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What did you do to your deuce this week?

Eliteweapons

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Baltimore Maryland
2016-07-18_14.32.17.jpg2016-07-20 06.17.08.jpg

I added a Jones (Aero) Turbine resonated muffler to my A3. I welded flanges on the new muffler so I could keep it original if I wanted to reinstall the old one it would be an easy swap. I haven't put the guard back on in these pictures but it is much quieter and has a great tone to it.
 

tobyS

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IN
View attachment 634691View attachment 634692

I added a Jones (Aero) Turbine resonated muffler to my A3. I welded flanges on the new muffler so I could keep it original if I wanted to reinstall the old one it would be an easy swap. I haven't put the guard back on in these pictures but it is much quieter and has a great tone to it.
I have one where they took the muffler out and dropped the top pipe down. So I can imagine the sound. It's loud and I will be glad to get a muffler back on it. I take it you capped the small "self cleaning" pipe coming from the intake.

I use a spark arrester on my 931 so if I go into a woodlot/forest, I'm legal.

Eastern had 2 A3 OEM mufflers on ebay and I bought one...just need the mount and guard now...which I may be forced to fabricate.
 

Eliteweapons

Member
238
5
18
Location
Baltimore Maryland
I have one where they took the muffler out and dropped the top pipe down. So I can imagine the sound. It's loud and I will be glad to get a muffler back on it. I take it you capped the small "self cleaning" pipe coming from the intake.

I use a spark arrester on my 931 so if I go into a woodlot/forest, I'm legal.

Eastern had 2 A3 OEM mufflers on ebay and I bought one...just need the mount and guard now...which I may be forced to fabricate.
I made a temporary 1 1/2" vinyl cap for that self cleaning 90 until I can find something that fits and looks better. It is alot quieter now. I can have a conversation in the truck now without screaming. Of course the engine noise I can still hear, but I am going to use some Lizard Skin and other sound proofing to help reduce that next.
 

tobyS

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Location
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EW, I bought 2 A3's, one to (hopefully) keep and the other to fix up and resell. One of them had rubber mats in the cab, which I promptly took out, cleaned and set aside. They will go back in, but trimmed to be removable. One of my trucks has to have the tranny replaced, so taking the seats out made doing a floor re-hab timely.

I've never used Lizard Skin, but it sounds like bed-liner. I'm considering using bed liner after some more rust treatment with scraping and red primer.

If you don't have floor mats EW, the rubber mats one can get at a farm supply would seem to be a good choice. So would wide rubber belting. Rustystud had some good pictures of an adhesive backed rubber product he applied (he put a lot of effort into cut and fit) to the entire cab, but it left me wondering if water ever did get behind it, would it be trapped. That seems to be the problem of mats.

Post pictures when you can to keep the natives happy. I can't seem to get them from camera to SS.
 

rustystud

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Woodinville, Washington
EW, I bought 2 A3's, one to (hopefully) keep and the other to fix up and resell. One of them had rubber mats in the cab, which I promptly took out, cleaned and set aside. They will go back in, but trimmed to be removable. One of my trucks has to have the tranny replaced, so taking the seats out made doing a floor re-hab timely.

I've never used Lizard Skin, but it sounds like bed-liner. I'm considering using bed liner after some more rust treatment with scraping and red primer.

If you don't have floor mats EW, the rubber mats one can get at a farm supply would seem to be a good choice. So would wide rubber belting. Rustystud had some good pictures of an adhesive backed rubber product he applied (he put a lot of effort into cut and fit) to the entire cab, but it left me wondering if water ever did get behind it, would it be trapped. That seems to be the problem of mats.

Post pictures when you can to keep the natives happy. I can't seem to get them from camera to SS.
I used "DynaMat" and the butyl rubber will not allow any moisture underneath it. It has an Aluminum backing which is pretty tough. I plan on installing a rubber floor mat later but the DynaMat provides excellent noise reduction and prevents heat transfer. The only problem with DynaMat is the cost. To do the whole cab cost $600.00 . If your just trying to provide water and corrosion protection I would clean the floors removing all rust and use a good primer like Rustoleum . Then use "Herculiner" bed liner to coat the floor. I used this on my CUCV over 15 years ago and it still is working great !
 

whatadeuce

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Today I removed the M35 propeller shaft assembly between the transmission and the transfer case. The fasteners loosened up and the assembly got unfastened and jamed . 20160723_132328.jpgCleaned and GReased the u-joints for tghis assembly. The transfer case linkage is bent, and hose connection fitting on the transfer case os loose too. Shall make all repairs.
 

Another Ahab

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Location
Alexandria, VA
Test fit my shower pan and a/c unit. It was way to hot to do anything inside the box today! Also picked up a 32in tv to mount soon.
Hey, theeDIZ; I bet it was hot inside that box today:

- Is that shower pan made of fiberglass?

The wall thickness makes me wonder how it's strong enough to stand on without flexing. But I'm guessing it must be.
 
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brianp454

Member
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Location
Portland, OR
I installed the brake switch upgrade kit from Erik’s. Glad to have working brake lights again. Hope this switch lasts more than the one that was in the pressure line (a year or two is no good reliability).

Working around the master cylinder and air pack I find that stubby wrenches are a big help. So, I broke down and bought a set that will get painted to match the truck and added to the tool box in the truck.

I cleaned out the cab and glove box. My truck accumulates crap like empty water bottles, fishing lures, disposable coffee cups, surplus parts, etc. I pulled the seats and cleaned the cab with soap and water. Even pressure washed the engine compartment and got under the truck to get the massive amount of grit and dirt grime cleaned out of the frame rails. Perhaps this was from going over Mt Hood a while back when they had gravel all over with the ice… Also pressure washed a couple take-out scrapyard Bendix AD-9 air dryers as a part of the "adding an air dryer" project.

I pulled the transmission fill plug and checked out the chips on it. I’m a big believer in adding magnetic fill plugs so that you can pull them and check them periodically. This has a number of benefits if you like reliability. I’ll keep checking from time to time. If the level is just below the fill plug you can pull it without making any sort of mess.

160723 M35A2 Transmission Fill Plug Magnet Snip.JPG
 
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Another Ahab

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Alexandria, VA
I installed the brake switch upgrade kit from Erik’s. Glad to have working brake lights again. Hope this switch lasts more than the one that was in the pressure line (a year or two is no good reliability).

Working around the master cylinder and air pack I find that stubby wrenches are a big help. So, I broke down and bought a set that will get painted to match the truck and added to the tool box in the truck.
Wrenches like that are usually chrome (but maybe your set isn't); how are you going to paint those?
 

brianp454

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Location
Portland, OR
It’s funny you mention that as I did think about it. There’s a difference between cosmetic (old school bumpers, tools, chips easily, thick, bright and shiny) and industrial chrome (binds very well, matt finish, very durable, super corrosion resistance, similar to galvanizing (matte) in appearance) plating. It’s been years since I’ve spec’d out parts for that sort of thing. Painting the cosmetic chrome is a waste of time as it wears off quick (no binding). I found a little Stanley set at Lowe’s that’s kinda matte and rough on the surface. I’m hoping with some etching primer the paint will stick. If nothing else it will clearly show that they belong in the truck’s tool box. They will not see heavy duty as the long wrenches will be used for that. These will be used for the truck’s tool box (roadside emergency) and the occasion I need a shorty on the truck. The paint should hold up with that sort of demand. Did I answer your question?
 

Aussie Bloke

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Lost, out bush in OZ
G'day everyone,....


Went to pick up my Deuce from storage this morning but the weather has turned bad and now looks mike rain all weekend.
So now I cannot continue with the small maintenance items I was going to deal with.

On the bright side I did pick up the 60ltr drum of engine oil with extra zinc.
Now just need a clear weekend with no rain.



Aussie.
 

Aussie Bloke

Well-known member
725
373
63
Location
Lost, out bush in OZ
G'day everyone,....


Went to pick up my Deuce from storage this morning but the weather has turned bad and now looks like rain all weekend.
So now I cannot continue with the small maintenance items I was going to deal with.

On the bright side I did pick up the 60ltr drum of engine oil with extra zinc.
Now just need a clear weekend with no rain.



Aussie.
 

Tracer

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Location
Hawthorne, NV.
Preparing to install a pair of Monroe 34787 shocks on the front of the Deuce. I have been told this will give me some more front tire life. Then a Monroe 66104 shock for my drivers front seat. And then were off for a trip to Pleasanton CA and the MVPA Convention.
 

rumplecat

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Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
North West Arkansas
Found a bed, bows,vinyl top, all the mud flaps and mounts, spare tire mount, pioneer tool rack and mounting brackets as well as two sets of troop seats at a great price. If you are near South East Oklahoma and need a bed let me know, he has a couple of more!IMG_2048.jpgIMG_2047.jpgIMG_2046.jpg
 
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