil came out of the front differential, and I used a hose and turkey baster to suck out a bit more until it was at the proper level. I'm not sure how I could have over filled it so much and still get the cap back on? Maybe the front spring perch caster adjustment from last fall had something to do with it? Well, anyway, it's better now.

I also checked the transmission fluid level because it's leaking out the front by the clutch and seeping from somewhere up top down the backside. (the PTO has always leaked). Though the fluid level is at least 1/2" - 3/4" down from the fill plug. The tip of my left index finger can just reach it at "one knuckle". So this seems about the correct level to me (unless I'm wrong?). The breather cap isn't plugged as I rerouted that too last year to the firewall.

 

[backwoodsman1]

Didnt do anything this week except except raise hood and check fluids and start her. No oil pressure. Jumped out, ran to front, climbed on, opened oil cap again and saw oil squirting as it should. THAT was a load off my mind. New sending unit is on the list. Engines run on fuel(s). Motors run on smoke.

 

[rustystud]

I decided to install some LED lights I had bought awhile ago. I put them so I could work on the truck at night and have them move out of the way when not in use. The reason I put the ones on the side of the box was in case I needed to replace a tire at night. This way I could see what I'm doing. The rear mounted ones are for working on the trailer. I might install some on the cab roof or maybe the front bumper.
I used a plastic washer between the bracket and mount so they would swivel easily yet stay where I put them.

 

[The Stig]

Finally installed my cargo cover after fixing a deformed troop seat upright. loaded up my G177's for install first thing this morning. Had to cheat a little to be able to lift them back into the truck. Man what I wouldn't give for a Soldier B or a strong friend that lives close by with lots of free time. HA

 

[gimpyrobb]

Nice Rusty, I put lights in the side of the bed in a similar fashion. They are very handy at night! At first I didn't like the lights in the bumperets, but the practicality is growing on me.

 

[srodocker]

Preparing to install a pair of Monroe 34787 shocks on the front of the Deuce. I have been told this will give me some more front tire life. Then a Monroe 66104 shock for my drivers front seat. And then were off for a trip to Pleasanton CA and the MVPA Convention.

Let me know how the shocks work out. Before I buy 3 new shocks want to know if its worth it.

 

[brianp454]

When I got my truck it was doing a little cupping on the front tires. I pulled one of the shock mounts and found them to be very difficult to move, so I called them good. I found the toe to be in about 1/16-1/8 if memory serves. I gave it a bit more toe-in and haven't noticed any issue since. Good luck with the shocks and hope to hear what you thought of them.

Let me know how the shocks work out. Before I buy 3 new shocks want to know if its worth it.

 

[Another Ahab]

When I got my truck it was doing a little cupping on the front tires. I pulled one of the shock mounts and found them to be very difficult to move, so I called them good. I found the toe to be in about 1/16-1/8 if memory serves. I gave it a bit more toe-in and haven't noticed any issue since. Good luck with the shocks and hope to hear what you thought of them.

That's kind of funny (maybe):

- Are you saying it's too difficult to mess with, so you're just going to figure that they're OK?

or

- Are you saying that because they aren't moving readily you figure that they're not the problem?

 

[Valence]

When I got my truck it was doing a little cupping on the front tires. I pulled one of the shock mounts and found them to be very difficult to move, so I called them good. I found the toe to be in about 1/16-1/8 if memory serves. I gave it a bit more toe-in and haven't noticed any issue since. Good luck with the shocks and hope to hear what you thought of them.

Personally, even if the original oil shocks are "good" (ie: not leaking), I'd advocate for replacing them. It's old technology and they will lose over 30% of their shock absorption because the oil "foams" during use. Modern shocks are much better, and a drop-in replacements are readily available. Better shock absorption, better job at keeping the tire on the road equals better ride, better steering, better braking, better tire life.

 

[brianp454]

Sorry, I did not think of the reader when I wrote that. I assumed everyone had been through some training. Ooops! When I took mechanics (chassis semester) we were taught to disconnect one end of a shock or strut and test how much force it takes to move it in each direction. We'd compare new and used shocks of different wear levels. If they are really worn to the point they no longer act as a damper as designed, they should be replaced. Of course, you have to compare like shocks. For example, a 50/50 used vs a 50/50 new replacement. A 90/10 shock should have some delay in reaching full extension also. Signs of leaking or wear such as slop when they are grabbed in the middle and forced about, etc. are grounds for replacement. Of course, you can do a bounce test by jumping on bumpers or doing something to simulate bumps, use a large prybar to cause the suspension to move etc. without taking it out of the vehicle. Or it can be checked by completely removing it. I recall we did this sort of thing in class until we could use any method to get the correct decision (replace or not). If you look on the web there's some decent info: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbnuW3BdkEI

That's kind of funny (maybe):

- Are you saying it's too difficult to mess with, so you're just going to figure that they're OK?

or

- Are you saying that because they aren't moving readily you figure that they're not the problem?

 

[Another Ahab]

Personally, even if the original oil shocks are "good" (ie: not leaking), I'd advocate for replacing them. It's old technology and they will lose over 30% of their shock absorption because the oil "foams" during use. Modern shocks are much better, and a drop-in replacements are readily available. Better shock absorption, better job at keeping the tire on the road equals better ride, better steering, better braking, better tire life.

 

[Tracer]

Let me know how the shocks work out. Before I buy 3 new shocks want to know if its worth it.

The Monroe gas shocks showed up about 30 minutes ago. I changed the tires this morning so unless I run into some unscheduled Honey Do's tomorrow, I should be able to get the new shocks installed before it gets hot out. I replaced my drivers seat shock about a year ago with one from Those Military Guys. It's like this shock has double dampening, the shock is stiff both ways even with my seat cranked all the way down. I weigh about 217lbs, but I would probably need to be about 240/250lbs before the seat would be comfortable. So next I'll try the Monroe 66104 for the drivers seat and see how it works. Better I hope. Keep ya posted