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What did you do to your deuce this week?

Caseymikl

Member
198
1
18
Location
Fort piece Florida
You know you have a mans truck when you need scaffolding to work on it!! I tend to stand on the fenders when I work on mine. On other end, should be picking a new hood up for it soon. Then will be getting a new roof and all new windows for it. Then some fluids changed and should be good.


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Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
333
262
63
Location
Denver, Colorado
I got frustrated again with whoever it was that thought outfitting deuce radiators with rust-prone and clog-prone steel vent lines was a good idea. Snaked every inch of it out (again) with a gun cleaning rod & bore-brush, spray gun tip-cleaning brushes, and wire cables. Got my cooling system flushed out to where the coolant is transparent and pristine, and I hate it when I see good coolant getting "burped" out the cap. If that line blocks up tight again, I'm gonna hack all but a few inches off by the neck, and replace it with flexible tubing. At least then I'll only have a few inches of corrosion to clear out. :mad:
 
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gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
751
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
G'day everyone,....



How'd you go changing out the lower radiator hose?

I still have to finish doing mine.

Aussie.
I use a .25x2(maybe 3) inch flat bar about 2ft long.
Remove band clamps, push in center of hose, it'll come off.
I then install the top of the hose and put on clamp. Push the bar in the center of the hose again, guide it on the lower radiator, install bottom clamp.
 

DavidWymore

Well-known member
1,598
164
63
Location
El Centro, CA
Soldered up the casing/shroud on my radiator a while back and have more leaks springing up now where the tubes meet the core. These radiators get to a point where it's not worth messing with?
 

Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
333
262
63
Location
Denver, Colorado
I believe I got lucky in that respect... my radiator itself is in great shape. When I got the truck, the hoses were all cracked, the heater didn't heat, and I flushed and back-flushed gallon after gallon of what looked like orange-brown latex paint out of the block and heater core. But after 2 rounds of prestone flush and a jillion gallons of distilled water, the inside of the radiator is very clean and bright, the coolant looks like it's right out of the jug, and now the in-cab heater actually works very well. Got all new hoses and radiator cap, thermostat tested out good... That **** vent line is the only thing I keep having to revisit cooling system-wise.
 
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Aussie Bloke

Well-known member
725
373
63
Location
Lost, out bush in OZ
G'day everyone,.....



I use a .25x2(maybe 3) inch flat bar about 2ft long.
Remove band clamps, push in center of hose, it'll come off.
I then install the top of the hose and put on clamp. Push the bar in the center of the hose again, guide it on the lower radiator, install bottom clamp.
Sounds good to me,...

Right now my poor Deuce is sitting in storage with the lower hose removed just waiting for me to put the new hose ON.

I ran out of time last time I worked on the Deuce and have been side tracked with other isues since.

Its now been about 6-8 months since I saw my Deuce last.

Then I just need to replace the starter relay and go have some fun,.....

(After filling with coolant first of course!)


Aussie.
 

winfred

Member
358
9
18
Location
port allen la
yep for roll and swivel, was $80 plus tax https://www.lowes.com/pd/Metaltech-3-8-ft-x-23-in-Rolling-500-lbs-Steel-Portable-Scaffold/3915158 theres a couple slightly different ones around at the various home centers, nice and stable even with large ass on it

Winfred, I like the scaffold set up. Do the wheels lock??
haven't put it back together yet but i reached up from the bottom to do the clamp with a ratchet and worked the hose loose with a prybar

G'day everyone,....

How'd you go changing out the lower radiator hose?

I still have to finish doing mine.

Aussie.
 
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M35A2 KAISER

Member
84
0
6
Location
WICHITA/KANSAS
I removed the radiator due to a leak where the tubes meet the tank at the bottom. Radiator shop said it was unreasonable to try and fix. So i started with new belts and a couple now howes then cleaned the top of the lower radiator tank with muradic acid till i had clean metal no paint. Next i mixed clear casting resin and filled the lip or tray where the tubes meet the tank. Tested after 36 hours with an old motorcycle tube attached to the inlet and outlet, and a bottle of windexl looks like it might work at least for a while. Installed in the truck and ran a couple of heat cycles still no leak. Will cross my fingers and keep my eyes open for a spare.


View attachment 630305View attachment 630306View attachment 630307View attachment 630308View attachment 630309
Updated I did this temp fix almost 2 years ago and it is still holding strong and does not leak.
 

cattlerepairman

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,247
3,325
113
Location
NORTH (Canada)
Soldered up the casing/shroud on my radiator a while back and have more leaks springing up now where the tubes meet the core. These radiators get to a point where it's not worth messing with?
Mine was leaking when I got the truck and it had been repaired several times (badly). I had it re-cored at a radiator shop and it was less expensive than what I had feared. They boiled out the rest and fixed a couple of pinholes. I got the rad back clean and freshly painted. Going strong since 2009 now.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,254
2,938
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Mine was leaking when I got the truck and it had been repaired several times (badly). I had it re-cored at a radiator shop and it was less expensive than what I had feared. They boiled out the rest and fixed a couple of pinholes. I got the rad back clean and freshly painted. Going strong since 2009 now.
That's the way to do it correctly. There are several standard radiator cores that will fit the deuce. You just need the top and bottom housing. I worked a summer at a radiator repair shop in Phoenix AZ when I was going to trade school. It is amazing what a good radiator man can do !
 

DavidWymore

Well-known member
1,598
164
63
Location
El Centro, CA
That's the way to do it correctly. There are several standard radiator cores that will fit the deuce. You just need the top and bottom housing. I worked a summer at a radiator repair shop in Phoenix AZ when I was going to trade school. It is amazing what a good radiator man can do !
Sounds like I need to find a good shop. There are none within a couple hours, I don't think.
 

Tracer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
6,543
13,912
113
Location
Hawthorne, NV.
Sounds like I need to find a good shop. There are none within a couple hours, I don't think.
Dave I've had several radiators done over the years at Harbor Radiator in Costa Mesa CA. They did my Deuce radiator about 4 years ago and I've had no problems, and their prices are reasonable. They have been at the same location for decades.
 

winfred

Member
358
9
18
Location
port allen la
nearly done servicing the belts and cooling system/installing ac compressor, the brackets in the waterloo kit work fine but the hardwear is nearly useless at least on my truck, half of the bolts were too long or too short and if i spaced it as directed the belt alignment would've been way wrong, plus the fan hits the compressor as it is without it as far forward as designed.
spaced the fan out a little and put a little wiggle in the trailing edge of the blades to clear the nut/shaft of the compressor, got shafted on the upper radiator hose in the set i got around a year ago too, final insult i only had 2 gallons of coolant handy out of the case i didn't realize i used most of, cut down the original lower hose to serve as a upper till i can get one.
snapped a pic of the elusive block drain location that i noticed during searching seems to escape many
IMG_5635.jpgIMG_5633.jpgIMG_5632.jpgIMG_5631.jpgIMG_5629.jpgIMG_5627.jpg
 
718
9
18
Location
Springfield Or
I would be concerned about how little belt wrap you have on the alternator. The belts will slip when under a heavy load. I went with a single belt compressor so I could keep one belt in the factory location witch is about one third wrap on the alternator. You are at less than 25% contact. You could run the compressor with just one belt and run one belt in the factory position. Crank, water pump and Alternator. If the truck is rarely driven I would not worry about it.
 

winfred

Member
358
9
18
Location
port allen la
yea im aware of the limited belt wrap and plan on keeping an eye on it, waterloo claims it works with these green gates belts so ill give it a chance. got it filled up, burped, test driven and its all happy and not pissing on the ground so im happy, got 7.5 gallons in so i must've had it just about empty as 32qt is supposed to be total. think i might adjust/check the valves before i head to MS for the trail ride, if this engine is as fresh as fuzzytoasters research said it is it is at little over 1100 miles and 535 hours, i got it at 380 miles and 507 and the clocks may've gone in with the engine as the whole truck was supposed to have been rebuilt after 9/11 and put into stand by, a check is probably a good idea, fun thing is i have a set of lds intake rockers but im not ready to install them as i wanna try and gather as much data as i can to compare before and after
 

montaillou

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
806
830
93
Location
W.WA
Cue the Rolling Stones...

20180421_162903.jpg20180421_163610.jpg

The streaks on the tires in the second pic is because it started to rain during the painting. Stupid 10% chance of rain...
 

Caseymikl

Member
198
1
18
Location
Fort piece Florida
What pressure gauge is electric, and what one has a hard line going to it? The electric one when starts pegs at 60. And the one with the hard line is stuck in the middle and won’t move. The working one is labeled air and the other is oil. But I’m not sure if that’s what they really are


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