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Yes. I fixed the McMaster link for you. Have know idea why it gave wood and not woodruff.So, 1/8 x 5/8?
TY!
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Yes. I fixed the McMaster link for you. Have know idea why it gave wood and not woodruff.So, 1/8 x 5/8?
TY!
Dont use that switch in your transmission. The one I installed fried today (already) only putting 12v through it. Junk! I will be searching for a better one this evening.Got my backup alarm and lights mounted and wired. Got the 24v lights from gimpyrobb in early summer and the alarm from bay. The alarm is a multivoltage 12-48v Wolo model BA-107 (107dB). It cost $35. Got the transmission pressure switch from the same place as the alarm for less than $10. It is a motorcycle brake light switch. It has the same threads as needed and activated by pressure. View attachment 581940
Ran 12 ga. wire from one post on the switched side of the 12v/75 amp relay (I had given to me a few months back) to the lights and the alarm. View attachment 581945The other post on the switched side goes to the 24v source. Got my 24v source from wire 460-461 off the light switch, which I figured out thanks to The HUlk's post on brake light issues. I put a 15 amp blade type fuse within inches of the 24v connection at the light switch. View attachment 581944 The coil is what was necessary to run on 12v. Then for the 12v source, I ran a wire off the first battery's positive (using battery ground as the starting point) straight to the transmission switch. I knew this was a reliable way to get 12v because that is what BMY did to get the 12v source for the heater's low speed). I installed a 10 amp blade type fuse within inches of the battery post connection even before the wire could get near the battery bracket. The other post (blade) on the transmission switch I ran as the positive wire to go to the relay's coil (to activate the points inside that I am running 24v through). The relay's coil negative I just grounded to the dash. I just wire tied the relay to the bundle of wires already wire tied into a ball up under the dash before I got the truck. I think this is pretty safe as the two lights and the alarm sure arent using the 75 amps this relay is rated for, and having a fuse inline as near to each source of power as possible before a wire could even get near the ground. As long as the relay's coil is only getting 12v, plus the 12v transmission switch only getting 12v all should be well and last. One must be aware that a lot of relays aren't fully seperated inside as this heavy one I used is. So it is probably best to just get a 24v relay if you don't understand electicity so well.View attachment 581947View attachment 581948
Here's a short vid of the alarm.https://youtu.be/JL-1ia426PQ
If I ever installed a backup alarm, I would just wire it to a toggle switch on the dash.. Turn it on when you go to back up, and turn it off when you're done. Simple and effectiveFunny thing is back up alarm came on going forward down the road! Still on with engine off.
Sounds like you were having what I call a MTD or Monumental Task Day. It's when every simple or relatively easy task becomes 10x harder then it really needs to be, otherwise known as a monumental task.Ugh.
So, instead of fixing my exhaust leak, horn, and alternator, I spent 10 hours and ended up right where I started...ugh
Aint' it a B----!Sounds like you were having what I call a MTD or Monumental Task Day. It's when every simple or relatively easy task becomes 10x harder then it really needs to be, otherwise known as a monumental task.
Sorry man! Been there done that, several times.
Sounds like you have the same "luck" that I do! Everything I do takes about 20x's longer than it should!Ugh.
Pulled the alternator off...
Keyway on the pulley and shaft were toast.. used a bigger key and wedged it in there for short term fix..
Got the alternator back in...and promptly sheared a bolt on the regulator housing...tried soldering...no joy... tried drilling it out....no joy.....
Thinking I might just order a new ^#*! (/& alternator....
So, instead of fixing my exhaust leak, horn, and alternator, I spent 10 hours and ended up right where I started...ugh
I think it's actually just physics:Sounds like you have the same "luck" that I do! Everything I do takes about 20x's longer than it should!
I wouldn't really consider a 900 series an upgrade since you lose the multifuel capability. matter of preference I suppose.Posted mine for sale. Looking to upgrade to a 900 series.
I know what you're saying. For what I want an MV for a 900 series will work better for me I think. I think a cargo truck (923 or 925) will be my best option. I'm not too worried about the multifuel since I really don't have a way to clean and use WMO. I know there are other fuel options, but that would be the most readily available for me.I wouldn't really consider a 900 series an upgrade since you lose the multifuel capability. matter of preference I suppose.
That's what I would like is an A2. First thing I need to do though is get my M52 sold. It is a good truck, but I don't have the room for 2 at the house.A 900 series truck is a big upgrade.
Make sure you get an A2 big difference.
I second the A2 ideaThat's what I would like is an A2. First thing I need to do though is get my M52 sold. It is a good truck, but I don't have the room for 2 at the house.
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