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What did you do to your deuce this week?

Aussie Bloke

Aussie Bloke

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G'day everyone,....


Just spent the last 2 hrs working on my Deuce.

Put the fully charged batts in and a new batt cable to connect the two.

Hit the start button and still get 'Click!'

I'm thinking the starter relay?

The positive cable that comes up the firewall to the relay is laying against the exhaust flex pipe, there is no burning or wear showing, I think I will just secure it away from the exhaust pipe but looks a little loose where it connects to the relay.

I am hoping that is my problem.

Looks like next week should tell.

sigh,.....
:(




Aussie.
 
T

texas30cal

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I know, but I already tried the tm's way, so I'm doing it the old fashioned way as I've read others have had to do as well. My new seals are identical to old ones, and I re used one original as a control, that hub is hot now as well.
 
Last edited:
Tracer

Tracer

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frank8003 said:
Been over 14 hours
surprised there is no comment on the statement
"readjust all the bearings tomorrow leaving the smallest amount of slack possible"
Click to expand...
I didn't comment on this problem out of concern that my response would cause confusion. I thought someone with more experience with this type of problem would chip in and frank8003 did. So my story. When I replaced all the rear axle seals on my deuce, I followed the TMs and re-packed the bearings, installed new seals, and had 2 hubs that ran hot. When I disassembled and re checked the 2 hubs everything looked normal, so I again reassembled both hubs per the TMs, and again the hubs ran hot. So I backed off on the lock nuts one or two flats, and reassembled. Again they ran hot. Not quite as hot as before, but still hot. So I again disassembled both hubs and figured I'd take a closer look at the bearings. The races and rollers looked fine. Then I noticed that the bearings were not Timken's, they were German FAG bearings inners and outers, on both hot running hubs. Now all 4 hubs ran cool before I disassembled them. At this point I'm about ready to order 2 new sets of Timken inner and outer rear axle bearings. Anyways I thought I'd give it one last try with the FAG bearings. I re assembled both hubs again per the TMs, except I backed off on the locking nuts till I had a hint of movement in the hub. Then I tightened the locking nuts a flat at a time till the movement disappeared. Test drove the truck and the 2 hot hubs ran a normal temp. same as the other 2. Did the FAG bearings cause the problem? I can't say, but I just ran the truck on a 750mi. trip with no problems with the rear axle hubs running hot. Hope this helps. My 2cents
 
T

texas30cal

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I think I read your post about that before, I've been doing a lot of reading on the subject. In my case I know it's not the seals, and the front hubs never ran hot before, although the rears have since I got it and have not been touched since it left the base in San Antonio (they are next in line).I didn't mix bearings up from left to right, and they are all timken. I just jacked it up and am going to reset them now.
 
rustystud

rustystud

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Tracer said:
I didn't comment on this problem out of concern that my response would cause confusion. I thought someone with more experience with this type of problem would chip in and frank8003 did. So my story. When I replaced all the rear axle seals on my deuce, I followed the TMs and re-packed the bearings, installed new seals, and had 2 hubs that ran hot. When I disassembled and re checked the 2 hubs everything looked normal, so I again reassembled both hubs per the TMs, and again the hubs ran hot. So I backed off on the lock nuts one or two flats, and reassembled. Again they ran hot. Not quite as hot as before, but still hot. So I again disassembled both hubs and figured I'd take a closer look at the bearings. The races and rollers looked fine. Then I noticed that the bearings were not Timken's, they were German FAG bearings inners and outers, on both hot running hubs. Now all 4 hubs ran cool before I disassembled them. At this point I'm about ready to order 2 new sets of Timken inner and outer rear axle bearings. Anyways I thought I'd give it one last try with the FAG bearings. I re assembled both hubs again per the TMs, except I backed off on the locking nuts till I had a hint of movement in the hub. Then I tightened the locking nuts a flat at a time till the movement disappeared. Test drove the truck and the 2 hot hubs ran a normal temp. same as the other 2. Did the FAG bearings cause the problem? I can't say, but I just ran the truck on a 750mi. trip with no problems with the rear axle hubs running hot. Hope this helps. My 2cents
Click to expand...
It's not the bearings, it's the adjustment. Tapered roller bearings need room to expand when hot. If they have "preload" on them they get to much pressure when they get hot. Thus causing more heat. Our busses run with up to 0.005" of clearance in them. I personally like to run 0.002" clearance. Remember these bearings are larger then your cars bearings and expand more.
 
rustystud

rustystud

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Another Ahab said:
View attachment 680273
Click to expand...
Your not joking there !!! In the mornings I can barely move. It takes about 30 to 45 minutes each day to get me up to speed and be able to move about. Now if I set and just watch TV in the morning I can barely reach the bathroom by myself ! Also the pain gets to be unbearable. Yes it hurts to move, but it hurts so much more if I don't move !
As long as I'm moving they won't be putting me in a grave ! They have to catch me first !
 
nchittendon

nchittendon

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Although slow going, I made some progress on the hub flip friday. Hope to have more done this week. The write up on XM says "easy job with simple hand tools." Ha, bite me. Not a "hard" job, but you need more than simple hand tools.

18423895_10158925457575657_4847695578514042155_n.jpg
 
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