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What have you done to your 5 ton this week?

azteclizard

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Yuma, AZ
You will hurt yourself in the long run. Part of operating heavy equipment/big trucks is the ability to maintain them, that may take a certain investment in tooling and support equipment. The payback in acquiring the right tools for the job is directly proportional to time saved and wear and tear on your body.
Meh.. im still young.. in fact working and bobbing the truck all MANually has helped me stay in shape.. im only 40.

But id still rather not break the seal on those rims if i can just trade the entire setup for what i need.. those Orings can be a PITA sometime and i just would rather not deal with it.
 

simp5782

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I picked up 5000# of landscape rock today for our fire pit area. The truck rides so much better with a little weight on it.

Indeed they do. I have a friend that says his rides rough in the rear. I just want to scream at him. It's a cargo truck with NO CARGO in it. Not a dang Cadillac.
 

fuzzytoaster

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Got in the batch of 4 M813s this week, unloaded the last two which were Marine M813A1s. The big one has all the trimmings: PTO, heater, deep water fording kit, and maybe..lockers (no sticker on dash seen). Both wanted to fire up with a push start and had brakes! Win!
 

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Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
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Well...the hard top is done and the windows can be rolled up now. I've found I can't stand body work though. Trying to make everything line up and cooperate with each other really tested my patience. First, the doors had to move forward, then the windows had to be squared, then the windshield had to he adjusted, then the doors had to to be lined up again and on and on...

I must say I'm glad I got one. It was worth all the swearing and my balance is now impeccable after standing on the little steps for hours on end. :mrgreen:

I had read several threads on moving the doors forward prior to doing this myself. Shimming them is tough since the inner bolts would need to be shimmed, but the dash overlaps the upper hinge. It seems most resort to bending the hinges. I couldn't get any of the pins to come out, and didn't want to go to the trouble of door removal, drilling the pins and all that, so I tried a different approach. I slid the top hinge out from behind the dash panel and placed it on top. The panel acted as the shim for the top hinge then I just shimmed the bottom. This worked well and brought the doors forward enough for the windows to clear the hard top.

20160804_014223.jpg

Mind if I ask where you got the top I want one and am debating making or NOS/Used. Some of the used I've seen are junky and pricey. But I want to close up some leaks and seal it up for better Wyoming performance, and hear a radio.
Sorry. I had seen your post and forgot to come back to it. I made a private deal with an Ebay seller for the hard top and some other items. I had to splurge a little to get exactly what I wanted but it'll all wash out in the end.
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Well...the hard top is done and the windows can be rolled up now. I've found I can't stand body work though. Trying to make everything line up and cooperate with each other really tested my patience. First, the doors had to move forward, then the windows had to be squared, then the windshield had to he adjusted, then the doors had to to be lined up again and on and on...

I must say I'm glad I got one. It was worth all the swearing and my balance is now impeccable after standing on the little steps for hours on end. :mrgreen:

I had read several threads on moving the doors forward prior to doing this myself. Shimming them is tough since the inner bolts would need to be shimmed, but the dash overlaps the upper hinge. It seems most resort to bending the hinges. I couldn't get any of the pins to come out, and didn't want to go to the trouble of door removal, drilling the pins and all that, so I tried a different approach. I slid the top hinge out from behind the dash panel and placed it on top. The panel acted as the shim for the top hinge then I just shimmed the bottom. This worked well and brought the doors forward enough for the windows to clear the hard top.

View attachment 637404



Sorry. I had seen your post and forgot to come back to it. I made a private deal with an Ebay seller for the hard top and some other items. I had to splurge a little to get exactly what I wanted but it'll all wash out in the end.
Talked me right out of it. I guess having the M929 I have a great advantage. I have a soft top and a hard top all at the same time!
 

Valence

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Davis County, UT
WYomer said:
Mind if I ask where you got the top I want one and am debating making or NOS/Used. Some of the used I've seen are junky and pricey. But I want to close up some leaks and seal it up for better Wyoming performance, and hear a radio.
I'm sure Boyce Equipment in Ogden, UT has them or can get them. You can also try PlanBSupply (also in UT) or the IdahoMotorPool in Fruitland, ID (IdahoMotorPool has fiberglass ones for $950, no shipping). Though hard tops are already pricy, and from those folks will run even more. IMO, out west here, expect $1,000 - $2,000 depending on condition. (Obviously you can probably get it cheaper from a private seller, but those are few around).

http://www.boyceequipment.com/
http://www.planbsupply.com/
http://www.idahomotorpool.com/

Castle Bravo and 98G move a lot of stuff down in Phoenix, AZ, but that's getting quite some distance from you. Ken Spencer (I don't know his SteelSoldier's handle, if he has one) who is often found on the Facebook M939, 5 Ton, Military Transportation, and Deuce and a half pages, often transports loads. If you're more in the eastern part of Wyoming, you may be able to buy something in the plentiful eastern US and have Ken transport it and you could catch up with him in one of his runs further west.
 
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Swamp Donkey

The Engineer
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Talked me right out of it. I guess having the M929 I have a great advantage. I have a soft top and a hard top all at the same time!
I ain't gonna lie. After the first two hours I was already working out how to get the hard top down and the soft top back up with less work. :mrgreen:

I'd love to have a headache rack like the M929s. I have entertained the idea of making one for my truck that could support people standing on it and offer protection when I'm in the woods. I fear it would change the look of the truck to something I'm not after since mine is a cargo truck. I've got to do something behind the cab though. I've aquired many more lights that need to go somewhere.
 

gottaluvit

Well-known member
Well, I drove mine to Chambersburg, PA today to pick up another M1082 trailer for rough work so as to not worry about keeping it all prettied up, like my other one. Only issue on the 184 mile treck was my speedometer cable backed out by the transfer case (fixed), and something came out of the top of my power steering reservoir. I suspect it to be a vent, but no fluid came out at all. Anyone here happen to know what screws in here?
View attachment 636938

Also, coming up some of those mountains in the Laurel Highlands I smelled very hot exhaust. Is this normal? My fuel isn't turned up for sure as empty it was downshifting to 2nd. I thought I lived in the hills in my part of Ohio. I stand corrected!
Got it home Wednesday evening before dark. The drive back through the Laurel Highlands with the extra weight was not exactly a drive in the park. It did same me a lot of money on a delivery. I was quoted $1000 dollars but used 75 gallons of diesel fuel and a $60 stay, plus two days of my time, doing it myself. The trailer had zero issues on the trek, and my speedometer did cut out twice but worked the majority of the time. Most of the steep uphills the truck downshifted to 2nd and since there was no way it could upshift to 3rd, I just let off the throttle and let it purr up the hills at 18 mph. By following the direction (law) of PENNDOT on the downhills, I had no brake fade or even (overly) hot brakes on the truck or trailer. I put it in 2nd gear every time the signs said to use a lower gear and maintain 20 mph. I would brake for a couple seconds bringing the speed down to 18 mph, and let off and let it go up to 23 before reapplying the brakes to bring it down to 18 again. I like the pullovers that trucks over 21,500# must stop at while going downhill to make sure you still have good brakes. This seems like a lot of thinking and learning from past accidents. Thumbs up to PENNDOT!
 

simp5782

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Took her to do a recovery to stretch her legs a little. uploadfromtaptalk1470429457495.jpguploadfromtaptalk1470429464662.jpg

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simp5782

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That's a lot of axles under that rig. I like the two-axle dolly you have under the front of that traler!
7axles and 22 tires total. Plus the 7 tires in the back of the truck. That setup pulled surprisingly well. I did not expect it, it pulled similar to a towbar on a 923.
 

simp5782

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I maintained a overall speed of 51mph over a 310mi period. This includes alot of hills and some stops to rest this was all GPS averaging. But yes she was a little heavy but I was well impressed as to how she pulled. uploadfromtaptalk1470431871239.jpg

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Smckerigan

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Location
Scottsbluff nebraska
Well I have always hated the OEM oil pressure gauge. My m925a2(8.3) truck was a camp dodge rebuild and the oil pressure reads 30 psi on start up and when warm its at zero. Put a manual gauge on it and now I feel better. It's running 75 psi on cold start up and 40 psi at after warming up.
 
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