Eliteweapons
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I have one where they took the muffler out and dropped the top pipe down. So I can imagine the sound. It's loud and I will be glad to get a muffler back on it. I take it you capped the small "self cleaning" pipe coming from the intake.View attachment 634691View attachment 634692
I added a Jones (Aero) Turbine resonated muffler to my A3. I welded flanges on the new muffler so I could keep it original if I wanted to reinstall the old one it would be an easy swap. I haven't put the guard back on in these pictures but it is much quieter and has a great tone to it.
I made a temporary 1 1/2" vinyl cap for that self cleaning 90 until I can find something that fits and looks better. It is alot quieter now. I can have a conversation in the truck now without screaming. Of course the engine noise I can still hear, but I am going to use some Lizard Skin and other sound proofing to help reduce that next.I have one where they took the muffler out and dropped the top pipe down. So I can imagine the sound. It's loud and I will be glad to get a muffler back on it. I take it you capped the small "self cleaning" pipe coming from the intake.
I use a spark arrester on my 931 so if I go into a woodlot/forest, I'm legal.
Eastern had 2 A3 OEM mufflers on ebay and I bought one...just need the mount and guard now...which I may be forced to fabricate.
I used "DynaMat" and the butyl rubber will not allow any moisture underneath it. It has an Aluminum backing which is pretty tough. I plan on installing a rubber floor mat later but the DynaMat provides excellent noise reduction and prevents heat transfer. The only problem with DynaMat is the cost. To do the whole cab cost $600.00 . If your just trying to provide water and corrosion protection I would clean the floors removing all rust and use a good primer like Rustoleum . Then use "Herculiner" bed liner to coat the floor. I used this on my CUCV over 15 years ago and it still is working great !EW, I bought 2 A3's, one to (hopefully) keep and the other to fix up and resell. One of them had rubber mats in the cab, which I promptly took out, cleaned and set aside. They will go back in, but trimmed to be removable. One of my trucks has to have the tranny replaced, so taking the seats out made doing a floor re-hab timely.
I've never used Lizard Skin, but it sounds like bed-liner. I'm considering using bed liner after some more rust treatment with scraping and red primer.
If you don't have floor mats EW, the rubber mats one can get at a farm supply would seem to be a good choice. So would wide rubber belting. Rustystud had some good pictures of an adhesive backed rubber product he applied (he put a lot of effort into cut and fit) to the entire cab, but it left me wondering if water ever did get behind it, would it be trapped. That seems to be the problem of mats.
Post pictures when you can to keep the natives happy. I can't seem to get them from camera to SS.
Hey, theeDIZ; I bet it was hot inside that box today:Test fit my shower pan and a/c unit. It was way to hot to do anything inside the box today! Also picked up a 32in tv to mount soon.
Wrenches like that are usually chrome (but maybe your set isn't); how are you going to paint those?I installed the brake switch upgrade kit from Erik’s. Glad to have working brake lights again. Hope this switch lasts more than the one that was in the pressure line (a year or two is no good reliability).
Working around the master cylinder and air pack I find that stubby wrenches are a big help. So, I broke down and bought a set that will get painted to match the truck and added to the tool box in the truck.
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