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What did you do to your deuce this week?

rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Sunday I got rid of an old pick up truck and had to move my Bronco (not running) into the spot the pick up came out of. I towed it back as far as I could with the Deuce then positioned the Deuce behind the obstacle that the Bronco had to be pulled up against and used the winch to pull it back the rest of the way. I should have taken pictures of the process but this is all I got.

View attachment 715054

Yesterday I had to drive it about 20 miles away, my daily driver is in the shop. It was great until the drive home in sleet / snow mix. I was really hoping to be home before the weather came in. This was my first time driving it in bad weather. I really wasn't trusting the NDTs for the conditions but I made it home okay.
Everyone "PooPoos" the NDT tires. I've found them to be pretty good in all weather. Not "excellent" but good. That was the whole reason for them in the first place. They are a good all around tire. Out here in the rainy Northwest they could use some "sipping" for all the water on the road, but they still work OK.
 

Valence

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Davis County, UT
How's your brake fluid? That is typically the sign of a leaking wheel cylinder-not good to lose brakes...
I agree that looks like brake fluid to me too.
I've found when (and thus it is my opinion) that brake fluid, DOT 5 at least, tends to spread out more sideways on the tire sidewall, or even climb the rubber a bit while gear oil will just run straight down like that. I serviced all my axles on my deuce and within 1 year I had to re-do all 4 rear axle ends as I had botched the keyway cork seal. I had tried to make my own cork seal. In the re-re-do work I used nice cork pieces that I purchased from Big Mike's Motorpool. I have learned that the cork pieces I cut were far too thin. Big Mike's were much thicker and they had to be squished and pressed down under the outer bearing tightly into the keyway (which I still added RTV silicon for good measure).
 

URSATDX

Member
138
19
18
Location
So Jersey, NJ
I replaced and rerouted the exhaust air line from the air assist steering to the intake.
All parts were from the local big box store.
Not sure what they were thinking with the OEM? hose.
Changed both belts. The V belt was tricky. The Serp was very EZ. The fan clutch fitting was not fun.
The clutch locked up after the fitting was reinstalled. Had to start it for it to spin free, boy was I happy.
Deleting the CTIS system 1 wheel at a time.
 

Attachments

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rustystud

Well-known member
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Location
Woodinville, Washington
Deleting the CTIS system 1 wheel at a time.
It's a shame that this system doesn't work as well as it should. It gives the truck great advantages when out in the boonies. I've often wondered if all the seals where replaced with "silicone" seals if that wouldn't help. Either that or heavy duty "Viton" seals. Just thinking out load.
 

Wolfgang the Gray

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
New River, AZ
How's your brake fluid? That is typically the sign of a leaking wheel cylinder-not good to lose brakes...
Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
Drake fluid level holding steady in the remote reservoir. I had this same issue with the front wheels & it looked like old grease had melted. The brake cylinders were fine. I'l check for whatever the problem is though.
IMAG6874.jpg
 

nchittendon

Active member
544
28
28
Location
La Crosse, Wisconsin
Pretty sure I broke something today. That's what I did to my deuce.

It's been sitting for about a month due to me doing a civilian brake light upgrade. Went to take her out today to pick the boys up from school.

notes:
1) the park brake always gives me issues in the cold.
2) this summer I did an overhaul/hub flip on the rear axles. Total inspection/lube. Have not done the fronts yet.
3) sat with the park brake on for about a month. In wisconsin it's been freezing temps, and a lot of moisture.

As fought to release the park brake (as I always do in the winter), I got it released. I think. Put the truck in reverse, and it wouldn't budge. Put it in first gear, and it rolled free. Tried reverse again, and it rolled free finally. Still thinking park brake at this point.

Got on the road, and started rolling. I hear a noise that I've never heard before. Sounded like a bolt or something rattling around in a steel bowl. A bowl that resonated. It's a rotation sound, while driving. The engine sounds and feels great. The tranny shifts and feels great. I'm HOPING it's the park brake. But something deep down inside is telling me there is something rolling around in my brake drum.

She's telling me it's time for a front end service I think. Which, I know it is. Crap.
 

URSATDX

Member
138
19
18
Location
So Jersey, NJ
Issues with my Tach since I bought the truck. Seemed accurate at low RPMs but would pin at higher revs.

Removed the tach sensor from the flywheel casing. It's pretty tight access. Removed the ether delivery assembly and the harness bands to free the wires from the sensor.
Locking nut was not too bad but the sensor is quite long and trying to turn it with a small wrench and my fingers it took a while to get it out. (20 degrees outside)
The magnetic end was covered in metal shards and shavings. Cleaned it well and a little CLP on the unit and back at it. It seems as though it solved my tach issues.
Smooth steady RPMs and no jump to pin the gauge. Still need to get my recently resealed wheel back on to see what RPMs I'm turning and at what speeds.

With an hour left of daylight I tried to troubleshoot my lack of low air light/buzzer. The light bulb housing shows power with a test light when the pressure is low and
goes out, as it should, when pressure rises but the bulb will not come on and no audible alarm. The bulb is an LED and works fine when installed in the
high beam bulb socket. I even switched the socket assemblies and same thing, no light. The low pressure switch is working, getting power to the center of the plug but no light.
Thinking ground issue but doesn't the socket assembly provide the ground for the light? There is only 1 wire coming in.
Any thoughts from the crew here would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks again.
 
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Menaces Nemesis

"Little Black Truck" Conservator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Denver, Colorado
Pretty sure I broke something today. That's what I did to my deuce.

It's been sitting for about a month due to me doing a civilian brake light upgrade. Went to take her out today to pick the boys up from school.

notes:
1) the park brake always gives me issues in the cold.
2) this summer I did an overhaul/hub flip on the rear axles. Total inspection/lube. Have not done the fronts yet.
3) sat with the park brake on for about a month. In wisconsin it's been freezing temps, and a lot of moisture.

As fought to release the park brake (as I always do in the winter), I got it released. I think. Put the truck in reverse, and it wouldn't budge. Put it in first gear, and it rolled free. Tried reverse again, and it rolled free finally. Still thinking park brake at this point.

Got on the road, and started rolling. I hear a noise that I've never heard before. Sounded like a bolt or something rattling around in a steel bowl. A bowl that resonated. It's a rotation sound, while driving. The engine sounds and feels great. The tranny shifts and feels great. I'm HOPING it's the park brake. But something deep down inside is telling me there is something rolling around in my brake drum.

She's telling me it's time for a front end service I think. Which, I know it is. Crap.
I'm not sure the park brake drums are milled to be perfectly round sometimes... I've had a return spring snap on the park brake, or the mustache spring cam pin has needed adjustment, allowing a shoe to rattle and "bounce" a bit on the drum while driving. Those things have caused a noise like you're describing. Or, maybe, one of the shoes is just stuck close to the drum and not releasing on the pivots.
Park Brake; http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2320-209-20-3-2.pdf chapter 13, Park Brake Adjustment; pages 13-43 to 13-47
 
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tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
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Location
IN
I'm not sure the park brake drums are milled to be perfectly round sometimes... I've had a return spring snap on the park brake, or the mustache spring cam pin needs adjustment, allowing a shoe to rattle and "bounce" a bit on the drum while driving. Those things have caused a noise like you're describing. Or, maybe, one of the shoes is just stuck close to the drum and not releasing on the pivots.
I had a similar noise in an 817. I was entirely wrong on diagnosis as wheel bearings and even went so far as to round up a full set to do a rebuild, when a friend helped to disconnect the driveshafts and run it in place. We saw the emergency brake hanging up like it was out of round and the faster we went, the worse it got. Then we focused on the 1/8" movement of the drum up and down...bearings at the TC output. Oh shi+.

I bought the truck as a non-runner and had it running fine. The TC was brown, unlike the rest of the truck and it looked nearly new. We took it out and found all three shafts bearings had simply never been set. The TC was new (or a really good rebuild). This problem probably contributed to the low miles. All of the bearings, gears and even seals still looked new. It took me 5 times apart and back together and then final shimming of the shafts, but I'm confident that TC is (like new). Sounds gone and many problems solved with emergency brake.
 
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kml9705

Member
78
0
6
Location
Andover, NJ
Everyone "PooPoos" the NDT tires. I've found them to be pretty good in all weather. Not "excellent" but good. That was the whole reason for them in the first place. They are a good all around tire. Out here in the rainy Northwest they could use some "sipping" for all the water on the road, but they still work OK.
Rusty, any suggestions on how to do the "sipping"?
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,297
3,070
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
Rusty, any suggestions on how to do the "sipping"?
There was someone here who actually did a fantastic job of modifying his NDT tires. It was a few years back so it would take a bit of searching. There are plenty of "videos" out there on doing this though. You will need to buy your own sipping tool. They can get pretty pricey for the pro models, though there are cheap ones out there too.
 

nchittendon

Active member
544
28
28
Location
La Crosse, Wisconsin
Everyone "PooPoos" the NDT tires. I've found them to be pretty good in all weather. Not "excellent" but good. That was the whole reason for them in the first place. They are a good all around tire. Out here in the rainy Northwest they could use some "sipping" for all the water on the road, but they still work OK.
Man, I never "Poopoo" the NDT's. They are great for what they are, if driven properly. Anything but dry roads = air down!! Icy roads = stay home. They are like skates on ice. I ran my same exact tires for 3 winters in Wisconsin. First sign of snow, air down to 20psi. Then drive it like a big, heavy, cumbersome truck on snow and you're fine. For what they are, they work great.
 

nchittendon

Active member
544
28
28
Location
La Crosse, Wisconsin
I'm not sure the park brake drums are milled to be perfectly round sometimes... I've had a return spring snap on the park brake, or the mustache spring cam pin has needed adjustment, allowing a shoe to rattle and "bounce" a bit on the drum while driving. Those things have caused a noise like you're describing. Or, maybe, one of the shoes is just stuck close to the drum and not releasing on the pivots.
Park Brake; http://www.steelsoldiers.com/upload/M35/TM9-2320-209-20-3-2.pdf chapter 13, Park Brake Adjustment; pages 13-43 to 13-47
Got under it with small torch yesterday. Heated up all of the components of the park brake. To where I could move everything by hand. No more noise! Now, just to remember not to set the thing every time I stop somewhere (habit).
 

Kaiser67M715

Member
699
26
18
Location
NH
Got under it with small torch yesterday. Heated up all of the components of the park brake. To where I could move everything by hand. No more noise! Now, just to remember not to set the thing every time I stop somewhere (habit).
If I think it will be parked for more then a week, I chock the front tire, and a rear tire, and leave the parking brake released. I do leave in gear sometimes as well, but not if on a significant grade.

Sent from my SM-S920L using Tapatalk
 

Modiconman

Member
39
30
18
Location
Richmond, VA
I finally finished my winch rebuild. The previous owner had the truck stored outside and water had leaked into the winch. The bearings were rusted solid.
I rebuilt it using parts from Big Mike's Motor pool. He was great to work with (as so mentioned by everyone here!) For some reason my winch has an oddball sized PTO seal. Mike was able to find one for me. So I got it together and reinstalled it. It's really a 2 man job but i did it alone. Just a lot of trips back and forth from the loader to the truck making fine tuning adjustments to properly align it to fall into place. Now to get the cable back on it.
MOST DEFINITELY a 2 man job for safety reasons!20180120_142149 (Medium).jpg20180120_145420 (Medium).jpg
 

Tracer

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Hawthorne, NV.
DSCF1871.jpg With snow, rain and wind in the forecast, I decided to install my new cab cover. It's originally made as a nylon cover for quad runner vehicles. It also has an elastic band along the bottom so it stays put in the wind. When it snows and rains I usually have leaks around the side window frames and the soft top. So I hope this puts an end to the puddles of water on the cab floor after it rains. You can find them in different colors and sizes online. Just pick your color, measure your cab and order. Got the idea from our very own BigMike.
 

Maverick1701

Well-known member
1,433
181
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Location
Lubbock, TX
View attachment 716481 With snow, rain and wind in the forecast, I decided to install my new cab cover. It's originally made as a nylon cover for quad runner vehicles. It also has an elastic band along the bottom so it stays put in the wind. When it snows and rains I usually have leaks around the side window frames and the soft top. So I hope this puts an end to the puddles of water on the cab floor after it rains. You can find them in different colors and sizes online. Just pick your color, measure your cab and order. Got the idea from our very own BigMike.

Is that an intake of a 5-ton? Do you mind sharing some more pictures of your intake?
 

Tracer

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Location
Hawthorne, NV.
Is that an intake of a 5-ton? Do you mind sharing some more pictures of your intake?
DSCF1349.jpgDSCF1350.jpgDSCF1351.jpgDSCF1352.jpgDSCF1353.jpgDSCF1354.jpgDSCF1355.jpg I purchased this whole 5 Ton intake set up from C&C several years ago. You have to do some cutting and welding to shorten things up, as the 5 Ton is longer from the firewall forward. The flex hose is 4 1/2 In Dia., and there is a piece of (2 3/4 D X 1 1/4 W) hi temp hose on the intake end of the turbo that the shortened bellows hose fits over. The rest is pretty much straight forward. I now have about 4000+ miles on this set up with no problems. I made this modification to accommodate an LDS engine down the road. Hope this helps.
 
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