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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Got my backup alarm and lights mounted and wired. Got the 24v lights from gimpyrobb in early summer and the alarm from bay. The alarm is a multivoltage 12-48v Wolo model BA-107 (107dB). It cost $35. Got the transmission pressure switch from the same place as the alarm for less than $10. It is a motorcycle brake light switch. It has the same threads as needed and activated by pressure. View attachment 581940
Ran 12 ga. wire from one post on the switched side of the 12v/75 amp relay (I had given to me a few months back) to the lights and the alarm. View attachment 581945The other post on the switched side goes to the 24v source. Got my 24v source from wire 460-461 off the light switch, which I figured out thanks to The HUlk's post on brake light issues. I put a 15 amp blade type fuse within inches of the 24v connection at the light switch. View attachment 581944 The coil is what was necessary to run on 12v. Then for the 12v source, I ran a wire off the first battery's positive (using battery ground as the starting point) straight to the transmission switch. I knew this was a reliable way to get 12v because that is what BMY did to get the 12v source for the heater's low speed). I installed a 10 amp blade type fuse within inches of the battery post connection even before the wire could get near the battery bracket. The other post (blade) on the transmission switch I ran as the positive wire to go to the relay's coil (to activate the points inside that I am running 24v through). The relay's coil negative I just grounded to the dash. I just wire tied the relay to the bundle of wires already wire tied into a ball up under the dash before I got the truck. I think this is pretty safe as the two lights and the alarm sure arent using the 75 amps this relay is rated for, and having a fuse inline as near to each source of power as possible before a wire could even get near the ground. As long as the relay's coil is only getting 12v, plus the 12v transmission switch only getting 12v all should be well and last. One must be aware that a lot of relays aren't fully seperated inside as this heavy one I used is. So it is probably best to just get a 24v relay if you don't understand electicity so well.View attachment 581947View attachment 581948

Here's a short vid of the alarm.https://youtu.be/JL-1ia426PQ
Dont use that switch in your transmission. The one I installed fried today (already) only putting 12v through it. Junk! I will be searching for a better one this evening.
 

NovacaineFix

Member
662
1
18
Location
San Diego, California
After an estimated 20 mile mountain trail ride last weekend, I finally was able to clean off the mud and dirt that was on the truck.
After washing it off a bit, I decided to drive her around town to dry her off and to run some errands at the same time.

I stopped at the Home Depot to drop off some returns from a job earlier in the week, pick up some dinner and then top off one of the tanks with some fresh diesel.

Everything went fine, but this is what was funny:

After coming out from picking up my dinner, I see 3 guys around the truck, 2 were on the steps looking and the 3rd was just looking all around the chassis. They were like little kids checking out a cool firetruck, how could I be upset.
They asked the usual questions, What year is it? How big is the engine? How does it run? and such.

I can't lie, I was laughing inside, cause I know that I would probably be one of those guys if it were some one else's truck.
I have to say, for my truck being practically farm fresh and no where near restored condition, it still gets the looks and several thumbs up while driving.

Got to love it
 

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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1,669
113
Location
Nova Laboratories, WA
Ugh.

Pulled the alternator off...

Keyway on the pulley and shaft were toast.. used a bigger key and wedged it in there for short term fix..

Got the alternator back in...and promptly sheared a bolt on the regulator housing...tried soldering...no joy... tried drilling it out....no joy.....

Thinking I might just order a new ^#*! (/& alternator....

So, instead of fixing my exhaust leak, horn, and alternator, I spent 10 hours and ended up right where I started...ugh
 

NovacaineFix

Member
662
1
18
Location
San Diego, California
Ugh.

So, instead of fixing my exhaust leak, horn, and alternator, I spent 10 hours and ended up right where I started...ugh
Sounds like you were having what I call a MTD or Monumental Task Day. It's when every simple or relatively easy task becomes 10x harder then it really needs to be, otherwise known as a monumental task.

Sorry man! Been there done that, several times.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,998
4,552
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Sounds like you were having what I call a MTD or Monumental Task Day. It's when every simple or relatively easy task becomes 10x harder then it really needs to be, otherwise known as a monumental task.

Sorry man! Been there done that, several times.
Aint' it a B----!

That's what drives me bananas when Momma hits that shrill tone, asking "Why can't you just fix the little this-or-that!???"

And I just don't have the energy to explain the MTD Syndrome to her. So she gives me the look and starts her mumbling....


Momma's Not Happy.jpg
 
Last edited:

tbar123

Member
691
24
18
Location
enon,oh
Ugh.

Pulled the alternator off...

Keyway on the pulley and shaft were toast.. used a bigger key and wedged it in there for short term fix..

Got the alternator back in...and promptly sheared a bolt on the regulator housing...tried soldering...no joy... tried drilling it out....no joy.....

Thinking I might just order a new ^#*! (/& alternator....

So, instead of fixing my exhaust leak, horn, and alternator, I spent 10 hours and ended up right where I started...ugh
Sounds like you have the same "luck" that I do! Everything I do takes about 20x's longer than it should!
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,998
4,552
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Sounds like you have the same "luck" that I do! Everything I do takes about 20x's longer than it should!
I think it's actually just physics:

- Like the Third Corollary of Murphy's Law.

And it's probably got a name even, like "Carlton's Corollary", or something.

It nails me ALL the time.
 

peacemkr

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
60
0
6
Location
Greenville/Florida
Picked up my new 1990 M923A2 2 weeks ago. So far locking door handles, keyed ignition switch, new air horns (real ones), cup holder, seat strap on rear double rifle holders, stocked storage with chain fall, chains, straps, air hose, tire changing stuff.
Waiting for the permanent tag and a few other toys.
Next is the Those Military Guys back up camera if I can figure out the wiring. No instructions came with the kit.
New rear pinion seals next week.
In the future: LED all around
Hard top
Bows & tarp
Relocate batteries
 

mdemars03

Member
254
0
16
Location
El Paso, Texas
I wouldn't really consider a 900 series an upgrade since you lose the multifuel capability. matter of preference I suppose.
I know what you're saying. For what I want an MV for a 900 series will work better for me I think. I think a cargo truck (923 or 925) will be my best option. I'm not too worried about the multifuel since I really don't have a way to clean and use WMO. I know there are other fuel options, but that would be the most readily available for me.
 

Andyrv6av8r

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,200
457
83
Location
Spartanburg,SC
I rebuilt the PCB box, reinstalled the original 4 Hawker batteries after recharging and adjusted my governer to get the CTIS to work.
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Got my fire extinguisher inspected and tagged so it is up to date, per DOT regs. Finally got USDOT and PUCO numbers. Will be stencilling them on within the next couple days and then truck will be ready for DOT inspection.

I agree too with the A2 series. Nice to know that if you pick up a nail you still don't go flat.
 
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